Saturday 1 July 2000  Leave at noon but get sleepy and pull into the motorway services for a nap.  The car park is heaving and now only available for very short stays so we cat nap.  Arrive in Stafford to visit fellow motorhome travellers John, Shirley and daughter Daniella.  We last met in Western Australia last year after they had driven their motorhome from Stafford to Bombay then shipped it to Perth.  After seeing us they continued round Australia to Melbourne so they have lots to tell us. 
STAFFORD

Sunday 2 July  Leave to meet Kevin & Sandra for a meal at the Swan at Forton.  Arrive at 12.30pm but learn there’s no table available until 3.30pm.  Back to the Red Lion at Sutton for a 3 course lunch and more catching up news.  Return to Mums where I appreciate John & David’s efforts setting up my new/old computer kindly donated by Rod.  The weather has deteriorated to very heavy rain and even some hail stones.  Good preparation for the monsoon season in Sri Lanka!  Round to Netty & David’s for the lads to watch the football.
MARKET DRAYTON

Monday 3 July  At Gailey we meet up with Judy & Stan in their motorhome.  They should now be travelling in Canada but sadly Stan had a mild stroke 2 days before they were due to go.  However they did have a 3 month trip to Central America earlier this year and fill us in on Nicaragua, Guatemala, Costa Rica and Honduras – more countries to add to our ever growing list.  They also give us lots of tips for Sri Lanka which they visited for 2 months last year.  In Newport we arrive early at Paul & Elaine’s just as Matthew is going out.  He looks different with shaven hair died ginger but we must look even more different as he doesn’t recognise us at all.  Paul & Elaine arrive back shortly after and following a quick change we go to Pete & Carol’s. Verity is just dragging herself out of a hangover but seems to brighten up when she sees us and becomes very chatty along with her boyfriend Richard.  Chef Pete does us proud again with roast vegetables, kebabs and pitta bread.  The use it or lose it saying is proved true when we do a general knowledge quiz.  Can’t believe how many of the questions I would have known the answer to a few years back but just can’t dig them out now.  Pete pops out to collect Rob and we all crib which leaves him puzzled by our new found intellect for about 30 seconds until he twigs.  End with a Pete & Paul head to head which is won by Paul and now logged in the annals of time!
NEWPORT

Tuesday 4 July  Leave Paul & Elaine’s as they set off for work and we head back to Market Drayton.  It’s Nick’s sports day at school and we are standing in as cheerleaders.  He does well and comes third in the long jump but has problems in the skipping race.  The rope is short and he keeps getting tangled up and falling over it but cheerfully completes the course with us cheering him on.  Steve becomes Claire’s chauffeur for the day whilst I do some gardening.  Daniel and Natasha are used to us now and we have a laugh when Daniel comes back in the house announcing "Grandma your Granddad’s back now"!  Evening at Netty’s as a bit of a farewell do for us and a welcome to David’s Australian sister Nicole, daughter Leah and her husband Andrew whom we met last year in Adelaide. Other sisters Brenda and Anne-Marie are there and also Amy, Liam, Mum, John and Claire.  It’s a pleasant evening so we make the most of it by sitting outside.
MARKET DRAYTON

                             Wednesday 5 July   Say our Good-byes at Mum’s then Claire’s and find it’s easier to leave this time as we                   know we will be back in 6 months and although we have had a lot of hassle many of the problems would still have been there in December if we hadn’t made a start. It’s also been great to catch up with everyone again and easier with a small car to get around in.  Our tentative plan is to arrive back in time for Natasha’s birthday on 15th December and stay at Mum’s whilst preparing Charlie.  Ideally we would then like to go up to Edinburgh for the New Year then head rapidly South towards Spain in search of sun.  Heading South on the M40 today the traffic is less congested and we reach London in 3 hours but then spend well over 1 hour covering about 15 miles to get to the Isle of Dogs where our Kiwi friends Barbara & Malcolm are renting a waterside apartment.  One roundabout is somewhat confusing having a centre piece made up of about 50 working traffic lights.  Soon find their place with the patio directly on the edge of the Thames making for interesting viewing of the water traffic.  Malcolm has taken the day off and is talked into being "Guido" for a whistle stop tour.  Pass on the bus as they will only accept correct change and we don’t want to blow 10.00.  (No pound symbol on this computer but conversions to pounds will still be in brackets).  Walk through the docklands to catch the Docklands Light Railway with an all day 2 sector bus and train ticket costing 3.90.  At Greenwich we look at the Cutty Sark before climbing the hill to stand on the Meridian Line at the Observatory.  Great views including our first sighting of the Millennium dome.  Back down to the river where a sightseeing boat is just leaving.  Normally 5.00 to go to the embankment I cheekily ask about a discount and get it for the 3.50 OAP rate – now is that a bit of an insult? Off along the river with a commentary pointing out the sights and giving historical information.  The Millennium footbridge is closed as it was found unstable but the wheel is operating with 25 people in each pod and a time of 45 minutes to turn a full circle.  Back on the tube to Canary Wharf and into a pub to wait for Barbara to finish work.  Meal at Browns where we pick up a holiday feel in the area with people milling around the waters edge.  Bus back to Malcolm & Barbara’s where Steve completes his unwinding, chilling out evening with even more wine.  He ends up alone outside on the patio nodding his head like a dog!
LONDON

Thursday 6 July   Barbara leaves for work whilst Malcolm spends the morning with us as he doesn’t start until 2.00pm.  A very slow journey out to Heathrow where by luck the Alamo manager serves us, apologises for the rental problem and refunds the extra we were charged – must remember to contact our booking agents who have also agreed to refund the overcharge!  Terminal 4 is very busy, very big and full of shops.  Reckon you could now turn up at the airport with just a credit card and then buy everything you need.  Our flight to Colombo leaves on time at 1450 and I manage to fall asleep during each of the four movies.
FLIGHT FROM LONDON TO COLOMBO

Friday 7 July  Land in SRI LANKA at Bandaranaike International Airport near Colombo at 6.15 am (5 hours ahead of BST) with the temperature in the high 20C’s and humid.  The currency is the Sri Lanka Rupee and we get Rs116 to the pound.  Many prices are subject to 10% service and/or 12.5% tax so we find the easiest thing is to think of rupee as pence giving us 100 to the pound.  Taxi North up the coast to Negombo Rs500 (5.00). The roads are heaving with buses, cars, auto rickshaws, bikes, bullocks, people and dogs.  Had forgotten the driving system in this part of the world where you weave your way ahead with horn blasting.  If a head on collision is imminent everyone just stops and shuffles into place with no sign of road rage at all.  Judy & Stan recommended the Hotel Silver Sands on the beach.  Too tired to haggle we take the best double room available, a large one with en suite bathroom, mosquito nets, fan, balcony and sea view at Rs770 (7.00).  By 7.00am we are blotto.  I wake at 11.00am and walk along the beach to a shop to buy bottled water.  Return then both wake up properly at 2.30pm.  Stroll along the beach backed by accommodation ranging from shacks to hotels with swimming pools.  Fit in a couple of hours sunbathing before hitting the streets again.  Take a long walk along the street passing some big impressive churches and temples decorated with colourful figures in amongst dozens of roadside stalls selling a wide variety of goods.  A couple of km further on we reach the bustling main centre and get directions to Coronation Unisex hair salon again recommended by Judy.  Rs150 (1.50) for a good cut, blow dry and head massage for myself.  Feeling weary we commandeer a rickshaw  Rs100 (1.00) back.  In the hotel restaurant which overlooks the beach we both order the Sri Lankan curry, Steve with prawns and mine with chicken at Rs115 (1.15) at time.  Receive a huge plate of rice, individual bowls of prawn and chicken curry and 5 other bowls of assorted curried vegetables and sauces to share plus popodoms. Delicious and we can’t believe the price also includes fruit afterwards. It’s been a cloudy, hot and slightly humid day but with no sign of rain.  We chat to the hotel tour organiser and put together a deal. Our own air conditioned mini bus with driver to take us into the Hill Country for 2 days, our last nights accommodation at the Silver Sands Hotel plus a taxi back to the airport all for 50.00 pounds.  A little frustrating as public transport is very cheap here but we have too little time and too much heavy and valuable baggage to do it that way.
NEGOMBO

Saturday 8 July   A painful 6.30am wake up call has us ready when driver Basil arrives at 7.00am.  Off on a badly surfaced road towards Kandy with our first stop at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage Rs150 (1.50).  At 9.15am we see the baby elephants bottle fed before the 10.00am procession down to the river to bathe.  Despite paying the admission fee one of the workers tries to charge Rs100 (1.00) for having your photo taken stroking an elephant – typical.  Basil suggests we visit a spice garden and takes us to Luckyland Spice Gardens, Dompitiya, Hingula.  Detect a trace of manipulation but we enjoy the guided tour with explanations on the medicinal properties of the herbs and spices, complimentary drinks plus a massage for each of us. Naturally this is followed by a visit to the shop where the goods have no price tags.  The medicines are very expensive so we settle for some cocoa powder and red banana essence at Rs350 (3.50) which should make a nice drink. Basil drops us for an hour and a half at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens Rs150 (1.50).  There’s a most impressive giant Javan fig tree on the great lawn which sprawls out over 1600 sq. metres like a giant octopus.  As it starts to drizzle we retire to the Royal Gardens Cafeteria for a bite to eat.  Notice police road blocks at the entrance and exit of all the towns reminding us of the ongoing problems with the Tamils.  In Kandy we need to draw money from an ATM. but a man tells us the machine we are at won’t take foreign mastercards but he offers to escort us to H.S.B.C.- 100m down the road.  After weaving through alleyways and racing down streets after him I am starting to get concerned.  We must have covered nearer 1000m and driver Basil has no idea where we are.  Just about to throw the towel in when the bank comes into sight and kindly allows us to make a withdrawal.  Of course our guide then expects a handout and is cheeky enough to suggest enough money for a large rather than a small beer!  Although we had asked to chose our own accommodation in Kandy Basil insists he shows us a place he knows.  Blink Bonnie is on the hill with a wonderful view over the town and lake but a price tag higher than we were expecting.  Manage to haggle the price down from Rs800 (8.00) for room only to Rs700 (7.00) B&B which of course includes "free" accommodation for Basil!  (Reckon he had been out here whilst we were at the gardens and primed the owner).  After a snooze we go down by the lakeside for an evening performance of Kandyn Dancers and Drummers Rs250 (2.50).  The dancing and costumes are very familiar to us but we do cringe at the men walking on burning and flaming coals as a grand finale.  It’s a cooler evening which makes for a very pleasant walk along the lake side to The Temple of the Tooth (Dalada Maligawa), Rs100 (1.00) each plus Rs50 (50p) for the camera. In 1998 a bomb was set off here so now security is tight with 2 search areas on the way in.  Enter through an arched room with frescoes and pretty fairy lights embedded in the ceiling.  Join a queue to file past the casket containing the Buddha’s tooth (snatched from the flames of his funeral pyre in 543 BC) before exploring the rest of the temple.  Round of the day with a meal at the hotel followed by a taste of the local spirit Arrack.
KANDY

Sunday 9 July   Heavy rain in the night but fine by the time we get up at 6.30am for our 7.00am breakfast.  On the road at 7.30am heading NE to Sigiriya.  Sri Lanka has many UNESCO areas and the rock fortress here is one of them.  A pass to get you into most of the cultural triangle attractions over a 2 month period costs US$32 but a one off ticket is US$15 (10.00).  We have already noticed that locals normally pay a lower admission fee which is about 10% of the tourist rate but this time the gap is wider with them only having to pay Rs10 (10p).  It does seem worth the money as we first stroll through the 473AD water gardens to reach the boulder gardens with lots of caves and rock thrones.  We start to ascend the rock which rises sheer out of the jungle.  Hundreds of steps and part way up the rock a modern spiral stairway leads up from the main route to a long sheltered gallery in the sheer rock face. Painted in this niche are a series of 5th century frescoes of the Sigiriya Damsels. Further up is the Lions Platform where archaeologists uncovered the paws remaining from a gigantic brick lion statue where you would once have climbed up through it’s mouth.  Without the modern steps access to the rock would have been extremely difficult with small foot holes hewn into the sheer sides.  Completing the last part of the climb in a fierce wind we reach the top with superb panoramic views.  Parts of the palace remain with a huge pool hewn out of the solid rock and a large throne.  Great place and well worth the climb and the money as you can see how much work was needed to make it accessible.  Lunch on the way to Dambulla where we stop to climb to the cave temples 300Rs (3.00).  At the bottom of the hill they are just completing building the largest Buddha in the world but we believe plans are already in the pipeline for an even bigger one to be built in India.  Puff and pant our way up the rock with the sun beating down on us and monkeys skipping past.  There are 5 caves with very extensive frescoes in good condition, dozens of sitting Buddhas and a number of big reclining Buddhas and other statues.  Again magnificent views and a great spot to visit.  Manage a little sleep on the 3 hour return journey between the horn hooting, the brakes being slammed on and the car bumping and swerving along the road.  Arrive back at 4.30pm to snatch an hour on the beach and a dip in the warm sea.  I retire to the room when a snake man arrives and plonks himself down in front of us, pipes his cobra out of a basket and fishes and enormous anaconda out of a sack – stuff that.  Another good meal at the hotel before an early night.
NEGOMBO

Monday 10 July  1.30am wake up call for the 2.00am taxi.  There’s almost no traffic around and we make it through the Police checks and to the airport in 20 minutes.  Delayed just a few minutes waiting for a connecting flight but a tail wind pushes us along. We have the front seats in a centre block with heaps of leg room and a chance for me to rest my feet up against the wall.  Manage quite a lot of sleep before we land a little early in Sydney AUSTRALIA at 7.30pm, 9 hours ahead of BST.  A smooth connection for our 9.15pm flight to Brisbane which lands at 10.40pm.  Ken & Kay have kindly offered to meet us and we make it back to their house in Mooloolaba just before midnight.       
MOOLOOLABA

Tuesday 11 July  A beautiful hot sunny day with not a cloud in the sky.  Whilst Ken plays bowls Kay & I go to the shops and Steve goes back to bed – what a waste!  After lunch they take us up to Keith & Diana’s near Tewantin where we left our van.  We have had mice which unfortunately took a liking to our red wine and nibbled into the bag of a 4 litre cask leaking the contents over the cupboard floor.  Luckily it is based with pink carpet covered in plastic but it still takes me awhile to wipe up then sweep out the droppings from almost all the other cupboards.  Set a trap before we all go out. It’s Folk music night at the Apollonian Hotel at Boreen Point and audience participation is invited.  One guy gets up to sing and play the guitar but has great  trouble co-ordinating both.  Meanwhile we have all been handing percussion instruments and feel like we are in a school band, what a laugh.  Return to find a mouse in the trap which pleases Ken & Kay also as they are sleeping in that area of our van.
BOREEN POINT, KEITH & DIANAS

Wednesday 12 July  Another glorious morning, winter here definitely seems better than summer in England.  Kay & Ken set off back home whilst Keith & Diana have packed up their camper trailer to head North with us.  Passing through Childers we are surprised to see that the burnt out Backpackers Hostel is right on the main road and has buildings butting against it on both sides.  Amazing that the fire didn’t spread further although we heard there was another fire in the same building only yesterday caused by some electrical sparks.  Opposite there are lots of flowers laid down at the spot where they are planning on building a memorial.  Lunch stop at Apple Tree Creek then it’s onward along cane field lined roads to Bundaberg famous for the rum and sugar production. Keith leads us right through the centre of town to point out the enormous "Whaling Wall" mural which reminds us of the one we saw at White Rock in Canada. Check onto nearby Bargara Beach Caravan Park $17.50 (7.50) night $93 (38.00) week for a powered site where Gerry & Anne are now living.  Last saw them in Perth in December so having introduced them to Keith & Diana we settle down in the sun with our G & T’s to chat.
BARGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK

Thursday 13 July  Follow Gerry & Anne for the half hour walk to Mon Repos beach where naturism is tolerated.  It’s a beautiful sandy beach and at certain times of year turtles nest here.  Stretch out to bask in the hot sun to be joined by Keith & Diana mid morning.  All get together in the evening with Steve cooking on the BBQ which came with the van.  We are joined by Vin and all end up in our van playing charades.
BARGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK 2

Friday 14 July  Another hot day and Ken & Kay have driven up to stay with us in our van so the nudie nine head to the beach.  Attempt another mass BBQ but there is a problem with a blocked jet and we end up cooking inside.  All get rather merry and end up playing ten pin bowling in Gerry’s annexe using the empty beer cans. 
BAREGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK 3

Saturday 15 July  Keith & Diana leave to head North whilst the six of us hit the beach again.  Meal in our van followed by cards.
BARGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK 4

Sunday 16 July  Ken & Kay’s turn to depart today which just leaves the four of us to stake out the beach.  As they say "ain’t life a beach!".
BARGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK 5

Monday 17 July  Into Bundaberg with Gerry & Anne.  Bit of shopping at the Sugarland Mall then onto ten pin bowling.  $11 (4.50) gets you 2 hours of ten pin bowling and/or use of other activities.  Scores are Steve 156,171,154 Glen 96,152,99.  Gerry & Anne also get respectable scores and we even have time for 13 holes on the Looney Lunar Putt Putt which is luminous mini golf.  At "Across the waves" the evening buffet at $4.40 (1.80) is excellent in quality and value then we return to watch a new TV mini series "The Potato Factory" together whilst sipping port and trying to stay awake.
BARGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK 6

Tuesday 18 July  It’s hotter than ever down the beach and we make the most of it.  Back on the caravan park we see a lady feeding the rainbow lorakeets and we join in and have lots of them eating out of our hands.  Anne cooks us a lovely 3 course meal to round off the day.
BARGARA BEACH CARAVAN PARK 7

Wednesday 19 July  Time to hit the road again feeling relaxed, refreshed and looking nicely tanned after our week at Bargara.  Call in to the Bundaberg Distillery for the $5.50 (2.30) one hour tour which finishes with a drink in the bar.  A 2 hour Internet session at the library brings us up to date with our mail then its out to Sharon Nature Park for an overnight free camp.  Close to the road but a lovely spot with picnic table, grassy area, toilets, water and free BBQ.  Don’t reckon much to the Gorge Walk which is through bush and comes out on the banks of the river but with nowhere to go.
NR BUNDABERG, SHARON NATURE PARK

