Posted by: glenswatman | October 25, 2009

20091011-20 Peru

SUNDAY 11 October – Last night Sara told us how to get
out to the Lambayeque museum so we take a taxi, PS10 (£2.20) directly
there.  Now we realise that we went right
past it on the bus yesterday and had we know this we could have got off and stayed
in Lambayeque overnight.  The museum of
the royal tombs opens at 9am, PS10 (£2.20) and we are the first in.  The building has been shaped like one of the
tombs and inside we see many of the finds from the tombs and replicas of the
burial chambers.  It is quite different
from anything we have seen before and takes us almost an hour to get
around.  Catch a collective PS2.20 (49p)
each back to the city.  We keep thinking
it is full but the conductor leans out of the window touting for more business
until there are 17 of us jammed into the small mini bus.  Pick up our luggage then taxi PS2.50 (55p) to
the Linea bus station.  We make it just
on time to catch the 11am one to Trujillo, PS14 (£3.10) pp.  I am pretty tired but the landscape is so
interesting I don’t want to miss anything. 
It begins with flat desert that then becomes dotted with small grass
covered sand dunes.  The villages have
obviously appeared due to a water supply as they are surrounded by paddy
fields.  Other crops being grown are
tobacco, corn and sugar cane.  We’d been
told that not all buses are the same quality but so far in Peru they have all
been much the same and drivers have been very steady.  Arrive in Trujillo at 2.45pm and pick up
another taxi PS10 (£2.20) to take us out to Huanchaco beach resort where Matt
recommended Naylamp Hostal.  It is at the
northern end of the promenade so should be quieter.  We take a simple room around a courtyard in
the back and drop off our bags.  Many
locals are at the beach but it is a cold and windy day so they are either
sitting in their cars or out walking. 
The one thing we have never seen before is the reed canoes that the
local fishermen use.  It has a really
holiday feel and even has a pier.  We
check out a couple more hostals and book into the Ocean for tomorrow.  Their rooms are better than ours, have a TV
as well and are cheaper.  Walking back we
spot John & Sue in a bar.  They are
on an organised day tour and have 20 minutes here so the odds of us spotting
them were slim.  We talk to their tour
guide and book on for tomorrow.  We eat
at Naylamp then settle down for an early night.


PS50 (£11)


Monday 12 Oct. 09 – Trolley our bags along to Ocean
Hostal where the extremely friendly owner stores them.  A colectivo (micro bus) costs PS1.5 (33p) to
the edge of the city with the ubiquitous stops every few kilometres for the
conductor to dash from the bus to a machine to get a card stamped and then back
on – seems to be some sort of clocking on system.  Trujillo has some lovely colonial buildings
especially surrounding the main square. 
We are not sure what is happening there but lots of school groups are
there in uniform and with instruments. 
Making a quick tour of the highlighted sights doesn’t take too
long.  Yes there are some nice buildings
and churches but nothing that much different from what we have seen
elsewhere.  Call into the Linea office
and book our bus ticket to Lima for tomorrow morning leaving at 8.30am on the
direct bus, PS35 (£7.70).  They have
buses leaving almost every ½ hour in various categories from the economy right
up to VIP cama cama which has beds.  We
have opted for the cheapest comfortable one and the one the salesperson
recommended for tourists.  At Hostal
Colonial we pay for our tour, PS25 (£5.50) per person and at 11am board the
mini bus.  We head out to the edge of the
sandy desert where some temples have been discovered.  The Moche ruins from 400AD to 600AD include Huaca
Del Sol, the largest adobe temple in the Americas but its interior has yet to
be excavated.  Opposite is Huaca de la
Luna with excavations revealing the remains of a town between them.   PS11 (£2.40) gets you into Huaca de la Luna
and you must have a guide to go round which is one of the reasons we did a
tour.  Evers gives a great explanation of
how this ceremonial temple is actually 4 temples one on top of another in the
form of an inverse pyramid.  The first
temple was the smallest and when the king died the rooms were filled in with
adobe stones, a new surrounding wall made outside the existing one and a new
temple built on top.  Excavations have
shown that this happened 4 times but little survived of the top layer as the
desert sand and winds eroded it.  It is
easy to see the other layers with magnificent coloured wall carvings.  The whole set up reminds us much of Egypt and
although not as impressive it is better than we expected.  Back in the city the tour pauses at Sombrero
restaurant for lunch (not included).  It
may be a tourist restaurant but most of the diners are Peruvians.  They put on a dance show and also drag some
unsuspecting tourists up in “Generation Game” style to try and copy them.  The afternoon tour is to the Chan Chan
complex, PS11 (£2.40) for all parts of the site, except the museum is closed on
Mondays.  From 1100AD Huaca Arco Iris o
Dragon has been excavated and renovated so you can see the rainbow and dragon
wall carvings that give it the name.  Out
in the desert the Chan Chan palace of Nik An covers a huge area with
excavations revealing walls about 1 metre high. 
We are escorted round by an additional guide, Toby a dog that is of the
same breed that would have been here 1000 years ago – a hairless dog with big
pointed ears.  Chan Chan, the capital of
the Chimu Empire, is an area of around 20km with numerous palaces yet to be
excavated.  The tour ends at Huanchaco
beach where we peel off and head to our new room. 