Thursday 20 July   Call in to view the Mystery Craters but as we pull up to park we can see over the fence.  There’s a small area with red sandstone craters full of water and not much else so we drive on and save our money.  Jim & Liz live near Bororen and invite fellow naturists to stay on their property.  It’s a lovely spot with nice big gardens, a swimming pool and separate toilets, shower and accommodation for visitors.  They just ask for a donation towards the up keep which is fair enough.  Another cloudless sunny day perfect for relaxing.
BOROREN,

Friday 21 July Jim takes us for a ride out starting with a visit to Lake Awoonga then dropping down to the coast to Boyne Island and finally Tannum Sands.  All nice spots but not worth returning to in the van.  Laze away the rest of the day.  Liz’s son Josh and grandson Hayden have arrived and we all get together for an evening BBQ.  They keep a few cattle on their property, a couple of dairy cows for the milk and the rest for meat.  A farm butcher slaughters and prepares the meat for them finding one cow lasts about a year.  They name them all and tonight we are dining on Fergus!
BOROREN 2

Saturday 22 July  A completely lazy day in the sun although I do manage to write 4 letters before breakfast.
BOROREN 3

Sunday 23 July  In Bororen we meet Gary and Leanne whom from last years cruise.  They live at Calliope but are in Bororen today for a pony show.  At the Hotel/Motel we enjoy the famous pie for lunch.  In the war trains full of soldiers stopped here and a man sold them pies from a tray.  They were such good pies (and still are) that they became known simply as Bororen Pies.  We head north to a rest area on the banks of the Calliope river.  It’s a lovely spot verified by number of other people camping here.  Gary and Leanne are joining us later for a BBQ.  Gary was supposed to be bringing fresh fish but instead arrives with 8 thick porterhouse steaks and a tray of lamb chops.  Leanne’s son Sheldon and his friend Mitchell cycle down from home to join us and what looked like too much food is soon demolished. 
CALLIOPE RIVER

Monday 24 July  We hear on the news of a helicopter ambulance crash just north of Rockhampton killing everyone.  As we approach Rockhampton we can see why as everywhere is shrouded in ominous low lying cloud combined with fog and cane burning smoke.  First stop is the Tropic of Capricorn tourist office which marks our transition from temperate climate into the tropics with a sculpture and signs.  After an Internet session at the library we notice a bag sale at the local charity shop.  Short on glasses and cutlery when there were 6 of us last night we call in.  For $5 (2.00) you can buy as much as you can stuff into a carrier bag and in addition to cutlery and glasses we get a dozen items of clothing, net curtains and some pillow cases to use as dusters – bargain.  Quick visit to the shops.  The cloud has burnt off and it’s a hot afternoon perfect for another naturist venue.  Trevor & Heather bought Savannah Park near Yeppoon a month ago and are busy turning into a naturist retreat.  We have difficulty up the tree lined drive and even more fun trying to find a level spot for the van.  I nearly have a fit when Steve drives at an angle up a slope as the van tilts heavily and the front wheel leaves the ground by about 6".  We make it to a level spot and a well earned beer for Steve.  A chap called Glen is working here and other visitors are Jenny & Tony who are caretakers of another club "Rosco" further down the coast.
YEPPOON, SAVANNAH PARK

Tuesday 25 July  The cold night and morning mist soon give way to a hot sunbathing day.  We all congregate on the terrace for happy hour which is extended when Trevor lights a fire and we bake some potatoes on it.
YEPPOON 2, SAVANNAH PARK

Wednesday 26 July  Continue on the scenic coastal loop which takes us first into the seaside town of Yeppoon where we start to notice a rattling on the van.  Examine outside and seeing nothing we continue clockwise following the coast with 13km of Queensland’s most beautiful beaches.  The noise becomes a clank and seems worse on bumps and bends.  Keep stopping and even try me jogging along beside the van but the noise can only be heard inside.  Remove the hub cab and examine everything possible when we stop for fuel at Emu Park.  Up to the lookout to see The Singing Ship sculpture designed as a monument to Captain Cook.  Sadly today there is no wind so the singing is off.  Proceed carefully back to Rockhampton where Steve drops me at the library planning to drive off and find a garage.  It seems to be "one of those days" as having booked the Internet session by phone, called and altered it to a later one because of our van problems I then find the library closed.  Attract someone’s attention and find the phone calls have been diverted to the other library which is where I must go.  Dash back and luckily find Steve where he dropped me off.  At the other library I hop on the computer whilst Steve goes to a garage.  It is just the "Roo Bars" which are lose and should have had more screws in when fitted recently.  Feel we may have loosened it a bit in our endeavour to find a spot at Savannah but the man says it was always insecure but still safe to drive.  Will speak to Mike back in Sydney.  After our planned early start it’s 2pm when we leave Rockhampton.  Want to put a few miles behind us today and target Carmila about 240 kms away as just possible before it gets dark at 5.30pm.  We hadn’t accounted for the Police road block where Steve is breathalysed and his licence inspected, 2 sets of road works, and a long stop at the Mobil station to pump in almost 200 litres of cheap fuel.  Just make it to a sea front spot at Carmila Beach where we notice it is now light until almost 6.00pm. It’s a hot evening and stays warm throughout the night.
CARMILA BEACH

Thursday 27 July  One of the first mornings for awhile where I haven’t needed the heating on.  At 6.45am when I get up it’s already 22C inside. Enjoy an early morning stroll along the beach.  Still not happy about the van noise we call at 3 more garages and get brakes, suspension and other things checked without finding a solution.  Our destination is Taylorwood Naturist Resort near Airlie Beach.  Linda makes us most welcome and even offers use of her car to save us moving the van.  It’s an adult couples only resort and we meet a number of other campers at the obligatory happy hour – Ollie & John from Mandurah, Elllie & Brownie from Mackay, Ell & Kevin from the Gold coast, Betty & Len from Sydney, Betty & John from Brisbane, Julie & Tyler from Canada plus Linda’s husband Rogin and her Mum Fran.   Fees are kept very low at $10 (4.00) night or $60 (24.00) a week per couple on a powered site on the understanding that you clean up after yourself to avoid extra staff wages.  There are hot showers, free use of a twin tub washing machine, swimming pool, pool table, free tea and coffee and a BBQ area.  Excellent value and to complete the picture there are lots of peacocks strutting round the grounds.
TAYLORWOOD

Friday 28 July  I almost feel guilty spending 2 hours putting 8 loads through the washing machine.  At least for this week we shouldn’t be creating  much more although it’s cloudy today and everyone’s lightly clothed.  No excuses left for me not to do a good clean up inside the van.
Late afternoon we take Linda’s car down to Airlie Beach to combine our need to use the phone and picking up Tony & Tracey who have been away on one of the Whitsunday Islands.  We visited Airlie Beach when we were here in 1994 but notice a big change as it has grown to accommodate the many backpackers who come here.
TAYLORWOOD 2

Saturday 29 July  It’s customary in Australia to celebrate Christmas in July and today is the day.  At $10 (4.00) you can join the Christmas party which includes lunch.  I help out by doing the decorations and make heaps of paper chains.  More people arrive, Wilma & Eric from Newcastle, and locals Godfrey & Kerrie, Rite & Han plus others whose names we can’t remember.  Dinner is at 1.30pm and comprises chicken, ham, gravy, stuffing, baked potato, roast pumpkin, garden salad and a bread roll washed down with bubbly, soft drink and orange juice. Funny poems are recited then Santa arrives wearing only the top half of the suit (can see where he would park a bike but not sure about a sleigh!).  We are all given presents having donated one male and one female gift to the value of $3 (1.20).  Christmas pudding is served with ice cream and custard followed up with chocolate bars. Quite a contrast to a British Christmas.
TAYLORWOOD 3

Sunday 30 July   Ell invites us to join her and John & Betty for a ride out.  Conway Beach makes for a nice walk and we take a couple of coconuts to smash and eat later.  Call at nearby Wilson Beach before returning to the club.  It’s sausage sizzle evening with everyone congregating to cook and eat together.  Steve and Tony are nominated to wash up and as the sink is very low everyone gets a laugh as Steve sits down on the job.  Intermittent rain from mid evening onwards.
TAYLORWOOD 4

Monday 31 July  An early rain shower precedes a cloudy day.  I tag along with Tracey & Tony to go to the shopping centre and bump into half of Taylorwood there.  Cards and games fill in the afternoon then we retire to watch more of the "Captain James Cook" which is of particular interest to us whilst travelling in this area.
TAYLORWOOD 5 

Thursday 1 June 2000  Rain, rain and more bloody rain.  Not a bit of help when I need to get all the bedding washed.  We hear news that a twister passed through nearby Richmond this morning but caused minimal damage.  Pop up to see the new motorhome which Tony & Heather have just bought then Walter & Nissa invite us up for a mid morning glass of champagne.  Afternoon tea in the club house where Paula produces freshly baked scones and cream. Back to Nelson to stay with Rod & Ruth overnight.  Prompted by us they have just bought themselves a small motorhome.  They live in a superb house which they designed themselves to make the most of the magnificent views over the bay.  We are on the bottom of the 3 levels and have a bed with a canopy and our own bathroom – real luxury.  After a tasty meal we have a laugh playing cards and Pictionary.  The rain gets worse accompanied by thunder and lightening and sounds like hail stones beating down.
NELSON, ROD & RUTHS

Friday 2 June  Park the motorhome at the airport where Chris & Marion’s friends are collecting it.  Our Air New Zealand flight takes a bumpy 30 minutes to get to Wellington.  Transfer to the Sydney flight which just over 3 hours later descends over the vast expanse of city lights.   Land in Sydney, New South Wales AUSTRALIA at 5.30pm local time (9 hours ahead of BST).  Mike said he would be waiting to meet us with a name sign but there is no sign of him.  We walk around looking and make enquiries to no avail.  Shortly before 7.00pm he finds us, he’s been waiting at the wrong arrivals hall and only just noticed.  Mike & Toni are in their mid 50’s and took early retirement.  They live in the suburb of Sutherland and we spend time getting to know them before being shown their motorhome.  "The Belmont" is a Gulfstream the same as ours but bus style and although only 3 foot longer looks much bigger.  Mike has made numerous additions to it including about 20 clocks and thermometers, umpteen compasses and mirrors, a sophisticated solar power system and a midi system linked to the video which runs through both televisions.  Will try and ignore the clocks as normally we just rely on our body clock.  Unpack and acquaint ourselves with our home for the next 6 months.  The cab seats swivel round to be part of the lounge along with an arm chair and settee.  Behind that the kitchen is opposite the dinette and the fridge/freezer behind that.  The small wardrobe is opposite the small bathroom with the whole of the back being a proper bedroom with full sized bed.  I prefer the lounge, bedroom and hydraulic levelling ramps in this but our bathroom, wardrobe, kitchen and dinette.  Just goes to show that even in a 27′ vehicle you still have to make compromises.   
SYDNEY, SUTHERLAND

Saturday 3 June   It’s a beautiful sunny morning and after breakfast we learn how some of the motorhome things operate and are relieved that many are identical to ours.  Out for a big shop which quickly relieves us of $200 (£80 assuming we get $2.50 = £1).   Steve has a practise driving the bus which is also much higher than ours and has a strange swaying sensation on corners.  The reversing camera may take a bit of getting used to –  or we may just use our normal system of me getting out and looking.  As a passenger I feel like ducking when we get near trees as I am seated right at the edge of the vehicle unlike ours where the cab is narrower.  Fuel prices have gone up and the diesel costs 86.7c litre (35p) as opposed to 76.9c (31p) last December which is a shame as this bus only does 12mpg. 
SYDNEY 2, SUTHERLAND

Sunday 4 June  The motorhome has huge storage compartments underneath like the luggage area on a coach.  Mike spends the morning instructing Steve as he loads them up with even more gadgets including a car washing system.  By 1.00pm we are fully briefed and ready to leave.  Mike acts as motorcycle escort to get us around Sydney and onto the motorway North.  There’s quite a lot of traffic and the lanes are narrow so we are glad of the help as we can concentrate on the driving.  Get our first glimpse of the Olympic area at Homebush as we drive over a new flyover.  After 1 hour we reach Hornsby where Mike waves us off as we join highway 1.  It’s an amazing road hewn out of sheer rock in many places.  Pull over at Mooney Mooney rest area on the Hawkesbury River to settle for the night.  With the hydraulic ramps in place Steve relaxes to tune in the televisions to watch the Grand Prix.  No reception but as I have read about a Postman’s mail boat from nearby Brooklyn we head there.  Still no television which is ironic as normally we don’t even know what we are missing but here we are with a superb system and no picture!  Anyway it’s a nice spot by the boat ramp where the pelicans are feasting on the fisherman’s scraps.  Steve goes to the public toilets and I panic when I realise I haven’t told him to look under the seat for funnel web or red back spiders.  Not a problem as there wasn’t a seat!
HAWKESBURY RIVER

Monday 5 June   Woken at 6.30am by a rendition of the "Dawn Chorus" by the laughing kookaburras and backing group.  One thing we love about Australia is the wildlife and really missed it in New Zealand.  A bright but chilly morning as we walk to check out the boat.  It’s $30 for under 4 hours and as you only go 30km upstream we pass.  Back on the motorway we see a sign telling vehicles over 4 tons to pull into the weigh station.  We turn off but are a little worried.  We have 7.5 ton licences the same as the motorhome weight.  However we think that when Mike replaced work tops etc with marble, added lots of wood panelling and filled the van up with gadgets we may be over.  Before we get to the check point different lights signal that we are not required to stop and to divert back to the motorway.  Maybe for the moment ignorance is bliss?  In Gosford we drive up to Rumbalara Reserve which is a bit of a challenge on steep winding roads.  Larger than life size statues of heroes Charles Kingsford-Smith and Matthew Flinders can be seen admiring the views.  Out to the coast with white sandy beaches and lots of holiday resorts.  Lunch at The Entrance the world pelican capital and we see loads.  Inland to Cessnock in the Hunter Valley wine area.  First stop Drayton wines reminding us of our family in Market Drayton.  Drayton is the original family name but a family tree shows that in 1956 a descendent called Christine Marsh was born – bit of a coincidence as I was born Glenys Marsh in 1956.  We go our separate ways at the next stop with Steve tasting the cheeses and me the fudge.  Had picked out the Marsh Estate for a visit until we read that it only has top quality wine sold by the case.  At the Royal Hotel in Muswellbrook we park up to visit Gayleen and Lee.  They took a year out travelling and we spent a night together near Ayers Rock then met by chance in Darwin and Perth.  Between customers we manage to have a meal together in the pub and look through their photos.
MUSSELWELLBROOK

Tuesday 6 June   Heading north on the New England highway the first town is Scone the world’s second largest thoroughbred and horse-breeding centre (2nd to Kentucky).  Many impressive studs with Emirates Park Stud having a Dallas South Fork style entrance.  Just North of Wingen is the curious Burning Mountain.  Originally thought to be a volcano it has now been proved to be a very deep coal seam steadily burning away for over 5000 years working it’s way 6km along the valley.  As we walk we see crevices where the seam has completely burned away underneath causing the land to cave in.  At the top of the mountain you can see smoke and a heat haze amongst the ash.  It’s lovely to be walking in the Australian bush again admiring the many colourful birds and keeping an eye out for snakes (never thought I would miss them!).  Tamworth is the country music capital of Australia and just South of the town is a 12 metre golden guitar perfect replica of the famous Country Music Awards Golden Guitar trophies.  The Longyard Hotel is just behind and we get permission to stay on their car park overnight.
TAMWORTH

Wednesday 7 June  Wake to ice on the front windows and frost outside, our first since January 1999.  The radio reports overnight lows of -9C but we had plenty of love to keep us warm (plus blown air central heating!).  Pause to look at the Country Music Hands of Fame cornerstone in the park and recognise Ted Egan, John Williamson and Pixie Jenkins whom we saw in Alice Springs. Armidale has a free 2 1/4 hour bus tour departing at 10.15am.  We see many blue stone impressive buildings, learn about the history then pause for tea & coffee at the railway station.  Only two trains a day pass through, the evening one recently brought forward to 6.00pm.  Sadly an elderly lady either didn’t know or forgot and ignored the flashing lights last night and got hit by the train.  Her vehicle was pushed for 8 metres before falling down a bank.  Luckily she is alive and making satisfactory progress.  Up to the University of New England with the impressive historic Booloominbah homestead with a famous "Gordon" stained glass window.  A Pizza Hut Lunch Works at $6.95 (£2.80) then off to explore the city on foot as it is now a pleasantly warm sunny clear day.  Had forgotten that in Australia most libraries offer 1 hour free use of the Internet.  Return to the information centre car park and are surprised to see a motorhome parked next to ours with a faded GB sticker and "Travelworld Wolverhampton" label, the company we bought ours from – bit of a mystery.  Leave a note on the window for the owners.  Continue North stopping at Black Mountain BP station for the night.  The mystery motorhome pulls up and we chat to the owners who brought it from someone who shipped it over from England.
BLACK MOUNTAIN        

Thursday 8 June  Another very cold and frosty morning as we head into Glen Innes.  The main street is lined with interesting old buildings and we pause to wander round.  In the nearby park we find the Australian Standing Stones a national monument of Australian Celtic pioneers.  Opened in 1992 it’s the first stone circle built anywhere in the world for over 3,500 years. Why didn’t they build it at the place called Stonehenge just south of the town?  In Tenterfield we make a small detour to walk in Ghost Gully.  A typical example of what wind erosion can do leaving dip sandstone peaks, ridges and gullies at the edge of the river bed.  Sadly we also see a couple of dead sheep in the area.  Pressing on we make the short walk to Thunderbolts hideout.  It’s an area of large granite boulders which form caves where Thunderbolt the ranger camped.  Boonoo Boonoo (pronounced bunna b’noo) national park is our turn off.  Back on the dirt tracks of Australia which Steve just loves, sorry I misheard him should be loathes.  At two tourist offices we asked about the road explaining we had a large and valuable motorhome.  Not a worry they said, it’s dirt road but smooth and wide – they lied.  14 gruelling km later having seen dozens of brush tailed wallabies we are at the falls.  A short walk to view the waterfall cascading 210 metres into the gorge below with delightful  pools above the falls surrounded by granite cliffs enhanced by a magnificent red sky.
BOONOO BOONOO NATIONAL PARK    

Friday 9  June    Nearby Bald Rock National park holds Australia’s largest monolith.  The dome is 750m long, 500m wide and rises over 200m above the surrounding bush making it the largest exposed granite type rock in Australia.  The Bungoona walk gradually climbs up the rock passing impressive granite boulders, wind sculptured rocks, old gold mine shafts, wildflowers and green forest.  Approaching the summit we merge with the steep track to follow the white painted dots.  Magnificent colours can be seen where rain has tumbled down the rock face and it reminds us of our climb up Ayers Rock.  Sign the visitors book at the summit where we are rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views.  Down the very steep face and just short of 2 hours later we are back at the car park, what a brilliant place.  Steve sits on the step whilst I cook toast and before it’s ready Magpies have smelled it and gather round.  They are very tame and Steve hand feeds one.  Kookaburras also come close and we have to laugh when one sits on the "Exit" road sign above the direction arrow and proceeds to do a poo – shame we didn’t catch it on video.  At noon we cross into QUEENSLAND proclaimed "The Sunshine State" on the number plates.  Through Warwick and on to Ipswich on the outskirts of Brisbane.  Last year we met "The Old Fossils" two couples going round Australia in caravans and they live here.  Stop at Ian & Cecile’s parked on neighbour Hilton’s lawn.  Cecile insists on us joining them for an evening meal and then Jack & Irene call round to join us for a chat.
IPSWICH 

Saturday 10 June  Jack & Irene call to take us on a tour starting with panoramic views over Brisbane from Mount Coot-tha.  At the Botanical Gardens there’s an impressive Bonsai Tree display with over 100 unusual specimens.  Opposite the main city centre the South Bank held Expo 1988 and is now a lovely area of gardens, cafes, walkways, sculptures etc.  We are most impressed with the Nepalese Pagoda and a lagoon swimming pool with sandy beaches.   Lunch at Jack & Irene’s house where Jack has an aviary full of brightly coloured finches.  Back to Ian & Cecile’s for our second tour.  Visit Wivenhoe Dam and then tour around Ipswich which doesn’t quite work out due to rain and darkness setting in.  Hilton joins us for an evening BBQ.
IPSWICH 2

Sunday 11 June  Leave at 8.30am to skirt around Brisbane heading North.  Arrive on the Sunshine Coast in pouring rain.  Steve & Rebecca (Greece March 1998) live at Golden Beach Caloundra and we call for lunch.  Further north at Mooloolaba live Ken & Kay (Carnarvon W.A. September 1999).  They have a unit with a back garden leading to a sandy beach on the canal  where you can moor your own boat.  We park in the nearby car park with our own canal view and beach beside the van.  They take us for a drive around the area taking in the famous "Loo with a View" before stopping at the Surf Club for a few drinks.  Again I get out of the cooking as Kay prepares a lovely meal.
MOOLOOLABA

Monday 12 June  Wake up to our lovely view enhanced by a rainbow at the end of the canal – magic.  It’s a brighter day and after a cooked breakfast at Ken & Kay’s they drive us up into the mountains.  Montville is a pretty village full of interesting craft and gift shops.  Amble up and down and buy a few nick nacks then head to Mapleton where the tavern has been recommended for lunch.  Sit on the balcony with fabulous views out to the coast whilst sipping wine and sharing a fish platter and cheese and fruit platter between us.  Continue to Tewantin to Keith & Diana’s (Darwin July 1999) to do a recce for our visit tomorrow and to introduce Ken & Kay.  On sight they realise they have met previously but the trip is not wasted as the drive to "Farview" property has too many low trees for us to gain access.  Keith assures us all will be rectified by tomorrow.  Spoilt again with Kay cooking tea followed by a card session.
MOOLOOLABA 2

Tuesday 13 June  Drive up the coast but with poor visibility of the beaches as the road runs too far inland.  We are surprised how touristy many of the areas are with high rise apartments.  At "Farview" we find the Texas Chain Saw Massacre has taken place, a gate post has been removed and there is enough access for a 56 seater coach!  We settle ourselves in by the miniten court with our own toilet and water tank.  Back to Noosa for Diana’s Mah-jong afternoon whilst we go with Keith to the coastguard headquarters.  He is a volunteer and many of them meet up to eat their sandwiches and play pool on their days off.  We join them and appreciate the good views.  Spend a considerable time on the internet and at the travel agents trying to sort out a flight back to England.  Pick up Diana and fish and chips to take home and eat before sitting out on the deck in the hot spa tub.
BOROREEN POINT

Wednesday 14 June  Steve jogs down the drive to the mail box to be surprised to see a man hovering near it but turns out to be a big grey kangaroo.  We join Keith & Diana for a walk around their 21 acres which includes a small lake, canals and lots of native bush full of wildlife.  By phone we book our trip back to England departing next Wednesday from Brisbane.  Enjoying an afternoon spa the heavens open up and we return to the van watched by a couple of big kangaroos.  Keith & Diana join us for a meal after which we watch more of "Billy Connolly’s World Tour of Australia" on video.
BOROREEN POINT 2     

Thursday 15 June  Back into Noosa with Keith & Diana to tie up more lose ends.  Booking the flight was only the start of it as we now have to organise getting ourselves to Brisbane airport, from Heathrow in England and the possible purchase of a new video camera duty free.  Steve nearly trips over a large toad as we walk back home in the dark in the rain yet again. 
BOREEN POINT 3, KEITH & DIANAS

Friday 16 June  Keith’s going in to coastguard so I go into town with Diana to buy some suitable clothes for our England trip.  Not sure reef sandals, shorts and T-shirts would be suitable for every event!  4pm we set out again via nearby Boreen Point on the edge of Lake Cootharaba the largest inland lake in Australia.  It’s a lovely place and still undeveloped.  In Noosa we park by the yacht club to pick our spot to watch the Olympic torch.  80% of all Australians will travel less than 1 hour to see the torch relay.  Geoff & Joan join us and they have brought wine, beer and snacks which go down well.  Special flags are handed out and we find a spot where there is going to be a hand over. The new runner is dropped off and we get a chance of a photo holding the unlit torch.  The tension builds as police cars clear the road then special police on Olympic 2000 Harley Davidsons lead the procession.  We recognise the Maui motorhome with cameramen in the back which runs infront of the torch bearer.  Geoff & Joan know runner Bob Clark a past citizen of the year.  He’s the 312th runner of the day although runner is a bit of an exaggeration as he trots up to light the next torch.  Maybe that’s why it’s all running 1/2 hour late.  There’s a big cheer as the torch is lit and the next runner sets off.  We retire to the Yacht Club for a meal and ex mayor Noel and wife Diana join us.  Bob with his wife Roma & family also squeeze onto our table bringing bottles of champagne to celebrate.  We hear he is fondly know as Bob Bollinger Clark!   We learn that he gets his running shirt and shorts free but has to pay $320 (£128) to keep the torch – people running after 1st July will have to pay nearer $350 (£140) as the new G.S.T. will have been added!  Most meals are under $10 (£4) and the food is excellent.  Didn’t realise that as visitors from overseas we are allowed into private clubs in Australia without a sponsor.  Stand on the balcony watching the fireworks in the park where the torch relay finishes for the day.   Return to Geoff & Jeans for coffee to round off a very special evening.
BOREEN POINT 4, KEITH & DIANAS

Saturday 17 June  I get stuck into a big wash using Diana’s twin tub.  Steve joins Keith for a ride out with the trailer to collect gravel.    From the roadside stock you are allowed to take the scrapings which is the layer the machinery can’t pick up.  Manage brief spells sitting out sunbathing and notice the kangaroos have gathered to sunbake together on the lawn.  Diana tries to teach us mah-jong then we go back to cards.
BOREEN POINT 5, KEITH & DIANAS

Sunday 18 June  More rain through the night.  Thought we were known as whinging poms but at the moment everyone is whinging about the poor weather.  Geoff & Joan come for lunch which is preceded by a spell in the hot tub sipping bubbly. 
BOREEN POINT 6, KEITH & DIANAS

Monday 19 June  Take the motorhome into Noosa and park to walk along the famous Hastings Street strewn with fashion shops and pavement cafes.  Could easily be in one of many European resorts.  Back in Noosaville we book a rental car for 2 weeks (£153 + £15 airport pick up + 95p road tax per day + VAT) using the Internet and then in Tewantin our shuttle bus to Brisbane airport $22 (£9) one way.  Glad we don’t make trips like this every day.
BOREEN POINT 7, KEITH & DIANAS

Tuesday 20 June  Begin packing.  Keith and Diana join us for a last meal in the van.
BOREEN POINT 8, KEITH & DIANAS

Wednesday 21 June Absolutely typical that this should be the hottest day so far!  At least we have read that England is in the middle of a heatwave.  At 11.15am Keith & Diana run us into Tewantin to catch the 12.00 Suncoast Pacific bus to Brisbane Airport.  We are the only passengers at this stage and pass comment on how hot the bus is.  The air conditioner is not working so 10 minutes down the road in Noosa we change to another coach.   Arrive at 2.30pm and sit out in the sun until our flight leaves at 5.00pm.  Notice that the Ansett stewardesses are all rather old but the service is good and we eat our first plane meal before arriving in Sydney at 6.30pm.  Boarding our Air Sri Lanka flight we are greeted by an attractive stewardess in a sari with her hands together in prayer style.  Hope that is just their tradition and not a reflection on the flight safety standards!  9.00pm and we are taking off on the almost new A340 airbus heading to Colombo.  It’s a superb plane with individual T.V. screens offering over 40 channels plus connection to cameras on the nose of the plane and underneath.  It feels like a computer simulated game as we taxi down the runway and take off, amazing.
FLIGHT SYDNEY, COLUMBO, LONDON

Thursday 22 June  5 hours and one meal (including a small bar of Cadbury’s chocolate) later we clear the coast of Australia over Broome.  A total of 11 hours, 2 meals, one round of sandwiches and umpteen drinks later we land in Colombo, Sri Lanka at 4.00am local time (5 hours ahead of BST and 4 hours behind Sydney). The heat hits us as we disembark and it looks, sounds and smells like India.   Two hours later we are off again on an older more basic plane heading for Heathrow.   It dawns on me that we have just left Australia in winter on the shortest day of the year to head to England in summer on the longest day of the year.  Refuse the first meal in favour of a sleep.  At the back of the plane they continually serve sandwiches and drinks which we think is excellent.  For breakfast Steve has curry and I a double Gin & Tonic.  After 10 hours flight we land in Heathrow at 12.30pm where it is cool and drizzly.  Much hassle when we collect the pre-booked Alamo rental car.  Having confirmed an inclusive price of £213 we end up with a bill for £421.80 with £300 excess!  After numerous phone calls we leave with a smaller car and the price still in contention.  Heavy rain starts as soon as we join the M40 and we notice considerably more traffic using it than before.  Stop for a shower and change of clothing at the service area before getting held up in a traffic jam on the M5.  Finally get to Market Drayton early evening  41 hours after leaving Tewantin!  Claire is gob smacked when we knock on the door as no one had any idea we were coming.  We meet Natasha for the first time and she is absolutely gorgeous with the most incredible copper coloured hair.  She takes to us immediately and we enjoy a cuddle whilst trying to get a word out of Daniel.  After 17 months he knows of us but doesn’t really remember us and is a bit shy.  Call into the swimming baths to surprise my sister Netty in the showers and then drive round to her house.  Crack open a bottle of Asti on her return and catch up on the news.  Notice quite a change in Bobby and Nick who have both grown a lot.  Back to Claire’s to crash out on the sofa bed.
MARKET DRAYTON

Friday 23 June  Both awake around 4.00am so I get stuck into the mountain of paperwork.  Netty calls for Daniel and I go with her to drop him at playgroup and am surprised to find that some of the Mums look a similar age to me – perish the thought.  Continue ploughing through the mound of paperwork and trying to make plans to visit people.  Drive to Telford in the afternoon. Mavis & Trevor haven’t changed and we take them out to the "Cuckoo Oak" where we are joined by Netty, Alan and Lauren.  The food is plentiful with 17" platters, refillable soft drinks, tea and coffee and reasonable prices.  Stay overnight at Mavis & Trevor’s but still wake at 4.00am
TELFORD

Saturday 24 June   Join Mavis for a brief trip up to Telford.  Had forgotten just how busy everywhere was and feel convinced that the person was not joking when he told us England was full.  Make our way to Netty & Alan’s new house to see Stuart, Stacey, Lauren and boyfriend "Maca".  A couple of hours later it’s on to Newport to Pete & Carol’s where we notice the biggest change of all in Rob who is not the boy we left but quite the young man.  Paul & Elaine call round and together we go to Goldstone Wharf.  Feel quite homesick when we spot lots of motorhomes behind the pub holding a rally!  Good food, good company and lots and lots of laughs.  Back to Claire’s for overnight.
MARKET DRAYTON

Sunday 25 June  Mum arrived back from Canada yesterday but mid morning her curtains are still closed so I go straight round to Netty’s.  Call back to Mum’s late morning and hear she had a good trip and Auntie Joan is well but getting forgetful.  It’s the first time we’ve seen Mum since her heart operation and she’s looking good.  Re locate to Mum’s giving me chance to spread my paperwork out without interruptions!  Take Claire and family, Netty and family and Mum & John to the Swan with Two Necks for an evening meal.  The kids love the play barn and I am surprised how independent Daniel is.  He’s soon got to know us and has heaps to tell even if we don’t quite understand everything.  Natasha is a little darling and so contented you never hear her cry.  She will happily be passed to anyone but we do get our fair share of cuddles.  After coffee at Netty’s we return to Mum’s.
MARKET DRAYTON

Monday 26 June  Steve’s sore throat and cold are even worse.  At Mum’s I look after Natasha whilst Daniel has a swimming lesson and pop over to watch.  Claire heads to work and leaves me baby-sitting alone as Steve has taken to his bed.   I take the twin buggy up to town which is major exercise going up Phoenix Bank hill.  Daniel informs me that he usually has a Gingerbread man and points out which shop!  Shortly after they are both fast asleep – nothing to this baby-sitting lark!  Return to Claire’s house and enjoy really getting to know the kids.  It’s John’s birthday and he joins us for a meal at Mum’s complete with mini cake and candle.  Up until after midnight still plodding through the paperwork.  I’ve already made a lot of phone calls but people don’t seem good at following things up and calling back.
MARKET DRAYTON

Tuesday 27 June  Manage to sleep until 6.00am.  It’s a beautiful morning and I get stuck into my plan of action for the day.  Steve takes Claire and the kids up to Telford for the bank whilst I find the light at the end of the tunnel on the business front.  Netty & David’s for tea.
MARKET DRAYTON

Wednesday 28 June  8.00am start to drive up to Preston where Peter stores and looks after "Charlie".  The New Zealand people Marion & Chris have stayed there overnight and we are getting together to sort out some problems.  "Charlie" is not too bad and mainly just showing signs of wear and tear most of which can be put right with a bit of TLC (and money).  Manage to resolve things amicably then set off to Blackpool.  Visit Auntie Barbara & Uncle Ken in Thornton for a couple of hours before driving to Yeadon.  Lisa & Mick now live here and we visit their new house.  Sian bounds down the drive to meet us and we all go to the world famous Harry Ramsdens for tea.  It’s much the same as we remember and very elegant with chandeliers everywhere and a pianist playing background music.  Steve & Mick have the "Harrys Challenge" which is an enormous fish with chips, peas or beans plus free desert and a certificate if you eat it all.  Crack up laughing when Steve’s arrives as it looks like a leg of fish with a huge chunk sticking out of the side!  Return with Steve & Mick both certified.
YEADEN

Thursday 29 July  Drive to Keighley and call to see Richard & Sharon en route to Sandra’s. The family are well but unsettled and considering business opportunities abroad.  Rendezvous with David at high noon in McDonalds.  He looks well and is very clean and smart.  After eating like he’s not been fed for weeks we walk to the library which offers free Internet access.  Instruct David on the use of his new E-mail address before he goes off with Steve to play snooker.  It takes some time for me to do my business about town as I keep running into people I know who want to chat.  A long steady walk back to Sandra’s amidst drizzle.  I have a 5.50pm appointment with Doctor Wilson to discuss my nasal problem and my 15 minute appointment lasts 45 minutes.  5 minutes discussing my problems and 40 chatting about New Zealand where he used to live!  At one stage the receptionist phones him up to subtly remind him he has another patient so he asks if he can meet up with us one evening when we are back in December.  I leave with a long prescription and phone numbers for the local private clinic on a chance that I may get a cancellation consultation tomorrow instead of waiting for an appointment in December.  Sandra cooks us a meal and we are joined by her son Aide.  Whilst Steve goes off to bowling I get chance to look at Aide’s new house in Oakworth and then spend the rest of the evening at Sandra’s chin wagging about her trip with us last year and her subsequent holidays including a cruise as the captain’s VIP guest.  Steve returns just before midnight but can’t get in. I get out of bed to open the door which is stuck but not locked.  Good job I grab a T-shirt or Ray would be seeing rather more of me than expected!  He’s going to Australia in November to visit his son in Sydney for a month and wants to meet up with us which will be great.
KEIGHLEY

Friday 30 July  Meet with our accountant at 11.00am to sign our tax returns and receive the good news that we should not be getting a bill this year – of course the down side of that is that it means we have not earned enough!  At our old butchers Stanley’s the pies taste as good as ever, Steve does miss the English pork pies which you don’t seem to get abroad.  Stop at Broomhill Post Office and get stalled chatting to a number of customers.  The outside of the shop looks in need of a paint job but inside they have some new fixtures and fittings but the shelves are far from well stocked, however Mike & Judy who bought it from us seem happy with things despite the uncertainty of the Post Office’s future. In Wilsden we visit Rod & Nancy and it is good to hear Rod is looking to take early retirement in 5 years with the possibility of spending a year touring Australia.  At the Yorkshire clinic I have been lucky to get an appointment with Mr Comerford at 3.30pm.  I saw him back in 1993 when he correctly diagnosed my benign positional vertigo.  This time he anaesthetises my nose to examine it with a camera on the end of a narrow tube.  He has to use the children’s one as my nose if so narrow.  He declares my nose riddled with polyps aggravated by my allergies and narrow bridge.  The old system of operating is no longer used as they prefer to treat it with medication.  I leave armed with antibiotic tablets to take for a month, steroid tablets to take for 10 days and 9 bottles of nasal spray to use for 3 months followed by a prescription for 8 bottles of a different sort which I must use for ever!   The bad news is £100 for the consultation, £30 for the first lot of medication with the last 8 bottles running at almost £9 each.   The good news is that once the polyps have shrunk I should be able to breathe properly through my nose which should cure my asthma problem also.  Check on our property on Parkwood Street which is in need of TLC but overall not too bad, just wish we had time to go in there for a day and tart it up.  Take Sandra out for a meal at the Old Silent Pub but take ages getting there as we cut down the country lanes to save time but get stuck behind a slow moving wide load going our way. 
KEIGHLEY 2