PS30 (£6.60)


TUESDAY 13 October –
By 7.15am we are
on bus “H”, PS1.20 (27p) which takes us right to the Linea bus station arriving
just before 8am.  It is a fancy bus
station with free Wi-Fi, and as you board the bus there is a security camera
check and finger printing.  You have to
put your right “peter pointer” finger into the ink then print it on a plan of
the bus seats to show which seat you are in. 
The “directo” is a very comfortable bus, fewer seats than normal so more
legroom.  Set off at 8.45am heading out
into the desert.  Again near towns there
are farming areas and in one village we see a side street full of carrots
drying out.  There is a 40 minute stop
for lunch at a restaurant with reasonably priced meals but we didn’t know about
this so have already had a picnic on the bus but manage to fit in an ice cream
from the street stall.  In the afternoon
we ask the conductor if he can put English subtitles on with the movie so that
helps pass the time.  Nearing Lima the
scenery is stunning with steep sand hills dropping sharply into the ocean and
the road cut into the side of them.  We
reach the outskirts of Lima at ¼ to 5 but the traffic is terrible.  The population of the capital city is around
8m with half the people living in poor conditions and this is the area of the
city we reach first.  2-hours and about
30km later we reach the city centre bus depot. 
A total journey time of 10 hours instead of the 8 ½ quoted.  It is just about dark so we get ourselves
into a taxi, PS10 (£2.20) out to the Miraflores suburb where our host
lives.  It is less than 8km away but
takes the best part of an hour.  Mauricio
lives in the “Happy Home”, an old building he leases then sublets rooms.  At the moment he has 3 French people, a Welsh
girl and some Americans staying.  He has
been really kind and moved out of his en-suite room to give it to us.  It is on the roof top and a bit like a cabin
leading onto the roof terrace.  Miraflores
is the new suburb of town and very modern compared to the centre.  It is also a very safe area so we walk out to
Parque Kennedy and stop for a meal. 
There are a few things we want to do here but having seen how busy the
traffic is and how cold it is in the city we intend to try and get them all
done tomorrow so we can move on.



WEDNESDAY 14 October
There was a
short lull of traffic noise during the night but not for long.  All the vehicles hoot the minute there is a
car in front of them.  Road rules
definitely don’t apply here but when people cut across in front or cut in there
doesn’t seem to be any problem.  You
certainly have to drive with a view that anything can happen at the front or
the side of you at any time.  We take a
bus, PS1.20 (27p) to get near to the city centre then walk.  There are some very elaborate churches and
the main square is surrounded by beautiful buildings.  Nearby the San Francisco church has catacombs
and a combined ticket, PS10 (£2.20) gets us a tour of the monastery, museum and
catacombs where 70,000 people were buried. 
The bones have been dug up and placed by type in the shallow
graves.  There is a changing of the guard
at the Presidential Palace at 11.45 but few people gather to watch it making
the Police with riot shields look a bit silly. 
The guards have nice uniforms, there’s a band piping the old duty off
and new one on but they need a bit more co-ordination with their goose step
style marching.   In China town we get a good buffet at the
China Salon, PS26 (£5.70) then try to walk it off by cutting back across the
city towards the bus depot.  En route we
can’t resist ducking into the free bank museum (numismic, archaeological finds,
paintings and local wares) and death museum (a fancy coffin plus pictures and
paintings of cemeteries).  One of the
problems in Peru is that each bus company has a depot in a different part of
town so it is really difficult to compare buses and prices.  Cruz Del Sur is known to have one of the best
bus companies, and the most expensive, but their depot is easy to get to.  End up booking their coach to Nazca for
tomorrow morning, PS66 (£15).  We take a
bus out to Miraflores and get off near the beach area.  It surprises us to find we are on a cliff top
a hundred or so feet above the ocean. 
All along there is a promenade linking various parks.  If it weren’t so cold and windy I guess it
would be very pleasant.  One of the parks
is to commemorate love with a huge statue of a couple lying down kissing and a
long ceramic curving seat with the names of couples.  Further along is a park where people jump off
to paraglide, at PS150 (£33) I would be tempted were it not so flipping
cold.  Arrive back at the Happy Home just
before dark. 