Monday 1 May 2000  It’s a dull day but Steve’s full of flu so we stay put and actually manage a short spell of sunbathing in the afternoon.
OREWA 2, HIBISCUS SUN CLUB

Tuesday 2 May  Off up the Northland coast with a short detour to the Warkworth Satellite Station visitor centre.  Free and quite interesting.  Tawharanui regional park has a marine reserve alongside the long sandy beach.  Again we manage a few hours sunbathing and enjoy wandering around the area.  Our regional park booklet even says you can stay free on the car parks in a self contained motorhome.
TAWHARANUI REGIONAL PARK

Wednesday 3 May  The ranger arrives to find out why we didn’t check into the campsite.  Explain about the leaflet but have to show it to convince him not to charge us camping fees!  Goat Island near Leigh has been recommended as another marine reserve with good snorkelling.  The island is very close to the shore and a marine university sited here.  It’s cloudy but having seen some pretty big fish from the rocks Steve takes to the water.  He reports sightings of snapper, paketi/spotty, blue cod and red moki.  Follow the coast as near as possible stopping for a stroll along the lovely Mangawhai Heads beach.  There’s definitely a feel of autumn now with trees changing colour, the nights dark before 6.00pm and only a short spell in the day when the sun is hot enough to sunbathe.  Our last sight of autumn trees was in October 1998 in Andorra!  Park for the night behind the Hotel in Waipu giving us chance to stroll around the small town.
WAIPU HOTEL, POP

Thursday 4 May   Stopping in town for bread we notice a long queue by a man selling fish from a trailer.  Taking this as a good sign we buy 2 bream fillets at $1 (35p) each and a kahawai which has been split in half, cooked then dried at $2.50 (85p).  Uretiti D.O.C. camp is directly behind the naturist beach.  $6 (£2) p.p.p.n. for camping, flushing toilets, drinking water and huts with cold showers and also a rope rigged up for you to use your own solar showers.  A very short stroll through pine trees to the vast white sandy beach which looks even better under the clear blue skies.  The beach is also used to train race horses and we are entertained by a few trotting past with sulkeys (special racing carts).  Enjoy a very long walk along the beach which runs parallel to the golf course in parts and return at low tide.  Time to start digging for tuatuas.  You stand knee deep in the water then wiggle either your feet or heels until you find a shell.  With luck you can then bend down and retrieve a tuatua.  I say with luck as you often find nothing, sometimes find a different shell or can find a tuatua but a wave knocks you over before you can pick it up.  Anyway it’s good exercise doing the tuatua twist and in no time we have over 40 in the bag.  Return after lunch to collect a few more tuatuas as the bag limit is 50 per person per day and we want to preserve some in vinegar.  The sea is pleasantly warm and it’s also a great way to sun tan your half moons!  
URETITI DOC CAMP

Friday 5 May  Having left the tuatuas soaking in sea water overnight to spit out the sand they are ready for cooking.  As soon as they are steamed opened we take the meat out and once cool drop it into a jar of sugared vinegar.  There are a few too many for the jar so Steve eats them for breakfast – yuk.  Anyway the sun’s shining so by 9.00am we are ensconced in our spot on the white sand.  By 11.00am the clouds have built up so we make a break.  Marsden Point is New Zealand’s only oil refinery.  At the visitor centre it’s free to watch the sound and light show, view a scale replica of the refinery, watch a video and study information boards.  We learn a few things but most of it is too technical for our redundant brains.  Whangarei is the largest town in Northland and having stocked up on groceries we explore the town basin.  It’s a fairly new pedestrian only area by the marina with lots of pavement cafes, museums and small shops.  Again very much on the Mediterranean style.  Clapham’s clock museum $5 (£1.65) proves most interesting with over 1500 different ones on display and we end up spending nearly an hour browsing round and being shown animated models.  Once again we have been given a contact this time through the "Free Beach Group".  David and Margaret live near Maungatapere and soon have us parked and wired up.  They hope to go to England in 2002 so have lots to ask us.
MAUNGATAPERE, DAVID & MARGARETS

Saturday 6 May  It’s a dull day but we have been invited to stay and I get in some serious computer time as David is on the Internet.  I do my own work and help David & Margaret research for their trip.  Shame the weather is not better as they have a lovely swimming pool in the garden.
MAUNGATAPERE 2, DAVID & MARGARETS

Sunday 7 May  After rain in the night we wake to a dry but dull morning.  The area around Maungatapere is famous for the stonewalls which look just like the Yorkshire dry stone walls.  Back in Whangarei we stroll down Quality Street a reconstructed old fashioned shopping arcade.  In the mall we follow brass plaques in the pavement telling the area’s history.  Out to the picturesque Whangarei falls 26.3 metres high falling over basalt cliffs.  A short walk gives us splendid views from the top and below.  Take the coastal road towards Russell but visibility is poor as the weather deteriorates.  There are a lot of shacks in the area most with loads of rusty cars in the garden.  Many of the beaches are inaccessible and most of the people we see are Maori.  Russell the first capital of New Zealand is steeped in history but in the pouring rain nothing inspires us to get out to see more.  Pull up early afternoon at a P.O.P. with power $5 (£1.65) enabling us to fester and watch T.V.
NR RUSSELL, POP

Monday 8 May     A clear morning and we can now appreciate the views over bays in both directions.  Continue to the end of the peninsula to catch the ferry from Okiato to Opua.  $7  (£2.35) for car and driver, $12 (£4) motorhome and driver and $1 (35p) each extra passenger.  Notice from their board that the motorhome price has been increased from $10 (£3.35) but not the rest!  We are now in the pretty Bay of Islands and yachts abound.  A short drive to Pahia to check out the Country Rock festival at the weekend and other trips.  Exploring accommodation options our drive takes us through Waitangi National Reserve and past Hururu Falls where we stop to make the short walk to the viewing area.  Back in town we book the special offer combined Cape Reinga full day tour and a half day Cape De Brett boat trip for $99 (£33).  Waitangi Marae has been opened in readiness for the big motorhome rally this weekend.  Club members in self contained motorhomes get a special site rate of $6 (£2) unpowered or $7 (£2.35) with power.  We take advantage of one of the last few powered sites available. Walk over the bridge to the Waitangi Treaty house commemorating the spot where the original treaty was signed.   By the bridge is Kelly Tarlton’s shipwreck museum within the ship "Tui" but as a lot of the treasure was recently stolen we pass.
RUSSELL, WAITANGI MARAE

Tuesday 9 May  At 7.30am the Dune Rider 4 X 4 bus picks us up for the tour.  Drive through Kerikeri past the oldest stone and oldest wooden buildings in New Zealand.  The rain stops before we arrive in Puketi Kauri forest.  Reduced by over 99% by early settlers the tall straight native Kauri Trees have no lower branches – perfect for logging.  Rejoin the main coast road stopping at a bakery in Taipa for coffee.  At Houhora the most northern pub in New Zealand beckons.  It was relocated from another area when business tailed off.  Whilst being towed by bullocks it travelled so slowly that it remained open for trade!     Anyway on to our destination reputedly the most Northern point of mainland New Zealand Cape Reinga and also the meeting point of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean.  Walk to the lighthouse for the obligatory photo against the sign showing we are now over 1400km North of the Southern most point.  We must have done a few detours because we have driven over 5000km to cover the same stretch!  Detour off the main road and travel down Te Paki quicksand stream.  Were the bus to stop it would be stuck in less than a minute.  The stream is surrounded by big sand dunes and we pull over to enable us to sand toboggan down them.  Clutching boogie boards we scramble up the sand and then lie on our fronts to sledge down.  Two Yorkshire chaps in their 70’s also have a go.  Great fun and the beauty is you don’t get cold and wet like with snow.  We even manage to come down "knee boarding" style.  The stream emerges onto 90 mile beach (actually nearer 90km) and we race along just below the water line producing lots of splashes.  Stop to give us chance for a paddle and we have just about walked the 50 feet to the sea when a big roller comes in which rapidly reaches above our knees and covers the dry area behind us.  These rollers can be a big problem and have caused people to be killed and cars to get stranded here.  One of the things which most surprises us is that regular luxury coaches also follow the same route as our 4WD.  Back on the main highway we stop at the Kauri Kingdom where trees up to 40,000 years old have been rescued from swamps, dried out and then carved.  This also gives the coach drivers a chance to hose the vehicles down with fresh water.  There is a world famous fish and chip shop at Mangonui which stands on stilts in the bay.  $10.45 (£3.50) for the two portions of fish and chips – chips $2 (65p) and fish sold by weight.  A nice fat juicy piece of fish and crisp non greasy chips eaten out of the paper overlooking the bay – in heavy rain.  Final stop at a fruit and veg stall run by Stuart from Ripon who has good friends in Keighley.  A good value, interesting and fun day out.
RUSSELL 2, WAITANGI MARAE

Wednesday 10 May  Walk round the headland to Pahia to catch the 9.00am Dolphin Discoveries "Discover the Bay" trip.  The other 5 passengers were also on our coach trip yesterday and taking advantage of the twin tour.  On the fast jet boat we head out in the Bay of Islands.  The number of islands is in dispute but said to be 144.  A Maori guide tells us something of the history and culture and we have an underwater video camera which projects undersea life on to TV monitors.  Visit many bays and also Cape Brett Lighthouse, Cathedral Cave, and the Hole in the Rock.  Spot the rare sandy dotterill bird, gannets and cormorants.  In Paradise Bay we drop anchor and get a chance to use the sea kayaks.  Sadly we don’t see any dolphins or whales and return to Pahia for 12.30pm.  Walk back to the Marae to find a few more motorhomes have arrived.  
RUSSELL 3, WAITANGI MARAE

Thursday 11 May  Motorhomes are piling in thick and fast.  They seem to have no policy in New Zealand for the gap between vehicles and I soon feel hemmed in and short of privacy with vehicles lining up like a car park.  We escape to the Waitangi Motor Camp just across the road where they have a deal at $5 (£1.65) p.p.p.n with power, laundry, toilets and hot showers at 20c (7p).  Choose a large grassy pitch directly overlooking the inlet – worth the extra for space and a view.  Get stuck into the back log of washing but find it a battle drying it between showers despite the strong winds.  The rains become torrential and continue through the night with the wind rocking the van.
RUSSELL 4, WAITANGI MOTOR CAMP

Friday 12 May  The rain finally stops.  Motorhomers Eve & Richard and Val & Graham pull in next to us and having been to the festival for the last 4 years they offer lots of advice.  Walk into Paihia to buy our tickets for the 11th Annual Bay of Islands Country Rock Festival.  $25 (8.35) per person includes entry to 6 venues over the weekend, festival programme and shuttle bus between venues.  4 Artists from Australia and one from USA will join the 70 New Zealand ones plus there is a separate line dancing programme.  Make it back to the van just before heavy rain recommences.  Notice that there are now almost 100 motorhomes on the Marae field. The rain eases in the evening and we stroll over to the Copthorne Resort where the large hall is almost full of aging motorhomers.  First act James Wood is poor but Terry Gordon from Australia a baladeer, sonwriter, bush poet and comedian with his own TV programme in Australia is excellent.  Onto the shuttle bus via the floodlit Hururu Falls to the Park Lodge which is heaving and has a mixed age audience.  Joy Adams and Yolande Gibson (Australian) are not bad.  A stroll up the road takes us to the Paihia Pacific Resort where Stephen R. Cheyney also Australian is very good involving the audiance in a very funny song about plucking a fluffy duck!  Most acts perform for 45 minutes with a 15 minute gap between them so the time flies by and it is midnight by the time we get home.
RUSSELL 5, WAITANGI MOTOR CAMP

Saturday 13 May  Walk to Copthorne to catch the 8.45am shuttle bus to Opua station for the "Soul Train" to Kawakawa on the Vintage Railway. The $10 (£3.35) 16km trip should take 45 minutes but we encounter numerous problems along the line.  With a chain saw they prepare wood as we travel.  The steam train grinds to a halt on the small incline and we have to wait for it to "get up enough steam" to proceed.  The track is slippery and they have to stop many times to sand the rails.  At one stop the engine blasts out some flames and sets the grass on fire.  Using water to extinguish the flames leaves us short on water for engine steam.  They uncouple the carriages and the engine sets off without us to get more water from Kawakawa station.  Much  time passes and the guard tells us it is only about 5 minutes walk to town so a number of us set out on foot.  Bit of a worry going over the bridges as there is nowhere to go if the trains comes back!  Arrive on the edge of town to be greeted by a possie of cowboys who were waiting to hold the train up – bit more like the train holding them up today!  The train line runs down the centre of the main street and line dances are performing their routines in the middle of it (so that’s why they call it line dancing).  Bands are interspaced along the street on the pavement and there’s a great atmosphere.  The train eventually goes back to collect the carriages but there are more problems and after 2 hours it arrives.  The cowboys escort it down the street whilst throwing "Crunchie" bars to the crowd.  (In New Zealand they have an advert where cowboys hold up a train to steal everybody’s Crunchie Bars).  Manage a bit of line dancing whilst checking out the artists.  Dennis Marsh performs well, thought he might be a distant relative of mine (Marsh is my maiden name) until I saw that he was a Maori – well they do call them "cuzzies" here.  Also performing are Brian McCullough, Cassablanca, Joy Adams, Reg McTaggart, Kitten, Morningside, Annette Hawkins & Country Drifters and the Serenes.  Thyme Zone are in the pub and we spend a lot of time there as they are a good band and the beer is only $3 (£1) a pint with 30% extra free.  End up taking the camera and video into the famous "Hunterwasser" toilets which making me feel like a bit of a pervert.  They have been designed by the famous Austrian and are decroated with unusual tiles which flow Gaudi style. The train leaves promptly at 2.30pm and gets us back without a hitch in 45 mintues.  Back at the Copthorne Resort we catch Reg McTaggart and then Brendon Ham & Back 11 Basix who perform the type of music we like.  Conclude that the basic country ballads don’t appeal to us as we like more variation in tempo or a bit of comedy in the acts.  Nip back home for tea before returning to find the place packed out with standing room only.  Kitten is just finishing and the attraction is Dennis March & Band who play a wide selection of songs.  Take It Back are next followed by Corinna Cordwell.  A young lass she has a huge vocal range and incorporates a lot of yodelling into her songs.  Last act Southern Cross are brilliant with Marion Burns playing an electric violin superbly.        
RUSSELL 6, WAITANGI MOTOR CAMP
 
Sunday 14 May   Nice day so we walk to town along the beach.  At "The Odeon" we watch Country Joe who are terrible then give up on Annette Hawkins.  Up to Hururu falls where we enjoy Cincinatti, sit through the appaling Country Coral & Friends to be rewarded by the excellent Tree Fellers with Irish music.  Back at Copthorne in time to catch American Sally Burgess who has a good voice.  After nipping home for tea we catch the last wo bands Crystal Harmony who are good followed by Thyme Zone whom we saw yesterday in the pub but have now started to lose their voices!  What an amazing weekend.
RUSSELL 7, WAITANGI MOTOR CAMP

Monday 15 May  A quick shop in Kaikohe en route to Rawene where we have a "Free Beach" contact.  Robin & Jenny Hoare are English and Robin once taught at Wellington Grammaer School.  They have an interesting indoor swimming pool which despite being small has jets for you to swim against, topped off with a sauna it makes a lovely leisure area where we chat and relax. 
RAWENE, ROBIN & JENNYS

Tuesday 16 May  It’s quite a sight to see the mists lift over Hokianga harbour to be replaced by sunshine.  Our early departure is postponed as we soak up a bit of sun before leaving late morning.  As we reach Opononi to view the Hokianga harbour mouth and the huge sand dune opposite the heavens open up.  Waipou Kauri forest has some of the biggest trees in New Zealand.  We walk to the largest Tane Mahuta – "lord of the forest" 1200 years old and 52 metres high.  Kai-Iwi lakes are a cluster of 3 lakes dedicated to different sports, water ski-ing, swimming and fishing.  With sandy beaches they would make a great stop on a nice day.  Pull onto a P.O.P. stop in Dargaville and enjoy a smorgasbord at the New Asian Chinese for $13 (£4.35). 
DARGAVILLE, POP

Wednesday 17 May  A pleasant morning for driving South near to the Kaipara harbour the largest in New Zealand with over 3000km of shore line. This area is the Kumera (sweet potato) capital of New Zealand and roadside stalls abound.  At Matakohe we visit the highly recommended Kauri & Pioneer museum $7 (£2.35).  A superb place with a collection of kauri gum, lifelike displays of the lives of kauri bush people, old school, church, post office, etc.  Steve gets a shock whilst viewing a Victorian room with mannequins as one turns out to be a real old lady in costume crocheting.  A couple of hours pass in no time then we head to Maungaturo to turn off for Piroa Falls.  Scramble down into the gorge and just as we near the falls we have to hop over two large stones.  Stepping onto the second one I slip and soon find myself taking an unrequired dip in the cold river.  When I manage to stop laughing I check to find no damage just cold wet muddy clothes and boots.  Fortunately the falls are worth the walk but should maybe be renamed Glen Falls.  South of Wellsford we turn West to gain splendid views down onto the Kaipara harbour.  Through Helensville then out to Muriwai Beach on the rugged west coast of the Waikatere.  Adjacent to the black volcanic sand beach are rare examples of pillow lava rock formations on the cliffs – or so the leaflet says!  Enjoy a stroll along the beach exploring a cave and then a walk along the cliff top.  South of here is where the film "Piano" was shot.  Just leave ourselves time to drive back to Devonport in the daylight to re visit Jenny & Ron.
DEVONPORT, JENNY & RONS

Thursday 18 May   Domestic day.  In the evening we go out with Jenny & Ron to "Monsoon" Thai restaurant in Devonport and enjoy an excellent meal. There is a board with 3 word puzzles and if you get them all correct you get a free desert.  We are foiled by the 3rd one which just says RROWS and turns out to be "A pain in the arse" which we think is very clever.  Over the road to the pub for a drink noticing that the old gas lights are being used in the street.  Although only a short ferry from Auckland when you are in Devonport it feels like a small olde worlde type village.
DEVONPORT 2, JENNY & RONS

Friday 19 May  Leave at 9.30am to avoid the rush hour traffic and again have no problem getting ourselves through Auckland and out over the Bombay hills heading back to Tauranga. Our route crosses the Hauraki plains and through Paeroa where a giant bottle reminds us that this is the home of the "world famous in New Zealand" Lemon & Paeroa drink. A pleasant drive through Karangahake Gorge then out to the coast for a lunch stop behind Katikati Beach.  Reach Rosco Park – Ros & Maurie’s Nudvan P.O.P at Welcome Bay late afternoon.  . $5 (£1.65) inc power  
WELCOME BAY, ROS & MAURIES POP

Saturday 20 May  Fernlands Hot Pools has been booked for the annual naturist swim $4 (£1.35) p.p. and we arrive at 11.00am.  Suddenly realise just how many people we have met in New Zealand when we are reunited with Geoff, Stronach & Judy, Malcolm, Grant, Rae & Ken and Nudvanners Lyn & Ray, Margaret & Des, Barbara & Warren and Peter.   There’s a very good attendance and we also realise how many naturists we haven’t met.  Very  little swimming is done but it is great to sit on the ledge and chat.  When the pool closes at 3.00pm the Nudvanners return to Rosco Park for afternoon tea.  At 6.00pm 12 of us pile into Peter’s motorhome to drive to the church hall. We make more noise than a big bus full of kids on an outing and all get the giggles.  Along with other people who have stayed over from the swim we enjoy a pot luck supper.  The return bus ride is even worse after the wine has kicked in. 
WELCOME BAY 2, ROSS & MAURIES POP

Sunday 21 May  A bad night’s sleep with 3 contributing factors – Steve watching the FA Cup from 2am until 4am, a nearby party (not ours) with loud music until 3am and my nose reaching record decibels when I snort and wake myself up!   Before we leave Ros kindly loads us up with Feijoas and Kiwi fruit which they grow on their block.  It’s along round of farewells before we head towards Hamilton.  Stop for lunch to find that we have left the cameras behind.  Fortunately Ray & Lyn are returning to Hamilton tomorrow and rather than a 3 hour return trip we decide to spend an extra day in Hamilton and wait for them to bring it to us.  We return to visit John, Pauline and girls Emma and Laura who are as pleased to see us as we are them.
HAMILTON, JOHN & PAULINES

Monday 22 May  As we have a day spare I make an appointment at the local Doctor’s to try and sort our my nose problem and my asthma which has also been bad recently.  $32 (£10.65) for a consulation and with the receptionist coming from Carlise and the Doctor from Derbyshire I feel quite at home.  Unfortunately he diagnoses chronic rhinitis and possibly a polyp both needing an operation.  This may entail a longer spell than anticipated back in England to get me sorted out.  Intent on getting my money’s worth I also get treatment for my facial acne and fungal infection on my back which end up costing $39 (£13) for prescriptions.  Fortunately because of the reciprocal arrangements we pay the same price as residents as after 1 year away from England we couldn’t buy any more travel insurance without first returning.  On the plus side the Doctor tells me that cutting out alcohol and dairy produce wouldn’t make any difference to my problem so I shall be putting that theory to the test tonight.  John’s working late so I look after Emma & Laura after school and get tea ready for everyone.  All is going well until we pick up our E-mail on John’s computer.  Major problem with our motorhome.  Chris and Marion collected it last Monday and only 2 miles down the road the gearbox was red hot and squealing.  Our friend Peter retrieved it and after it had cooled overnight found metal pieces in the gearbox oil.  It’s away for appraisal and repair but we could be looking at up to £2000 which is bad news.  Also bad for Chris and Marion who are renting a car and it could be another week before it’s back.  Even worse Peter tells us that after the test drive he found Chris to be the worst driver he had ever come across as he couldn’t reverse, was extremely erratic, impatient, didn’t use the mirrors and would not listen to advice.  (Don’t think Peter has ever come across a Kiwi driver before).  Spend time making phone calls and getting as much information as we can which brings to light an insurance problem.  I have paperwork saying we are covered on the RAC section of our policy for breakdowns in Europe offering up to £3000 car hire expenses if the vehicle cannot be repaired in 24 hours.  On the telephone our broker says that England is not Europe (well  I know a lot of Asians now live there but surely it is not now classed as Asia) and therefore is not covered and anyway in Continental Europe the cover is only £750.  This contravenes the policy sample we have in front of us but despite us phoning at our expense he says he will not discuss it with us in New Zealand!!! As we are in no position to research another policy to cover our unusual circumstances our action is limited and we are left fuming and frustrated.  Hit the bottle.
HAMILTON 2, JOHN & PAULINES

Tuesday 23 May  Having slept on the problem (or not slept as the case may be) we call back to Regency Motorhomes where we know owners Allan and Maxine.  Allan says the gearbox problem is either a failed component or the oil level was not checked at the last service.  We follow this up by faxing the manufacturers in America and also asking Peter to send us more information.  Head further south stopping in Te Kuiti to try to sort more things out by E-mail but the only computer in town is playing up and we make little progress.  Continue towards New Plymouth entering the Taranaki region on a scenic route through lots of gorges.  Follow the black volcanic sandy coastline getting glimpses of volcanic Mount Taranaki (a.k.a. Mount Egmont) which looks impressive through the clouds. Stop at a P.O.P. at Bell Block just North of New Plymouth $3 (£1) with power.  Steve phones Peter and finds out that our van problem was a blade shearing off the talk converter leading to new bearings, clutch plate and gear selector also being required.  Estimate around £1000 + VAT – ouch.
BELL BLOCK, POP

Wednesday 24 May   Wake to a beautiful sunny day.  We have booked an appointment to visit Classique Surroundings in Bell Block.  Noelene welcomes us to her private house with a magical garden containing water, bridges, dove cotes and hidden corners.  A huge garage is filled with 1950’s memorabilia featuring Marilyn Munroe, Elvis Presley and Cadillacs.  Well worth a visit.  It’s supposed to be $2 (65p) admission but Noelene doesn’t want any money but asks for a lift into New Plymouth.   Walking to the library we appreciate the wide streets and Art Deco buildings which give the city a nice feel.  Nearby Pukekura Park is excellent.  You operate a fountain and man made waterfall by a switch and there are many tracks to wonder along.  Cliff Richard performed in the adjoining Brooklands Bowl and we stand on the same stage but notice a distinct lack of audience. Drive along the sea front which is a bit dissapointing as there is no beach just big boulders.  Heading towards Inglewood we detour to drive around Lake Mangamahoe where we get a great view of Mount Taranaki.  In Stratford most of the streets are named after Shakespeare characters but we certainly don’t recognise them all.  Our drive to Dawson Falls takes us into the dense bush surrounding Mount Taranaki which also makes driving difficult on the narrow road with many blind corners.  From the lookout we get fine views over the Taranaki Plains but the Mountain is now shrouded in cloud.  A short walk to Dawson Falls then back to Stratford for the performance of the only public Glockenspiel in New Zealand which it is in action at 11.00am, 1.00pm and 3.00pm each day.  To music life size figures of Romeo & Juliet pop out of different places in the tower reciting their lines culminating in the balcony scene.  Great stuff.  In Hawera we make an appointment to visit another private museum this time the Elvis Presley Memorial Record Room owned by Kevin Wasley.  Another great find with treasures including 24 carat gold discs and an original autograph.  In fact the original record room which houses thousands of rare and expensive recordings has overspilled into another room with heaps of memorobilia.  Admission is by donation but it’s quite obvious that Kevin gets great pleasure just from showing off his collection.  Settle into a nearby P.O.P. where we are surprised to find the owners have a British Auto Trail motorhome.  Sadly the original owner had it made to ship to New Zealand when he emigrated but shortly after lost his leg in an accident and had to sell it.
HAWERA, POP

Thursday 25 May   Chatting to the lady at the P.O.P. stop it transpires that her mother came from Keighley and has the surname Feather.  We had two cutomers Christine & Anne Feather and also knew of a builder called Ronnie Feather who could be related to her.  Back into Hawera for a quick look at the old water tower built after three destructive town fires.  Before it was finished an earthquake struck and it ended up tilted and had to be corrected with weights like the Leaning Tower of Pisa.    Today the list is hardly noticable.  As it’s a beautiful day we head out to Waverley Beach just in time to explore numerous sea caves and admire the hole in the rock before the tide comes in.  Unexpectedly it’s warm enough to sunbathe on the grassy cliff top.  A short stop in Wanganui to visit the Sarjeant Gallery more to admire the unusually designed building which makes optimum use of daylight.  An exhibition on the "Great Escape" grabs us more than the art work which looks to us like something a child could do!  Waikanae is where Barbara Knight’s (friend from Turkey who with Malcolm visited us in Nelson) parents live.  Unfortunately her Dad Fred is away but Mum June makes us welcome and cooks us a meal.
WAIKANAE, JUNES

Friday 26 May  A very short drive from June’s is Waikanae Beach with Kapiti Island opposite.  We must return to the main road to drive further down the coast and call in at The Lindale Centre a complex of speciality shops.  Steve makes for the Kapiti Cheese shop but I am repelled by the smell and visit Kapiti Candies.  We crack up laughing in the National Geographic Shop when we spot a tester pot of cream for Thrush!  Pause for a coffee stop behind Paraparaumu Beach.  Back in Wellington we get to meet fellow full time motorhomer Doug Harrap with whom we have been making Internet contact.  Doug’s visiting his mum Marje in Miramar in we spend the afternoon chatting with them and arrange tentatively to meet Doug in town tonight.  Back to the excellent parking spot on Taranaki Wharf $4 (£1.35 overnight) where we leave the van and walk to meet Malcolm’s Mum & Dad, Gwen & Roger at Cafe Zing.  It’s good to see them both again and enjoy our generously portioned meals.  We are amazed to find out that Roger knows Doug as they were both in the fire service together.  Courtney Place area is buzzing with heaps of people, fancy street lights and numerous buskers.  Make our way to Molly Malones Irish Bar and head to the quieter area upstairs where Doug is most surprised to see Roger.  We have a grandstand view of the floodlit Bungee Rocket which with three cutomers paying $35 (£11.65) a time must be making a bomb as it is in constant use.  Return to the wharf having arranged to meet Gwen & Roger in the morning.
WELLINGTON, TE PAPA MUSEUM CAR PARK, TARANAKI WHARF

Saturday 27 May  I have been struggling with my breathing for some time now and each night get less and less sleep.  I have a Ventolin puffer following a previous "one off" asthma attack, brought on by smoke, but feel the same symptoms now.  This is my worst night and I still can’t get my breath despite using my Ventolin.  First thing in the morning we start to drive to Gwen & Rogers for advice on medical facilities but my attack gets so bad I can barely breathe and tears stream down my face.  A few more puffs of Ventolin get us to Roger & Gwens and into the car heading to the hospital.  Reach the hospital just as another bad attack strikes and in no time I am rushed straight through and put on a nebuliser and oxygen.  Over the next 2 hours I am given 8 tablets, more time on the nebuliser, lots of examinations and more ventolin.  The doctor diagnoses acute exacerbated asthma caused by chest infection, sore throat and aggravated by my nasal rhinitus.   She also mentions that New Zealand and especially Wellington are bad areas for asthma sufferers.  I am tutored about asthma and issued with a peak flow meter, ventolin, spacer, pulmicort preventor, and 2 different lots of tablets and told to return if my air flow drops below a certain level and to see a Doctor next week to check on my progress.  $50 (£16.65) for the hospital treatment and a further $49.20 (£16.40) for the first month’s prescription.  The Doctor says that providing I monitor myself I can still go for our planned drive to Eastbourne but to take things easy.  It’s a pleasant drive around the bay and we stop for lunch in a small cafe.  Roger & Gwen have asked us to sleep in the house overnight and this means that whilst Steve, Gwen & Roger go to the pub to watch the "Super 12" rugby final I can have a bath and an early night. 
WELLINGTON 2, GWEN & ROGERS

Sunday 28 May  Despite some deterioration in the night I do get some sleep and wake up feeling much better than yesterday.  Just getting ready to go out when Steve cricks his neck whilst bending down to put his shoes on!   What a pair of old crocks we are.  Between a few wheezes and splutters I manage to massage him well enough to go out.  In the Old Bank Arcade we catch the intricate detail and performance of the animated Old Bank Clock which tells the history of the Old Bank.  Down in the vaults below glass panels you can see the remains of an old sailing vessel the "Plimmers Ark" from 1850.  Heading North out of Wellington we pass a castle on the hill side which is a set from film "Lord of the Rings".  Kaitoke Park is a lovely spot with lots of grassy picnic areas, streams and a nice gorge.  It’s a lovely sunny crisp day but still chilly which is verified by the frost on the grass and ice covered puddles.  Well wrapped up we enjoy a walk and then Roger cooks up lunch on one of th electric BBQ’s.  Drive around Tunnel Gully trying to find without luck a village which has been created for the film.  Have to chuckle at another hard hitting road sign which say "Red means stop, end of bloody story".  A documentary about bad Kiwi driving analised this point and deduced that everyone goes through on stop because they are frightened the car behind them intends to go and would hit them if they stopped!  Catch a glimpse of the Prime Ministers house as we return to Roger & Gwens.  Late evening we drive down to the port to park ready for the 6.30am ferry.
WELLINGTON 3, ROGER & GWENS

Monday 29 May  We’re both feeling a little better when we drive onto the ferry.  A spectacular sunrise over Wellington bids us farewell to the North Island.  Approaching the Marlborough Sounds is amazing as it is almost impossible to see a way through.  The ship makes numerous manouvres to wind its way through this difficult and often extremely narrow passage.  An hour later we emerge into Picton Harbour on the SOUTH ISLAND and dock at 9.30am.  Breakfast by the shore and a fix of E-mail then back to Nelson avoiding the winding Queen Charlotte Way but still unable to avoid the numerous bends and hills between Havelock and Nelson.  Lunch stop at the very pretty Totara Flat near Pelorus Sound and then the rain starts as we near Nelson.  A few business matters resolved we retire to Brook Valley Motor Camp which offers motorhomers a special deal of $7 (£2.35) for a powered site. 
NELSON, BROOK VALLEY MOTOR CAMP

Tuesday 30 May   Heavy rain all through the night and no sign of it stopping.  Return to Nelson Sun Club to begin the big van clean up operation.
NELSON SUN CLUB

Wednesday 31 May  We have a dry morning giving Steve chance to clean the outside of the van and me to get some washing done.  Can’t believe how quickly the 6 months have gone.  Tomorrow we are staying in Nelson with friends so I will now summarise the facts and figures for our New Zealand tour.
    Number of different ones Number of nights
Homes visited   23    54
Park Over Properties  15    24
Free Camping   38    48
Naturist Locations  10    41
Dept of Conservation Camps  4     4
Motor Camps    3     9
Bach (holiday home)   1     4

Distance driven  9980 km
Litres of fuel used 1292
Cost of fuel  $835.94  (£278)
Cost of km pass $260.00   (£ 87)
Total cost  $1095.94 (£365)
 So to sum up our New Zealand tour we have had a great time and would like to come back in maybe 5 years to the North Island to explore more of Northland and the East Cape which we completely missed out.  The Kiwi hospitality lived up to it’s reputation – so also did the Kiwi driving!  Weather could have been better but then we would have struggled to get around and see all the things we wanted to.  As it is we have run out of both time and good weather.  With the £ going as high as $3.20 but always holding above $3 = £1 we have also found our money went a long way.  A great country for motorhoming and naturism.  We’ll be back.
NELSON SUN CLUB 2

 

Saturday 1 April 2000  Fed up of life on the road, heading back to England to work again – April Fool.  Drive out to the Bay of Plenty Sun club $8 (£2.60) p.p.p.n. for our fix of R & R.  Grant settles us into a spot near the pool and no sooner are we ensconced on our sun beds than Barbara & Warren turn up.  We met them last weekend at the Nudvan rally and they have come to take us to Pikowai Beach where Peter is camped.  Pikowai is heaving with motorhomes which is not surprising as it is beach site and it’s only $5 (£1.65) per vehicle plus 50c (16p) for a hot shower.  Peter’s there for the "singles" rally but at 49 he’s the "baby".  Perhaps they throw their pension books onto the table instead of keys!  Return to the sun club where the area by our van is chosen for happy hour as it has the most sun.  Meet Vernon & Pam, Barry & Jenny with granddaughter Sam.
BAY OF PLENTY SUN CLUB

Sunday 2 April  Catch up with my computing before the sun gets hot and Steve gets up.  Chat to Vernon & Pam who come from England and would like to do a motorhome exchange there having already done one in Australia.  Grant has a computer with camera so spend time doing a video recording.  It’s set up inside his 33 foot bus which he built in 6 weeks as a motorhome.
BAY OF PLENTY SUN CLUB 2

Monday 3 April  Cloudy morning.  Leave mid afternoon heading up the coat to Papamoa.  Mike & Marion whom we met at Milford Sound live here.  At the moment they are living on site in their motorhome as they have just moved house New Zealand style.  They have a large section of land and have moved their original house from the middle of the site to the back.  It’s a big 3 bedroom property and we can hardly believe what they have done but the photographs convince us.  The building was jacked up and then a huge trailer slotted underneath.  Two trucks manoeuvred it to the new spot where it was lowered onto concrete blocks.  Brings a whole new meaning to mobile home.  They plan to build a property where the old one was and sell of the back part with house.  It’s a short walk to a shopping centre and also the nice sandy beach.  A Tiki tour follows and we head along the coast to Mount Maunganui known here simply as "the mount".  The big luxury beach front houses are fantastic and all very different.  The mount is a tourist resort with a few high rise apartment blocks and a campground.  It’s the done thing to climb the mount for the great views but it’s getting dark.  Back at their place we walk the plank to enter the house which is already in use.
PAPAMOA, MIKE & MARIONS