THURSDAY 15 Oct. 09 – Up at 6.30am and take a taxi to the
bus station, PS8 (£1.80).  There is not
much traffic so we arrive early and manage to change to the 7am bus.  This time we get a hand baggage security
check boarding the bus then someone comes round with a video camera!  We can see what we are paying extra for, leg
rests, blankets, pillow, meals and internet. 
Well the Internet doesn’t work and the leg rests are not so comfortable
in the long term and the breakfast of an olive sandwich, a cheese roll and a
tart was no great shakes so maybe the cheaper buses are good enough for
us.  Heading south we pass many nice
looking beach resorts that we a/ wished we had known about and b/ had time to
check out.  Arriving in Nazca at 2pm we
are immediately assaulted by people at the bus station trying to sell us
flights over the famous Nazca lines, accommodation or other tours.  Last night Mauricio phoned up our
Couchsurfing host in Nazca to confirm arrangements and Javier volunteered to
meet us at the bus station at 2.30pm.  By
3pm there is no sign of him and his mobile phone is switched off.  Later his phone is on but not being answered
and by 4pm we figure something is wrong so check into The Walk On Inn.  The rooms are very basic but they are very
welcoming and the inn has everything a backpacker needs and more including a
small indoor swimming pool.  Walking
around Nazca we get lots of people trying to sell us tours or get us into their
restaurants but at least they accept our refusals.  Settle on a nice restaurant for our evening
meal but even there the Dutch waiter Ronald tries to sell us a flight and
tours.  At least he manages to offer us
the flight at $46 when everyone is selling it for $50 and the best previous
offer was $48pp.  We are ready to book
anyway so take him up on the deal for 7am tomorrow.  Catch a street parade of children and floats
whilst we are eating our meal.


PS50 (£11)


FRIDAY 16 Oct. 09 – We have had a bad night, having asked
for a quiet room at the back of the hostel we find there is a local house
beneath our window and they played loud music until after midnight.  Then from 4am onwards we were surrounded by cockerels
(or as Natasha would say cockroaches) crowing. 
Ronald meets us just before 7am, for our flight over the mysterious
Nazca lines, and takes us out to the airport. 
When we get there we realise he hasn’t actually booked us onto a flight
but is going from desk to desk to get a deal – in fact this is what we should
have done ourselves.  Anyway including
airport tax we pay PS150 (£33) each and go with Aero Palcazu taking off in a Cessna
C206 5-seater plane at 8am.  Our flight
takes us over more than a dozen figures and to make sure everyone gets a good
view the pilot circles over them clockwise then anti clockwise so steeply that
the wing is almost vertical to the ground. 
Each was drawn with one continuous line by dragging something over the
stones to reveal the lighter sand underneath. 
They are an amazing sight and you can clearly see the 110 metres monkey,
46 metres spider, lots of birds and other symbols.  The largest figure we see is the parrot at
200 metres long.  Our flight lasts 30
minutes and I half wish we had done the longer one.  Return to our room until check out time at
12.30.  Take a walk around town intending
visiting the museum but it is PS15 (£3.30) pp and we have no idea what it is or
if there is info in English so give it a miss. 
Pick up one of the “lucky dip” lunch deals at PS6 (£1.35) and get a nice
soup, good main meal and drink.  Spend
the rest of the afternoon by the swimming pool then in the lounge killing time
until our coach departure.   Arriving at
the Cial depot we hear our coach will not be leaving at 8pm as it will be late
arriving from Lima.  In fact we don’t
leave until 9.15pm but at least it is a nice coach much the same as the ones
used by Cruz del Sur but at PS100 (£22) rather than PS140 (£32).   It is
already dark but we can tell we are making a steep climb with lots of
switchbacks and nothing but sheer rock face ahead of us.  It is really slow progress made worse by
heavy fog.  The evening meal is cold rice
and chicken which we turn down to be given a small bread roll with jam and a
coke.  Although the coach set up is
similar to that on an aeroplane the food is definitely worse.  Watch a movie then settle down to try to
doze.  It is not easy as the bus sways
around the bends and we also stop 3 times with the drivers getting out and
walking round the coach which is a bit of a worry.