Tuesday 4 April  Mention to Marion that we are long overdue a dental appointment and shortly after Mike has lent us his car to drive to our appointment.  A Yorkshire accent greets us as dentist John is from Todmorden.  He attacks our scrape and polishes with exuberance and pronounces that Steve needs a filling which he does there and then.  $160 (£53) and just over an hour later we are dispatched having been instructed in the use of our electric toothbrush.  Tauranga is a big but nice town which we drive around and then back over the harbour bridge $1 (33p) toll to the mount intending to walk up.  Steve is feeling a bit woozy from the anaesthetic so I take a stroll and return with fish and chips.  By the time we have eaten them it is drizzling so we cancel the planned walk and return via the Bayview Shopping Centre. 
PAPAMOA 2, MIKE & MARIONS

Wednesday 5 April  A brighter morning and with Marion we head to the beach.  At low tide you can dig tuatuas out of the sand and after half an hour we have enough for Steve to eat but are advised to soak them overnight in salt water.  Mike has booked us in at a garage in Te Puke for the van service and Transport Services seem to do a good job.  Leave Tauranga area and detour to Omokoroa Country Estate to visit Ian & Shirley fellow Nudvanners.  Can’t remember if I mentioned what N.Z. N.U.D.V.A.N. stood for (New Zealand Naturists United Driving Vans Anywhere Naturally). They live in a retirement home complex which surprises us as the houses are all quite big and luxurious.  There is a community complex with superb facilities – Swimming pool, hot tub, snooker, table tennis, library, piano and stage, dining room and kitchens, TV lounge and bar.  Outside are croquet and bowling greens and nearby a golf course.  Shirley used to be a music teacher and on Wednesday evenings plays the piano for resident’s sing song.  We catch the tail end and then all go for a swim.  It’s a beautiful centre all fitted out tastefully and luxuriously making you feel like you are on holiday.  Ian was in the theatre for many years and is quite famous around New Zealand for his opera singing.  He regales us with many tales and Shirley lends us one of the books she has written about her time working at a vets. 
OMOKOROA COUNTRY ESTATE, IAN & SHIRLEYS

Thursday 6 April  We all take a walk around the peninsula surrounded by beaches backed by fine houses.  Drizzle turns to rain so we head back.  Steve scoffs all 46 tuatuas for lunch pronouncing them "not bad at all".  Next time we’ll get more, cook them then preserve them in vinegar like cockles and mussels.  It’s a miserable day so we drive to a P.O.P. stop in Katikati on the same road as the naturist club.  Brian and Dutch Marianne Haworth have 4 boys ageing from 8 to 17.  They make us very welcome and for $5 (£1.65) we have power and use of a toilet and hot shower plus their outdoor pool should the weather improve.  3 years ago they did a toured Europe and visited Haworth near Keighley.
KATIKATI, POP

Friday 7 April  Torrential rain is forecast so with the offer of videos to watch and free access to the computer we stay put.  No rain and it turns into quite a pleasant warm but cloudy day. 
KATIKATI 2, POP

Saturday 8 April  Phone David who is off to work in Europe again despite outstanding community service punishment.  It’s hard to accept it but it’s his choice and he is fully aware of the consequences.  The weather man tells us the predicted rain has passed by New Zealand and the outlook is for a sunny weekend.  Drive 3km down the road to privately owned Katikati Naturist Club.  The $11 (£3.65) p.p.p.n powered site fee includes everything and as they have a washing machine I will surely get my money’s worth.  5 loads of washing on the line and the heavens open up.  The van begins to look like a Chinese laundry with washing strewn around and the fan blasting away.  Relax first with a game of pool and then a spell of hopping between the hot spa, cold outdoor swimming pool and the sauna.  Can’t believe our ears when the evening weather forecast says that we have had a dry but cloudy day in this area.  Does no one think to stick their heads outside where it is still bucketing down?  Will now either ignore the weather forecast or take it to mean the opposite of what they say.
KATIKATI 3, NATURIST CLUB 1

Sunday 9 April    Even more rain. Leave at noon and venture to Bowentown which would be a lovely spot with many fine beaches to choose from if it wasn’t raining!  The P.O.P. at Waihi Beach has closed down and the free camps in Waihi town are car parks adjacent to the main road.  Most of the fields look like small ponds and we hear that Tauranga has been flooded.  Press on to Whangamata to meet Stronach & Judy tomorrow (they have visitors tonight).  Drop upon a lovely P.O.P. run by Glyn & Jennie who have put a small hut in their garden with a shower, toilet, sink and power point for $6 (£2) a night.  Jennie works at the tourist office and offers plenty of good advice.  An evening watching T.V. which has to be turned up to overcome the sound of the rain on the roof.
WHANGAMATA, POP

Monday 10 April    A brighter morning.  Glyn proudly shows us the doll’s house he is building for his grand-daughter and also the sets he has made for the local theatre groups.  Drive around the town enjoying fine views from Pacific Heights.  Wangamata is almost an Island surround by a long harbour on one side, sea on another and an estuary on the third.  This makes for lots of lovely beaches.  Stop at the Moana Scenic Reserve for lunch before calling on Stronach & Judy.  Fellow naturists they are friends of Keith & Diana whom we met in Darwin. They make us most welcome and take us off on another Tiki tour.  Pauanui up the coast is the Coromandel’s answer to Port Grimaud in the south of France.  Enormous luxurious holiday homes back onto canals where equally enormous and luxurious yachts/boats are anchored still leaving space for the odd "Roller" or "Jag" at the front.  Talk about seeing how the other half live.  We could just afford to buy one of the land sections but that would be our limit and I don’t think a motorhome would look quite right on it.  Whilst sitting in he dining area enjoying our evening meal are spooked when the lounge curtains start to close – a sensor makes them open and close according to the light which is a great idea. 
WHANGAMATA 2, STRONACH & JUDYS

Wednesday 12 April  A beautiful morning and having joined Stronach & Judy for porridge and toast Stronach leaves for his bowling tournament.  We relax in a sun trap by the house.  After lunch Judy drives us to Opoutere naturist beach.  A steady 10 minute walk through pine forest brings you to a lovely long stretch of white sandy beach with naturists to the left and textiles to the right.  Manage a couple of hours sun before the clouds stop play.  Stronach has a computer and I spend far too long making use of it egged on by Stronach himself who wants to show me all the jokes and card facilities etc.
WHANGAMATA 3, STRONACH & JUDYS

Thursday 13 April  Heavy rain through the night but steadier by morning.  A last fix on the computer and then off again heading North.  Can’t believe we have only know Judy & Stronach for 2 days as we got on so well – yet another example of the splendid Kiwi hospitality.  In Tairua we drive up Paku Hill for the view but pass on the final climb as it would mean walking in the rain from the car park.  At Cooks Beach we have lunch at the Shakespeare Cliffs view point above Mercury Bay where Captain Cook anchored.  Problems visiting Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach, both only accessible 2 hours either side of low tide which is 7.30pm tonight and 8.15am tomorrow.  We now appreciate that "time and tide waits for no man".  Intermittent drizzle so park by Hot Water Beach to wait until low tide when we can dig our own hot pool in the sand.  I stroll down the beach at 4.30pm and find a hive of activity with people already relaxing in pools.  Back for Steve and our shovel.  Time for action and having wiggled our feet in the sand and scalded our toes we know where to dig.  It’s a bit of a battle as the big waves can break the wall down before it is high enough.  A man with a big spade offers to help and in no time we have our pool.  The underground 60C hot water spring runs in a small channel here and having tapped into the source we adjust the temperature with the cold sea water.  5 of us wallow in our own pool amidst clouds of steam.  There must be 100 people spread between a linked network of around 20 pools.  It starts drizzling again but it is quite pleasant and it’s also nice to dash into the cold sea then back into the hot pool.  You have to be careful as you climb into the pool as some areas of sand are too hot to stand or sit on.  Had planned to stay here after dark looking up at the stars but clouds rule that out.  Back to Hahei to Cathedral Cove car park.
HAHEI, CATHEDRAL COVE CAR PARK

Thursday 13 April  On the track by 7.30am for the 40 minute walk to Cathedral Cove (completed in 20 minutes).  It’s a fantastic day with clear blue skies and already hot enough to strip off and run into the sea.  There are no footprints to be seen and we have the place to ourselves.  At low tide you walk from the first beach through a huge rock arch to enter Cathedral Cove.  It’s a magic place with fine soft white sand, turquoise sea and unusual rock formations just off shore.  It looks like the pictures I have seen of Phuket in Thailand.  Back on the first beach we find a cave and a cold freshwater waterfall where Steve showers. Gemstone Beach was named when precious stones were found there under the huge boulders but we much prefer sandy Cathedral Cove.  Stronach & Judy have passed us on to the their friends Geoff & Dawn who live down Golf Road in Whitianga.  They have an ideal property adjoining the golf course but with their paddock separating them giving them privacy and safety from stray balls.  Dawn’s playing in a bowls tournament so Geoff greet us.  A fellow naturist he has us in the car and down to Otama Beach in no time.  Another beautiful beach with sand so clean it squeaks (actually because of the high silica content).  Pohutukawa trees are profuse in this area and we are amazed at their powers of survival. We see upside down trees half embedded in the sand.  The roots are exposed at the top of the cliff from where they have fallen yet still they grow. After a suitable sunbathe Geoff drives us over the hill to Opito Bay which is also lovely but backed by many houses.  Otama Beach is back by a bird sanctuary which we think is nicer.  Kuaotunu stores do huge ice creams for only $1.20 (40p) and I sample the jelly tip flavour.  Return for Geoff to put the meat in the oven whilst Steve & I fester beside the swimming pool.  At around 6.00pm a black Labrador appears at the door and nudges it open with his nose.  Jimbo lives next door but visits every evening and morning.  He likes company but is not allowed inside his own house. Geoff & Dawn have a soft spot for him as he’s a young dog but crippled with arthritis.  Dawn returns and we are soon enjoying a roast dinner with the nicest lamb (not strong or fatty) I have ever eaten.  It’s from their son’s farm and they say it is how good lamb should taste. 
WHITIANGA, GEOFF & DAWNS

Friday 14 April  Another nice morning so we all set off in Dawn’s car for a drive along the coast towards New Chums Beach.  You have to walk from Whangapoua but we can’t make it round the rocks so "settle" for another visit to Otama Beach.  Have to pass Kuaotunu store en route and  I opt for a cornet of cookies & cream with boysenberry and cream on top, Dawn has hokey pokey, Geoff vanilla and Steve steak & cheese (in the form of a hot pie!).  Having sunbathed and strolled for a few hours Dawn mentions that we will leave when everyone is ready.  A little later a huge cloud rolls in and a cool breeze gets up so I say that I am ready when everyone else is.  Dawn dresses and we then have to listen to half an hour of the "lads" whinging about being dragged off the beach whilst they were asleep. Of course by the time we reach the car the sun is out again. Geoff is like Steve and they milk it for all it’s worth.  Dawn is like me and the two of us have another ice cream.  Mine’s hokey pokey (pieces of butterscotch in vanilla) and gold rush (chunks of chocolate coated Crunchie bar in caramel ice cream).  The lady says she will have more flavours tomorrow!  Backgammon tournament in the evening with us all playing each other and me lucky enough to win overall.  Jimbo returns having been sent home at tea time and they have great difficulty persuading him to leave.  Thought at once stage we might end up with him in the van!  
WHITIANGA 2, GEOFF & DAWNS

Saturday 15 April  The narrow winding road leads over the Tokatea heights, where past mining has left a maze of workings.  Drop down to Coromandel Town which developed following the 1869 Tokatea gold strike.  Its a quaint and pretty old town with no traffic lights just one pedestrian crossing linking the doctor’s with the pharmacy!  3km further is Driving Creek Railway and potteries.  $12 (£4) for the 1 hour round trip on New Zealand’s only narrow-gauge mountain railway.  Geordie Barry Bickell is a potter who discovered excellent clay on his land then built the railway to get it down the hill to the kiln.  He extended the railway to take paying passengers to finance his pottery.   Tunnels, viaducts, 2 spirals and 3 reverses take us to the ridge with magnificent views.  We pass sculptures hidden in the forest, embankments made of bottles and fancy brick walls.  Shame we are not here for the sunset BBQ trip.  Down the coast we venture a short way on the dangerous "309" track.  Waiau Waterworks where whimsical wonders are worked by water is wonderful.  $6 (£2) to roam around the gardens with amusing and educational gadgets and playthings all worked by water.  Steve meets his waterloo in a battle of water canons against a couple of kids.  I am fascinated by the very accurate water operated clock.  The coast is very different here with rocky or shingly beaches and the road having dropped from the hills follows the winding coast.  Steve stops to buy a dozen shelled oysters for $7 (£2.35).  Ron & May’s P.O.P. in Te Puru is our stop – $3 (£1) with power. They live in a bungalow with only a grassy reserve seperating them from the beach.  Whilst joining them for a drink neighbour Lawrence calls to borrow their boat to get his fishing nets in and before I know it Steve is in the boat with him.  No catch but he re sets the nets and asks Steve to go out with him in the morning, recommends a local fish & chip shop, invites us to his house this evening and offers use of his computer.  Trouble finding Lawrence’s house in the dark as Steve only saw it whilst out on the boat.  Spend considerable time skulking round the neighbourhood looking very suspicious as we walk up drives and then spot the wrong people in the houses!  Eventually find him and spend hours on the computer as he show us his high tech equipment. Lawrence is Malaysian but has a New Zealand wife Karen (in bed early following a hen party) and boys Reuben 4 and Meyer 2.  Meyer joins us in the computer room and reminds us very much of Daniel.  
TE PURU, POP

Sunday 16 April  A good catch – 7 flounder, 2 snapper, plus a hammer head shark and mullet. Lawrence fillets the snapper and gives it to us along with a couple of flounder – amazing.  Back to the fish & chip shop at Boomerang Store.  $1.40 (45p) for a huge 2 flavour ice cream cone – caramel swirl and goody gum drops with loads of wine gums in.  Quick shop in Thames then round the coast to a nice beach spot just south of Kaiaua.  Good for an afternoon sunbathe on the shell beach and an overnight stay.
BEACH S OF KAIAUA

Monday 17 April  A lovely morning for continuing up the coast detouring round the headland at Clevedon.  Get our first views of the sky tower in Auckland.  Nudvanners Des & Margaret live in Howick.  Margaret greets us and in no time we are off on a Tiki tour.  Howick is now often referred to as Chowick because of the large numbers of Chinese living here.  The shopping complex has restaurants representing almost all the Asian countries.  Fine views from Musick Hill with the local radio station.  Drive past many of the local beaches then settle for Mellons Bay with the nudist section.  They are having a temporary problem with seaweed on the Howick coast and the smell is not too good when the wind changes direction.  Return to meet Des, eat and plan for tomorrow.
HOWICK, DES & MARGARETS

Tuesday 18 April    Des drops Margaret and us off at Auckland Harbour for the 10.00am Fullers Waiheke Island ferry $23 (£7.60) return trip. For an extra $2 (65p) we buy the return crossing to Half Moon Bay near Howick.  $11 ($3.60) for the 1 1/2 hour commentated scenic highlights bus tour which includes public transport for the rest of the day.  The weather deteriorates on the 35 minute crossing restricting our views.  Arrive at Matiatia Bay then tour round the main settlements and bays.  It’s a popular Island with a very small bach (New Zealand holiday home) having recently been sold on Onetangi Beach for $440,000 (£146,000).  Stop in Oneroa and brave the beach before catching the 3.00pm ferry back to Auckland.  Discover we could have taken the Subritski ferry from Half Moon Bay for $20 (£6.30) return or the Pacific from Auckland at $14 (£4.60) return and still used the bus tour option!  Stroll around the America’s Cup Village before taking the Half Moon Bay ferry.  Des & Margaret’s daughter Sharon joins us for tea. 
HOWICK 2, DES & MARGARETS

Wednesday 19 April  Continue round the coast to visit Kelly Tarlton’s Arctic Encounter centre.  $22 (£7.30) includes a ride to visit live penguins in their own world of real ice and snow and a moving conveyer through a glass sea tunnel aquarium amongst other attractions.  Emerge to heavy rain so we head straight over the harbour bridge to Devonport.  Originally a 4 lane bridge the Japanese built 2 extra lanes to clip onto each side hence it’s nickname of the Nippon clip on bridge!  We met Jenny, Ron and daughter Rhonda in December 1998 in Spain when they were spending 1 year discovering Europe in a motorhome.  Check out the village before parking on their drive.  Son Jeffrey is at home with his friend fellow traveller Louis from South Africa   It’s great to see everyone again and we don’t know where to start as we all have so much to ask and tell.  Phone Mick & Shirley in Wales whom we were also all with in Spain.  Again it’s great to be with like minded people.
DEVONPORT, JENNY & RONS

Thursday 20 April  Drive to Devonport port in Jenny’s car and with Louis for company.  The Auckland Day pass at $7 (£2.60) gives all day use of city buses and ferries.  Back to the America’s Cup Village for a proper look before boarding the Link Loop Bus to get us to the Auckland Domain Museum.  Entry by donation to the museum which like many in New Zealand covers many things including New Zealand at war, Natural history, Decorative art, Pacific pathways and a Maori section.  While away a couple of hours then continue on the Loop bus for a sightseeing tour before getting off to visit the sky tower.  $14 (£4.60) to the Observation Deck and an extra $3 (£1) to the highest viewing point of the Sky Deck is worthwhile.  Magnificent 360 degree views are our reward and on the main observation level you can scare yourself by walking on the glass floor and looking straight down to the streets below.  Heading back to the ferry we catch sight of some tourists going up in the bungy Rocket.  Looks fun but at $35 (£11.60) seems expensive lasting only a few minutes.  Tomorrow all 7 of us are off to the bach on Great Barrier Island so much preparation is needed.  Ron pops out for fish & chips and comes back with 2 portions each which are so delicious that we finish them all.
DEVONPORT 2, JENNY & RONS

Friday 21 April  Up at 6.30am to catch the 7.30am ferry to Auckland.  Neighbour David helps shuttle us and mountains of luggage to the port.  Barrier is very remote and although goods are available on the Island they are very expensive.  Despite the island having no power or running water it has about 1000 permanent residents.  Jenny buys concession books of 10 tickets making the return crossing $70 (£23.30) instead of $90 (£30).  Arrive in Auckland amidst chaos.  Fullers largest ferry has broken down and they are re allocating the remaining ones.  We are eventually crammed onto a smaller slower catamaran and underway by 8.20am.  Baggage is piled everywhere and the route is now taking us via 2 other ports making the normal crossing of just over 2 hours into a choppy one of over 4.  Arriving at the first stop Port Fitzroy the tannoy asks for "larger men to gather and form a chain to pass the baggage off"! Into Whangaparapara before arriving at Tryphena in torrential rain.  Ron & Louis walk to collect the Land Rover and by the time they return the rain has eased off which is good as our luggage has to go on the roof.  We pile in for our journey over to Medlands Beach on the other side of the Island.  Feel like we have arrived in another country.  Views are limited but we can make out the bach up the hillside with a new one recently built in front.  Cross a stream then plough up a steep winding hill and finally into a very muddy track.  The Land Rover comes to a halt and we hop out ankle deep in mud and begin unloading.  Jenny warned us the bach was very basic and small but we find a good sized lovely wooden cottage which even has a bathroom with a toilet (all be it a composting version).    It’s a great spot and in no time the "kids" are off surfing on the beach whilst we unpack and settle in.  Lighting is a mixture of candles, torches, gas and kerosene lanterns.  Food is cooked on the gas stove, gas BBQ or the wood burner.  Wind up the evening with a game of bush rummy before climbing up to join Jenny & Ron who are also sleeping on air beds in the loft.
BARRIER ISLAND, MEDLANDS BEACH

Saturday 22 April  After a rainy night we wake to a brighter morning which enhances the fine views over the bay.  A morning stroll along the length of the beach whilst the youngsters are collecting mussels for tea.  Rain starts later which makes the walk down the muddy hill even more interesting.  Drive to Claris where the group "The Young Lovers" are performing at the social club – $7 (£2.60) admission.  Rugby is on the T.V. which passes the time until the band starts.  We have been told they are going to play Rock and Roll but it is the strangest type we have ever heard.  We think they are awful and the only people applauding are the band’s girlfriends.  Stick it out but when Jeffrey comes over to say they have got themselves a lift back we make a break.  Pick up a lad hitching who had paid $30 (£10) to taxi with his mates from Tryphina but can’t stand the music and is walking alone for 3 hours to get back. At least we can shorten his walk.  It’s high tide and the stream is fast flowing so Ron gets out to check it over.  As he walks through the water we see a mystical sparkling effect called phosphoresecence.  Make it through in the Land Rover then take our shoes off to waddle up to the bach as it is too muddy to take the vehicle nearer.  It’s bliss to sit around the fire with a drink listening to our type of music at the right volume – if this is getting old then we definately are!
BARRIER ISLAND 2, MEDLANDS BEACH

Sunday 23 April  Start the morning with a plate of assorted Easter Eggs for breakfast – yummy.  It’s a dull miserable day so I  join Jenny & Ron to drive to the shops at Claris.  Stepping onto the mud slide I lose my balance and very un gracefully sit down amidst much laughter.  Clean up in the stream before continuing.  Ron adds a scenic tour to Windy Canyon but it’s not the weather for doing the walk.  Pick up 2 drowned English lads on the way back.  At the supermarket I can’t resist buying a pack of cones and tub of "mud puddle" flavour ice cream for us all to share.  Mussels make up part of the meal again and Steve thinks he’s in heaven.  An hillarious game of Scattergories winds up the evening.
BARRIER ISLAND 3, MEDLANDS BEACH

Monday 24 April  Ron has started to make a path using mussel shells so I continue it and try to make patterns with them.  Ron goes diving and returns with a lovely crayfish (lobster).  Steve & I sunbathe on the beach behind Shark Alley then I stroll along the main beach with Jenny.  There’s a good view from the top of Memory Rock half way along.  Seafood supper with crayfish, mussels in batter, mussels in chilli sauce, mussels in garlic sauce and paua all caught fresh today.  The family keep a type of diary/visitors book in the bach and it’s obvious when reading it that they all feel it’s the best place in the world.   Steve says he would love it in the summer but my comfort level is a little higher although we have loved our short visit and felt privaledged to share a genuine New Zealand bach experience with lovely people.
BARRIER ISLAND 4, MEDLANDS BEACH

Tuesday 25 April  It’s a nice morning and Steve leaps out of bed to go snorkelling.  Enjoy sitting on the deck reading until it clouds over.  Pack everything up to drive back to Tryphena for the 4.00pm ferry.  A very fast and smooth crossing gets us back in Auckland just after 6.00pm.  Spend the evening looking at Rhonda’s, Jenny’s and finally Ron’s photos of their trip around Europe.  This brings about mixed feelings of home sickness, happy memories and the realisation that there is very much more that we have yet to explore.
DEVONPORT

Wednesday 26 April  A sunny morning –  perfect for washing the muddy clothes.
DEVONPORT

Thursday 27 April  A beautiful day and we head North hugging the coast.  Long Bay is a lovely scenic reserve with lots of picnic areas.  We walk North along the shore past Granny’s Bay to Puhutekawa Bay which is clothing optional.  A lovely bay with a soft sandy beach, clear blue sea and pretty scenery.  Return via the cliff top walk with great views to the many islands in this area.  Nudvanner Peter lives on Whangaparaoa peninsula and once again we are off on a Tiki tour.  Shakespear Park is a great spot for beaches, walks and camping.  Golf Harbour a very posh area with a double 18 hole golf course and marina area in mediteranean style.  We stop at the smaller marina further round and have a drink in the local bar.  Someone brings out a fish on a plaque and when you press a button it starts singing and wagging it’s tail and at appropriate moments turns it’s head towards you – absolutely brilliant.  Next stop the local Indian restaurant where we have our first curry in months – good but not as good as the Keighley Balti’s.
WHANGAPARAOA, PETERS

Friday 28 April  Call for Peter’s friend Terry then drive down to the marina.  Peter gets into the wooden rowing boat whilst we pile into the dinghy.  He rows us through the yachts to his trimaran "Lady Victoria".  Up the Wade River and towards the islands where we anchor to fish.  Try a number of different spots but it’s cloudy and windy and not the weather for persevering so we return even though it’s only the second time they haven’t caught anything.  It was still good to see the coastline from the shore as there are dramatic clifffs with lots of caves below.  In the evening we visit Julie the daughter of our friend Clare from Spain.  She lives in a lovely wooden 3 level house overlooking the Wade River.  Meet the children Lucy and Emily but her husband Graham is out.  The girls are fascinated to hear about our lifestyle.  Julie comes from Yorkshire but married a New Zealander after doing a lot of travelling so we find the conversation very interesting.  It’s incredible that when we first thought to visit New Zealand our only contact was through Barbara & Malcolm whom we met in Turkey and now we have over 4 A4 pages of new friends here.
WHANGAPARAOA 2, PETERS

Saturday 29 April  It’s Peter’s 49th birthday and we have been invited to his party tonight.  It’s a beautiful day and had it not been cloudy first thing we would have gone out on the boat again.  Steve seems to be going down with the ‘flu which I am just shaking off.  People start arriving at 5.00pm and it’s a mixture of friends, neighbours and members of the singles club.  Everyone brings a side dish to go with the meat which is being cooked on the BBQ.  Peter has a karaoke system and as the evening progresses a few stars emerge.  Steve dissapears into the van whilst I’m one of the last to leave just after midnight having stayed to lend a hand with the clearing up.
WHANGAPARAOA 3, PETERS

Sunday 30 April  Follow Peter to Hisbiscus Sun Club at Orewa. They are holding a chicken on the spit roast $10 (£3.30) and there’s a good attendance of about 30 people, half members and half visitors.  Des & Margaret from Howick surprise us by turning up.  It’s a cloudy day and only the people around the BBQ fire find it warm enough to un robe, good job sausages are not on the menu or we could end up with a few extras!  Anyway the food is excellent with heaps of it and beer, wine and soft drinks included.  After desert it’s all hands to the pump in the kitchen where I have trouble on my washing up stint keeping up with 3 dryer upers.  I use the left overs to concoct an evening meal which we share with Peter and the club president Jim.  Having already visited Southland Sun Club which was the most Southern sun club in New Zealand (and the world) we are now at New Zealand’s most Northern one.  Again the club is struggling to keep going with only about 30 members compared to a peak of 170.  We enjoy the small clubs (and cheaper fees – only $8/£2.60 a night) although we also like the saunas and hot tubs at the big ones.
OREWA, HISBISCUSSUN CLUB

Wednesday 1 March 2000  Commence our walking tour in the civic square at the Lego exhibition $3 (£1).  We are the only adults other than school teachers but I enjoy it anyway.  It’s a busy city and we are surprised to see so many people in suits.  Even in Perth the majority of people wore shorts.  It’s a friendly city and each time I study the map someone offers assistance.  The old cable car $1.50  (50p) takes us up to the Botanical Gardens with great views over the city.  Make our way to the Tree House visitor centre then down through the Herb garden where I chat to 4 ladies from Wakefield.  Round the rose gardens and out to the Parliament Grounds.  Parliament house is rather grand and we book a guided tour for 2.00pm leaving time to nip to the National Library first for great freshly squeezed orange juice, huge slice of chocolate cake with cream and for Steve a pot of tea all for only $8 (£2.70).  The tour is interesting and ends just as question time is starting.  Sit on the balcony and recognise Jenny Shipley the ex prime minister, Helen Clark the current prime minister and also one of the members who has had a sex change operation.  We saw her on T.V. when "she" made a speech about being the stallion who became a gelding, rose to be a mare (mayor) and has now achieved full member status.  Adjoining Parliament House are the Parliamentary Library on the right and offices on the left in a building fondly known as the Beehive.  Opposite we enjoy a huge portion of fish and chips from Wellington Fish Supplies $3 (£1) which is popular with the "Fish & Chip Brigade" politicians.  Next door the Backbenchers Pub has walls decorated with huge satirical puppets of politicians, political cartoons and memorabilia.  Into the High Court and then to the wooden Government Buildings which were built in the 1870’s to look like stone.  Back across the Parliament grounds to the modern Cathedral which has only just been finished and lacks character.  Down towards the waterfront to visit the original old St Paul’s which is much more to our liking with wooden beamed ceilings.  Into the National Archives to look at the famous Waitangi Treaty leaving just the Railway Station on our list.  Detour to Espressaholic in Courtney Place for the recommended hot chocolates.  For $4.50 (£1.50) you get the most enormous hot chocolate in a cup that looks more like a bowl.  Back at the van Malcolm’s (Turkey, Yorkshire & Nelson) Mum & Dad, Gwen & Roger call to take us on a Tiki tour.  Great view from Victoria Hill which saves us the fun climbing up the narrow winding streets in the camper van.  Round the Oriental Bay peninsula we see magnificent houses on the hill side with their own tramways for access.  Roger points out Jonah Lomu’s home.  There are dozens of dolphins in the bay and we pause to watch them at play.  Return to their house in Ascot Street which is an extremely narrow winding street with houses from the mid 1800’s.  They take us to their local the Shepherds Arms where the Guinness, Hot Chocolate and Spicy Wedges go down well.  Back to the van at 10.30pm having arranged to meet them again when we come back through at the end of May.
WELLINGTON 2, TE PAPA MUSEUM CAR PARK

Thursday 2 March  The motorway North out of town has been constructed on the uplift from the last earthquake which formed a ridge 1m high.  Upper Hutt is our destination to visit the Wellington Sun Club at "Five acres".   $15 (£5) for a powered site in the spacious grounds.  Facilities include 2 swimming pools, sauna, spa, miniten and badminton courts and indoor bowls. It’s a hot day and we make the most of it.  Danish couple Christina and Per join us in the sauna and afterwards for a drink and chat.  We get good T.V. reception and notice many English programmes but mainly old ones.  In Coronation Street Maxine is just getting ready to get married.  Have a chuckle watching the "1900 house" when they talk about having to do strip washes, no electricity, no hot water on tap and cooking big joints of meat to last all week – sounds just like us today!
UPPER HUTT, WELLINGTON SUN CLUB

Friday 3 March    Another really hot day.
UPPER HUTT 2, WELLINGTON SUN CLUB

Saturday 4 March  Yet another really hot day which brings many visitors to the club.  Steve joins a group for miniten and I take my exercise in the swimming pool.  Everyone gathers at 6.00pm for a communal BBQ followed by darts and indoor bowls in the huge club house.
UPPER HUTT 3, WELLINGTON SUN CLUB

Sunday 5 March  A cloudy start so we sit in bed watching "Noel’s House Party".  The clouds soon move on and it is hotter and busier than ever.
UPPER HUTT 4, WELLINGTON SUN CLUB

Monday 6 March  Wake up to solid cloud which is good as we had planned to move on today and good weather may have tempted us to stay.   Into Upper Hutt for some shopping and also for Pizza Hut Lunch Works except this time we have a voucher on the back of our shopping docket and get 2 for 1 of the $8.95 (£3) all you can eat.  Over the Rimutaka Hills to Featherstone then out to the coast to see the Putangirua Pinnacles.  Park at the D.O.C. camp $5 (£1.60) for overnight camping.  Walk for 1 hour following the river bed to get to a valley full of pinnacle shaped massive rocks.  Heavy rain has eroded the soft earth/rock but in some places boulders shielded the earth and have become caps for the pinnacles.  Spend ages just wandering round exploring with the place to ourselves and the sun light making the rocks look different colours.  Walk back to the van which is parked opposite some small pinnacles and with a view of the ocean.
PUTANGIRUA PINNACLES

Tuesday 7 March  A drizzly start as we leave and head to Masterton.  Anna & The King is at the cinema $8  (£2.65) and we catch the 1.30pm showing and enjoy it but thought it lacked depth.  Out towards the coast to visit Castlepoint stopping just before it at a P.O.P. behind the Whakataki Hotel where Steve samples the beer whilst I cook tea.
CASTLEPOINT, POP BEHIND WHAKATAKI HOTEL

Wednesday 8 March  Another drizzly start to the day so we drive the last 4km down the coast to Castlepoint.  What a great place.  A huge rocky reef runs close to the shore with a lighthouse at one end and a massive rock at the other end.  Captain Cook thought the rock was shaped like a Castle which is why he named it Castlepoint.  Horses are trotting along the beach in readiness for Saturday’s Beach Race Meeting. Walk along the cliff and up to the top of Castle Rock where the views over the reef, Deliverance Cove and Christmas Bay are excellent. Scramble down to the beach and walk back around Deliverance Cove as the tide is going out.  Waves still lap in over the lower part of the reef but it has left an area like a paddling pool which would be great for children to play in.  Fishermen clamber onto the reef and many go out on boats.  Bite of lunch before exploring along the reef below the lighthouse as at low tide you can get as far as some sea caves.  Spot some Black Shag birds as we clamber over the rocks.  Into the cave with our torches.  The waves roar in and the wind gusts through as the cave goes right through the reef.  There’s an awful smell so we have a quick look then leave.  The area under the lighthouse is severely eroded and concrete has been poured down the cliff face to retain it.  Back to the P.O.P. where we are parked on the back lawn overlooking the golf course.  Steve goes into the bar to catch the English Footie highlights which is another term for having a beer.
CASTLE POINT 2, POP BEHIND WHAKATAKI HOTEL

Thursday 9 March  A glorious day so we walk the 1km or so to Whakataki Beach and enjoy a few hours sunbathing.  Coming back along the beach at low tide we see some Paua (Abalone) shells whilst rock pooling.  Steve collects some as we have seen them polished up and they look fantastic.  Back at the hotel owner Kerri shows Steve how to get the meat out of the shell and prepare it for cooking.  We end up with a good 1/2" thick steak out of each shell which Kerri recommends cooked in garlic butter.  Steve says they taste good but I reckon I enjoy my fried egg and chips equally well.  The inside of the shells is like pearl but the outside needs cleaning so I attempt soaking them in vinegar and stink the van out.  Both pop into the pub in the evening for a few drinks and to watch Coronation Street and the 1900 house.  Bit of a shock as it is the Coronation Street episode where Judy dies.
CASTLEPOINT 3, POP BEHIND WHAKATAKI HOTEL

Friday 10 March   Dry but cloudy day and perfect for a round of golf.  $6 (£2) for 18 holes plus $5 (£1.65) to hire a set of clubs.  Holes vary in length from 102m – 322m.  It’s a difficult course (for us) and Steve takes 132 to get round and loses 2 balls and I notch up a huge 160 and hang onto my balls (not sure what that tells you!). Don’t know where they get the 64 from which the card mentions!   Lots of riders arrive in the evening and most tether their horses outside the pub but one chooses to ride through the bar.
CASTLEPOINT 4, POP BEHIND WHAKATAKI HOTEL

Saturday 11 March  Our early start pays off as we get a prime parking spot directly behind the beach at Castlepoint.  It’s a hot but very windy day and soon the area is chock a block with cars and people setting up tables and chairs to watch the races.  First event is held right in front of us and involves children riding sheep rodeo style.  One lad stays on for so long that they have to ask him to get off!  A call is put out for a Doctor as one of the horses has thrown their rider and then fallen on them.  Fortunately it is later announced they are only suffering from concussion.  The main races kick off at noon with equaliser type betting.  For $1 (33p) you get an alphabetical ticket at random.  After the tote has closed they draw out letters and match them up with horse numbers.  You can also bet $1 on a double and for this our horse is "Clara Belle" which we would have chosen anyway.  She comes in first and entitles us to another drawn ticket for the next leg.  "Allatu" also romps home and results in an $80 (£26) pay out – best we have ever had and for such a small outlay.  As the afternoon progresses thistle down begins to blow in the wind to the extent that it looks almost like a snow storm.  (It’s a bit like the dead head of a dandelion).  Return for a celebratory drink in the heaving pub.
CASTLEPOINT 5, POP BEHIND WHAKATAKI HOTEL

Sunday 12 March  Back to Masterton where the National Highland Pipe Bands competition is being held.  Everyone says it is great so we pay our $10 (£3.30) admission fee.  Hundreds of competitors are roaming around in Scottish dress and it’s a serious business as the average price of the made to measure kilts alone is $750 (£250). In the first round loads of bands compete by marching in sequence followed by a round with mace throwing.  By this stage we are ready to throw the towel in as it just isn’t our scene although there were one or two highlights when the mace got dropped.  Sit through a brief respite when a brass band comes on but when the pipe bands return we decide it is not for us and make an exit.  Heading towards Napier we stop at the A.N.Z.A.C. Park near Norsewood which is grassy picnic and camping area surrounded by trees 500m from the road.  Perfect for an overnight stop.
NORSEWOOD