SATURDAY 17 October – Neither of us gets much sleep so are
glad when dawn breaks around 5am and we can enjoy the view.  We are now high up in the Andes but seem to
continue climbing or driving along valleys then making another climb over a
mountain range.  Many times we are
actually above the clouds and it quite spectacular.  Breakfast is a jam roll and coke followed by
a couple of movies.  We are more than
happy to arrive in Cusco at 1.15pm after our 15-hour journey.  Although we have tried to break the long
coach journeys up into smaller stretches in this instance there is no
choice.  We hop into a taxi to Ronald’s,
our Couchsurfing host.  As we reach the
area where he lives the road is closed for a big religious procession.  The taxi driver circles around and can’t seem
to find a way through at which point we hear a voice calling out to us in
English.  Ronald is chasing us up the
street, hops into the taxi and leads us to the nearest place to his home.  We get out and walk and Ronald immediately
throws Steve’s heavy rucksack on his back saying it is no trouble for him to
carry as he is a porter.  Ronald and his
brother Willie both work as tour guides, Willie a recently qualified official
one and Ronnie still unofficial.  They share
a flat and have a spare bedroom for guests. 
They offer us coca tea to help reduce the effects of altitude sickness (3500M)
and give us lots of information about the area. 
It seems that in Cusco they have packaged 16 tourist sites into one
ticket, a great idea but except it costs $45 (£30) whether you do 1 or all of
them (and this does not include Machu Picchu which is a further $40 (£27).  However Ronald convinces us it is the way to
go in conjunction with bus tours that take us to the sites.  He suggests we have a late nap which we are
happy to do and we are so weary and cold that we don’t even bother to
undress.  Reckon we must smell pretty
rank after our night on the bus but who cares? 
Apparently being weary is one of the effects of altitude sickness which
often seems like a hangover.  The other
thing we have both noticed which isn’t mentioned in the book is that we get
loads of crusty dry bogies up our noses! 
Early evening they suggest going out for a meal and we are joined by
their other Couchsurfing guest Kyle from America.  At the local restaurant we get soup, main
course and coffee for PS5 (£1.10) and it is not bad at all.  After a brief walk around the area and a view
of the city by night we are ready for bed.



SUNDAY 18 OCTOBER – We feel better after a good sleep and
a shower and ready to hit the town. 
Ronnie & Willie guide us down the hill dropping our laundry off en
route.  Arrive in the San Francisco
square with a nice church.  Next on the
agenda is breakfast up one of the side streets, P2.50 (55p).  It is similar to the lunch and evening menu
with full meals so I opt for fresh trout which comes, as always, with rice, a
slice of cucumber, one of tomato and a few raw onions.  Included in the price is a bread roll and
coffee so we can understand why the lads don’t bother to cook at home.  At the moment I am finding that I want to eat
food but only a little and would rather have a very small snack every couple of
hours.  I am sure we are eating too much
rice and bread but this is so often the tradition.  On our own we are trying to eat fruit and
yoghurt.  We want to buy our train
tickets to Machu Picchu (you can book on line and at the station find we cannot
get on the back packer train the day we want so have to delay until Wednesday
to go.  The price is $31 (£20) pp each
way for the 1-1/2hour journey from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.  The full journey is from Cusco but that is
more expensive and adds another 3-hour to cover a not very interesting part of
the line.  Top of the range is the Hiram
Bingham class with full silver service dinner at just $500 (£300) return.  Ronnie leads us through the town pointing out
interesting places and we are lucky to catch the army ceremony in the main
square.  The historical district of Cusco
is really nice.  We meet up with Kyle to
walk to the bus stop.  I hear a barking
dog and the next thing I know it is hanging off my calf.  I shout out and it runs away, Luckily I have
trousers on so only have a tiny puncture mark and cover It with hand sanitizer.  Tipon is about ¾ hour bus ride, PS1 (22p)
into the country.  It is Sunday so we are
going to have a traditional roast dinner and in Tipon this means roast guinea
pig.  The delicacy is much cheaper here
than in the city and cooked better. 
Ronnie & Willie select a restaurant where 1 whole guinea pig, jacket
potato, spaghetti and a stuffed pepper costs PS20 (£4.40).  I blank my mind to the fact that we have had
them as pets and first try the shoulder of guinea pig.  It is a black meat and very dry so I move
onto the leg which is a bit like chicken. 
I still think it is way over rated so pass my half over to Steve.  The lads demolish theirs leaving just a small
pile of bones on their plates.  Using the
jaw bones they then have fun creating funny sculptures; in fact the bird one is
really good!  In Tipon there is an archaeological
site that is included in our Cusco ticket so the others head back to the city
and we take a taxi up to the site, PS8 (£1/75), 20 minutes drive on a dirt road
up a steep hill.  It is the only working
example of Inca irrigations system and we are impressed at the sight of lots of
terraces with water being fed into channels down the terrace and across each
field.  The taxi down is only PS5 (£1.10)
and the bus back to town PS1 (22p).  This
is one of the buses the locals call “bread on bread” as you are packed as tight
as a loaf of sliced bread.  We have about
½ walk back to the historic district then kill time on the Internet, PS1 (22p)
hour, until the theatre opens.  Again
included in our ticket is a cultural show. 
It is really not our scene but nice to see the different traditional
costumes.  In the interval you are invited
to look at the costumes in the museum and it is really funny to notice they are
all on models that are taller than me.  I
have yet to see anyone round here that even comes to my shoulders.  By the 5th dance we have had
enough and take a taxi back to Ronnie’s. 



MONDAY 19 October – Take a taxi down to “Qorikancha site
museum” to begin our tour of the attractions included in the ticket.  It is a very small museum with nothing to
hold our attention.  At the “Museum of
Popular Art” surprises us as we really like the displays of quirky
sculptures.  In the “Museum of
contemporary art” we see sculptures made out of bones which is probably where
Ronnie & Willie got their guinea pig sculpture idea from.  There’s a separate admission fee of PS10
(£2.20) for the Inka Museum has been recommended to us a here we see trepanned
skulls.  These are fractured skulls that
have been repaired by way of a hole being made then filled and soldered with
gold and silver enabling the person to live. 
The museum is within the Admirals Palace and the exhibition takes you
through some very nice rooms.  It is
lunch time and we head up the hill towards San Blas and come across Toqokatchi restaurant
with interesting PS10 (£2.20) and PS15 (£3.30) 2 course menu plus a drink.  It is a very cosy place and we order from
each menu with Steve trying Alpaca steak in a creamy rosemary sauce whilst I
get a nice trout fillet.  The dearer menu
even includes are large glass of wine and we both really enjoy the meal.  Further along Carmen Alto we see “Edilberto
Merlda Rodrigueza” studio and find it is a lot of the work that we saw in the
popular art museum.   His daughter shows us around and explains her
father died 4 months ago but his work represents the Indians with
characteristic big hands and feet to show how hard they work.  Return to the main square to meet up with
Ronnie as he has booked us on the afternoon City Tour, PS20 (£4.40).  Our guide Carlos does his talk in English and
Spanish.  First stop Koricancha, PS10
(£2.20) a most impressive buildings where the Santo Domingo Convent used an
existing Inca temple and adapted it to their own. Originally the interior was
coated with gold plate and the outside wall topped with a cornice of gold all
of which was pilfered by the Spanish.  We
are not the only group going round and it is very difficult to hear the talk
and to actually see much.  Heading out of
town up the hill we arrive at Sacsayhuaman (sounds a bit like sexy woman).  This is the next 3 sites are included in the
Cusco ticket.  When Cusco was first built
it was in the shape of a Puma and this area was the head.  The fortress edges are in a zig zag shape to
show the animal frowning.  Here they
unearthed some skulls that showed Inca skills at dentistry with missing teeth
replaced by pieces of stone in the poor people and gold or silver in the richer
ones.  Not only is it an impressive site
but we get stunning views over Cusco.  Qenko
is a large limestone outcrop with natural passageways and caves.  Puca Pucara is a lookout area also used for
stop over’s by runners.  Tambo Machay is
a temple of the waters where the water of youth flows out of a fountain.  The entry path is lined with vendors and it
is extremely touristy but fairly interesting although the best of them all for
me was Sacsayhuaman.  On the way back to
town we stop off at factory outlets with local wares.  This means we head down the hill in the dark
to be greeted by the wonderful spectacle of Sacsayhuaman by floodlight. 



TUESDAY 20 October – Today we are doing the Sacred Valley
Tour, PS30 (£6.60) so Ronnie & Willie take the taxi down town with us to
get us onto the bus and recommend the left hand side for the best views.  We are taking all our baggage with us as one
of the stops on the tour is Ollantaytambo and we are getting off there to stay
the night.  We retrace our route from
yesterday past the ancient sites.  Our first
stop is a village craft market where prices are said to be good.  Don’t know about the crafts but the large
glass of freshly squeezed orange juice at PS1 (22p) is terrific.  There is also a market in Pisac and we have
time to wander around but from the minute we arrive and find they charge PS1
(22p) for the toilet when it is normally half that and double the normal price
for empanadas we realise it is just for the tourists. The ruined citadel on the
hill is spectacular with a 98 tier Inca terrace running down from it.  You have to walk 2km to see the citadel and
it is quite a hike with lots of steps but the view is fantastic.  There is even the Temple of the Sun at the
top.  The tour takes us along the valley
with a stop for lunch then on to Ollantaytambo. 
The bus comes to a halt at roadworks and Carlos our guide announces that
we can go no further and must walk the rest of the way.  We have our entire luggage with us so I
quickly pack up the stuff we have on board whilst Steve goes out to collect the
bags.  Carlos immediately takes a hold of
Steve’s heavy rucksack enabling us to carry the rest between us.  Most of the streets are cobbled and a bit
slippy as it has been raining.  The main
square has been completely dug up as has the last stretch of road to the
ruins.  We have to clamber down make
shift steps and slip and slide down a muddy slope.  Normally we check out a few hostals but under
the circumstances we need to check into one quickly to leave the bags.  At this point I realise I have left my handbag
on the bus and it has the site admission tickets in it.  Carlos tells Steve to return to the bus which
should be in the same place whilst other people help with our bags.  Luckily we have been given the name of Hostal
Kuychi down a cobbled pedestrian street off the square immediately in front of
the ruins.  They leave me there with the
bags and say to join them at the site as soon as we can.  Luckily the rooms at PS50 (£11) are very
pleasant so I explain the handbag problem to the girl and she allows me to pick
and room and leave our stuff in and check in later.  I wander back to try and find Steve to no
avail so return to the square.  I then
see Steve in the distance, race towards him to find that he has returned to
where we were dropped off but the coach has moved.  I suggest he goes looking for it whilst I
wait at the square until the tour returns. 
Next I see Carlos on the hill waving to me, he runs down the terraces
and comes out to tell me he could see the bus moving off and has phoned the
driver to learn it is now in the main square. 
I race after Steve but get stuck behind a funeral procession.  I locate the bus and my bag but have little
chance of finding Steve in the maze of side streets.  About ½ hour later he returns to the square,
not happy but relieved that we have my bag. 
We enter the site and soon catch up with Carlos and our group.  This is another terraced site but almost
curved around the edge of the valley. 
Many of the nearby rocks have faces in them and it is all really
nice.  Carlos fills us in on the talks we
missed and we carry on with the group around the agricultural terrace and past
various buildings.  Return to our hotel
room for a quick shower then wander into town. 
We are surprised to see a small monkey wandering freely around the side
streets but of course we are at the edge of the jungle now.  Was it not for all the road works it would be
really lovely exploring although I think Steve probably saw most of the town
earlier.  We have to be up at 4am
tomorrow so return for an early night. 


PS50 (£11)    


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