Monday 13 March  At Havelock North we drive up Te Mata Peak for spectacular far reaching views.  In 1931 a massive earthquake destroyed most of this area and the towns of Havelock North, Hastings and Napier had to be rebuilt.  Art Deco was in vogue at that time which has resulted in a very high concentration of that style building.  Check out Splash Planet which is a great water slide park but as it is just starting to drizzle we take a "rain check" on it.  Phone Jan whom we met at Aoraki and he comes in his van to escort us to his home in Napier.  After lunch he takes us on a Tiki tour starting with a visit to his friend’s orchard.  Fruit growing is a huge business here and we drive through an enormous orchard with trees bowing under the weight of the apples.  We fill three trays before rain sets in.  The owner also gives him two boxes of peaches and tells us his backpackers won’t work in the rain even though he pays them $9 (£3) an hour.  Jan takes us to some Art Deco buildings on the outskirts of the city which are magnificent.  At the old wharf the earthquake pushed the sea bed up by over 6 feet and the whole area now has to be dredged regularly.  Marine Drive with the colourful buildings reminds us of Miami Beach area in Florida.  
NAPIER, JANS

Tuesday 14 March   Get a serious fix on the computer but cannot get into the chat room with Netty, reckon if I had my own machine I would be hooked.  Jan lends us his small van to drive into the city which seems like a great help until we come to lock it and bend the key.  Steve gets another one cut and we set out on our walking tour.  I think the buildings are fantastic and end up lagging behind Steve taking lots of video.  The main city centre was almost completely wiped out by the 1931 earthquake and subsequent fires then rebuilt in the art deco style resulting in a concentration of pretty coloured and unusually shaped buildings.  When we get back we quiz Jan about the earthquake situation and from the computer he prints a list of the most recent ones.  There have been 9 since we arrived on the North Island ranging from 2.5 to 4.8.  Many were in the Taupo area where we are next heading – bit of a worry as they tell you to stand under a sturdy table or in an interior doorway and we don’t have either in the van.  We return to the van to go to bed and end up spending over 1 hour getting rid of some ants.  A carton of wine spilled in one of the cupboards and has seeped through to the floor which is where they are concentrated.  End up nearly choking ourselves with repellent spray.
NAPIER 2, JANS

Wednesday 15 March  It’s a brighter day and Jan drives us out to visit the Hawkes Bay Sun Club.  Only one other person is at the club and we manage a spell in the pool and some sunbathing between clouds.  Jan has a copy of the Michael Palin "Pole to Pole" episode of Australia and New Zealand which we really enjoy watching.  Had forgotten that he visited these parts but recognise almost all the places.  An even bigger ant problem in the van as they are now running alongside the bed.  Good job we bought another spray today.
NAPIER 3, JANS

Thursday 16 March    Leave Napier after lunch and drive just a few km up the coast to Whirinaki Beach.  At Castlepoint races we met motorhomers Graeme and Glennis and they asked us to call on them.  Over a drink they help us plan our route whilst enjoying the view from their window out to sea and across to Napier.
WHIRINAKI BEACH

Friday 17 March  Over the ranges to Taupo and much better weather.  Taupo Hot Pools offer thermal swimming pools, spa tubs and private pools all for $8 (£2.65).  The private pools consist of individual cabins with a plunge pool about 6′ x 12′.  You lock yourself in and can strip off to bathe.  The pools inside range from very hot, hot, not so hot down to warm and we sample them all.  While away a good few hours before driving into Taupo on Lake Taupo.  Last Friday there were two earthquakes 10km from here, one 2.5 and one 2.6 and they are also close enough to the volcanoes to be vulnerable to them as well.  Check out the town where we find that as it is St Patricks day the 17th at 1700 hours for 17 minutes beer will be 17c (6p) at the pub.   The beer is green and the system is that you can only buy drink and you have to drink it and re join the queue to get a refill.  Steve manages 4 drinks to my 2 and they even bring round free snacks of mini pies and potato wedges.  As Steve is bordering on the drink drive limit we take the van out to a P.O.P. in town and walk back to enjoy a meal at Rockerfellers before returning to the pub.  An Irish band are performing and the place is heaving, many people having been here since 1700 hours.  Lots of people have dressed up and there is a good atmosphere. 
TAUPO, POP

Saturday 18 March     North of town in Wairakei Tourist Park our first stop is Huka falls.  The Waikato River plunges through a narrow cleft in the rock, dropping 24 metres in all.  The Honey Hive has lots of information about apiaries which are very prevalent here.  Craters of the Moon is brilliant.  We walk for 1 hour on boardwalks through an active thermal area.  So active that 2 weeks ago it was closed due to an eruption.  We see steam oozing from fumeroles and bubbling pools of hot mud over a vast area.  Nearby the Volcanic Activity Centre $5 (£1.65) show videos and gives us lots of information but probably wasn’t worth the visit.  Prawn Park is the world’s only geothermally heated Prawn Farm and we sit by the River on a terrace to enjoy our meal.  Huge Prawn Burgers with wedges at $12.50 (£4.15) go down very well with a glass of wine.  The Huka Jet Boat provides entertainment doing "Hamilton’s" infront of us.  Wairakei Geothermal Visitor Centre puts us in the picture as to how the power stations are using natural thermal energy.  Huge towers eject steam and there are miles of steel tubes to be seen.  Aratiatia Dam completes our list of must do’s.  At 2.00pm they open the flood gates and the water fills up a pool and then begins to crash through a gorge creating waterfalls.  The weather is "scorchio" and the Naturist Club beckons.  Rotota is a very natural club in a thermal area.  $8 (£2.65) pp overnight but no electricity and they use rainwater for drinking, thermal water for other things and long drops as toilets.  It’s on the Banks of Lake Ohakuri which is great for swimming.  Wayne shows us the 22 acre grounds with hot streams, waterfalls and bush tracks.  We start by joining a group for afternoon drinks before cooling off in the lake.  The water is crystal clear and the bottom fine gravel.  A pontoon anchored off shore makes a great sunbathing terrace.  On the grass lawns they have made a concrete pool which they fill with the 60C thermal water to create a hot tub.  There’s a full moon and at night we venture out to the hot stream intending standing under the waterfall as we saw people do in the "Nude Zealand " publicity video.  We have 2 torches but one gives up within minutes and the other is pathetic.  It’s quite a walk and the last part is through dense bush and forest which is where we admit defeat.  Return to the hot tub which is full of bodies drinking wine and yes we hop in and join them.  What a great spot. 
ROTOTA NATURIST CLUB

Sunday 19 March  The clocks went back last night so we are now 12 hours ahead of GMT but this means it will by dark by 7.00pm – not so good.  Early clouds clear and we explore another track which takes us to a different hot pool in the stream with a big face carved in the rocks.  Retrace our steps to visit the waterfall.  It’s like a fairy grotto as you walk upstream and through a narrow chasm which opens out into a small hot pool.  Two waterfalls gush in and are lovely to stand under.  We also walk downstream and through another very long narrow area of high rocks which brings you to the lake side.  Just magical.  Walk up a hill on the lakeside with great views then back to the beach for more swimming.  The club have a skidoo which Steve takes a trip on whilst I enjoy the hot tub. 
ROTOTA NATURIST CLUB 2

Monday 20 March  Wake early to clear blue skies but find it doesn’t really warm up until 9.00am.  I try my hand in the skidoo on the lake and notice how much quieter it is without the weekend visitors.  In the afternoon David takes us for a hike which involves him using clippers to hack our way through the forest.  We emerge above the terraces of Orakei Korako a big thermal area also known as the Hidden Valley.  The coloured silica terraces remind us of Pammukale in Turkey and we also see hot pools and mud pools.  Early evening I join Peter from England in the hot tub to sip my glass of wine whilst watching the sun set.  Steve enjoys the peace and quiet having the van to himself!
ROTOTA NATURIST CLUB 3

Tuesday 21 March  Depart after dinner heading to Te Kuiti.  Our scenic journey takes us past the exact centre of the North Island.   At the start of Te Kuiti we stop at a junction with a 6 metre statue of a sheep sheerer on one corner, a Maori marae on the other and a Japanese Garden opposite.  It’s a pleasant small town where we do E-mailing and pick up tourist info before retracing our steps to a spot 3km South of town.  Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve is a great free camping spot by the river with picnic tables, BBQ’s and toilets.  Spend the evening chewing over our many options for visiting Waitomo Caves.
MANGAOKEWA SCENIC RESERVE

Wednesday 22 March  It’s a dull drizzly day so we opt for the Long Tomo Rafting 5 hour trip at $65 (£21).  Meet our guide Caroline at the Waitomo Visitor Centre and along with Dutch Kitty and Malaysian Alan and Corrine we rattle along for 20 minutes in a clapped out mini bus onto Mason’s property.  A primitive hut has tarpaulin to segregate male and female changing.  (We booked the $65 trip as opposed to the $125 one and were told you get what you pay for but the safety standards are not compromised.)  Struggle into wet suits, thick socks, wellington boots and over trousers.  Looking like tramps we re board the bus to venture further.  Walk over fields to a dunny type shed to be fitted with abseiling harnesses and helmets with lights.  We then attach ourselves to ropes for an abseiling practice.  Now for the real thing and we clamber to a spot where the ground disappears revealing a huge hole with a stream in the bottom.  We take it in turns to be dangled over the hole and then lower ourselves 27m to the stream.  We control our own descents and try going quickly or so we think until we see Caroline descend in about 2 seconds.  Removing our harnesses we are given a black tyre inner tube and head upstream until we reach a wide cavern.  Sitting on the bank with our lights off we learn about the glow worms which illuminate the area like hundreds of Christmas lights.  In darkness we float downstream on our tubes as if in a grotto.  Venture further downstream with our lights on to marvel at the stalactites, stalagmites and fossils in the rocks.  At one point we reach a waterfall and are instructed to stand on the top facing backwards, hold the tube under our bottoms and jump off.  Steve goes first and immediately capsizes but the rest of us manage OK  Drop off the tubes as the stream gets shallow and proceed on foot to a cavern where we see a big eel amongst the rocks.  Sit down and enjoy hot orange juice and chocolate.  Next we climb to the top of the rocks to do some proper caving.  This involves squeezing through very small gaps to enjoy some magical sights.  Our final squeeze brings us full circle and we retrieve our tubes to drag them up steam.  The tough part comes when we realise that we will have to climb up the rock face.  Caroline goes first and throws down a support line which I attach to my harness.  It’s tough going as the rock is sheer and damp and although not required I am glad of the safety support.  Return to the base hut to share the single hot shower and tidy ourselves up.  A  good value black water rafting trip, no frills but plenty of thrills.  It’s now 2.30pm so we head on the scenic route stopping first to walk to Mangapohue Natural Bridge.  Two limestone arches span the Mangapohue River and Stalactites can be seen when you stand under the upper arch.  Walking back on the loop track we pass limestone rocks with large oyster shell fossils embedded.  Well that’s what the sign says but it just looks like white chips in the rock!  Piripiri Caves have a large cavern known as the "Oyster Room" but cannot explore without decent torches.  Final scenic stop Marokopa Falls where the track takes us through native bush to the edge of the river to view the greywacke bluff with towering falls.  Turning North we enjoy great views of the ocean en route to Kawhia.  Stop at Operau Mobil service station for fuel and realise it is a P.O.P. stop.  Owner Bill is exceptionally friendly and points out a good spot to park then invites us in for coffee.  With his wife Brenda they run the petrol station, a cafe, bakery and the mini market.  We mention that we were heading to Kawhia to see the hot pools in the beach and Bill leaps up for the paper and announces that it is now low tide and to hop in the truck and he will take us.  It’s starting to get dark as we scramble over the dunes to emerge on a wide beach of dark sand.  We hop in and out of pools and wiggle our toes into the sand to find that some are warmer than others but none really hot.  Suddenly realise that it has got quite dark and we have trouble finding the spot where we came over the dunes as none of us has a torch.  Eventually find our original footprints in the sand and retrace our steps enjoying a Tiki tour of Kawhia on the way back.  Sample some of Brenda’s "World famous" pies and have to agree they are exceptionally good.  Steve has wild duck and I have steak and onion $2 (65p) each. Bill has brought out a bottle of Rum for us to try and when a customer brings in a bucket of shellfish he cooks them to go with it.  Steve & Bill demolish dozens of pipis whilst I sample the sausage rolls and quiche as Brenda takes them out of the oven.  Steve then brings in the Whiskey.  These must be the most friendly people we have met in New Zealand and offer us use of the Internet and anything else they have which we may need.  Bill does a School Bus run and invites us to join him in the morning so with that in mind we manage to get away just before 11.00pm for an early night!
OPERAU MOBIL GARAGAE, POP

Thursday 23 March  We are woken at 6.30am by a plane barnstorming us.  Peer through the window to see it crop spraying the field behind.  Into the garage where Bill & Brenda have been hard at it since 5.00am.  Brenda supplies us with toast and coffee and at 7.30am we clamber aboard the school bus.  Over the next hour and a quarter we trundle up tracks to farms to pick up a total of 8 children.  The school has 38 pupils, 2 teachers and takes them to 11 years when they have to go to boarding school.  Return to the garage to do our E-mail, put in more fuel, buy gas and a stock of pies.  They are such nice people that we are glad to give them our business but wouldn’t like to have their 7 day a week 17 hour a day business.  Regency Park is Allan and Maxine’s motorhome business.  They built the motorhome belonging to Wendy and Geoff whom we met last year in Perth and have also built one for themselves.  They planned to drop out and travel but their son was involved in a serious motorcycle accident last year and is still in hospital with a poor long term future.  All very sad.  Near Whatawhata (so good they named it twice?) Ray and Lyn are hosting a Nudvan (naturists with motorhomes) rally over the weekend.  Phoning Lyn this morning she told us to let ourselves in and make use of the swimming pool which we do.  Ray arrives mid afternoon followed by Lyn and they make us very welcome.  Early evening Barbara and Warren arrive in their ex-rental van and we have a good chat.
WHATAWHATA, RAY & LYN’S

Friday 24 March    Ray takes us for a Tiki tour to Hamilton passing the huge Mormon temple en route to Waikato Sun Club.  Return to find new arrivals Peter in his home made bus and Ian & Shirley with a new van.  Afternoon trip to Raglan on the coast.  One of the world’s top surfing spots they even have a "Surf Academy".  Evening is spent congregated on the deck chatting.
WHATAWHATA 4, RAY & LYNS

Saturday 25 March  Throughout the morning vans roll up.  Peter & Sheila ex poms in a transit van, Bill & Gail in a standard van, Neil & Pauline without their van as it is 11m long a too big to fit.  Norm & Edna in a van with no access from cab to motorhome and Maurie & Ros with dog Rodney complete the scene making a total of 8 vans.  9 if you include Ray & Lyn’s parked in the shed.  Much viewing and discussion of the merits of different vans takes place.  A committee meeting is held in the afternoon whilst non members enjoy the swimming pool.  A scavenger hunt follows and produces much hilarity. Some of the things to be collected are an odd pair, a wet suit and a black hole – use your imagination as to what a group of naked people would improvise with.  Supper is a BBQ & Pot Luck affair where you all contribute a dish to be shared.  Dauphne & Michael and Ivan increase the numbers and a good time is had by all.
WHATAWHATA 3, RAY & LYNS

Sunday 26 March    BST kicks in which now puts us 11 hours ahead of UK time. Another glorious day to spend talking, exchanging names and addresses and making arrangements to meet up.  Following the communal lunch the vans start to leave until we are the only ones left. Ray says we can stay as long as we like but we want to visit someone in Hamilton tomorrow so one more night is enough.
WHATAWHATA 4, RAY 7 LYNS

Monday 27 March  Peter re appears to make the most of another hot day.  Prize ourselves away late afternoon to drive to Pauline & John’s.  John is a Yorkshire lad and knows a couple of our friends who bowl in Keighley.  Children Emma 9 and Laura 4 bound into the motorhome to explore.  We have a lovely meal followed by a long evening of drinking and story telling – feel like we have known them for ages.
HAMILTON,PAULINE & JOHNS

Tuesday 28 March  John’s not working today and easily talks Steve into a round of golf leaving me with the run of their house to catch up on business matters and washing.  In the afternoon we borrow John’s car to visit the Botanical Gardens.  There is an excellent carved wooden mural and equally good theme gardens from China, England, Japan, America and an Italian Renaissance one in the making.  We’ve volunteered to be baby-sitters for the night and I enjoy a spa bath whilst Steve takes over the remote control – once the kids are asleep.
HAMILTON 2, PAULINE & JOHNS

Wednesday 29 March  Return to the Waikato Sun Club $8 (£2.65) p.p.p.n where we have the grounds to ourselves. Alternate between sunbathing, playing miniten, the 9 hole putting course, reading and doing odd jobs.  Steve keeps disappearing with the golf club to practise his driving (definately learner driving) – reckon he could be getting addicted to golf.  A number of people arrive in the evening for the "Wednesday BBQ" and we join them in the clubhouse.
HAMILTON 3, WAIKATO SUN CLUB

Thursday 30 March  A rainy day so we stop briefly in Tirau to photograph the unusual tourist information centre.  Two tin sheds have had the ends sculptured to look like a dog and a sheep.  Heading into Rotorua we pause to look at "zorbing" but it is too tame for us.  They strap you inside a huge transparent ball which is padded with a type of bubble wrap for protection as you roll down a hill.  At Paradise Valley Springs $13 (£4.30) we pat one of the twin lion cubs born 8 weeks ago.  Max already weighs over 8kg and looks a bit of a handfull.  It’s not every day you get enter a lions cage, didn’t spot Daniel.  Rotorua is a major area for thermal activity and as you drive through the streets you can see steam escaping in the most unlikely places.  Wooden fence posts get scorched and tarmac on the road melts as eruptions break out.  On the edge of Lake Rotorua the beautiful Government Gardens have magnificent buildings and gardens.  At sulphur point we see (and smell) a thermal pool bubbling away at 212F.  On the edge of town Whakarewarewa (short for Whakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao) is a large thermal zone and Maori cultural area.  $16 (£5.30) to visit including loan of umbrellas and a guided tour. We view a school of Maori art where wood is being carved before visiting a replica Maori village to learn about the culture.  Onto a "Noddy" train to pass many bubbling mud pools and steaming fumeroles en route to the Pohutu geyser spurting hot water about 20 metres into the air.  Into the Kiwi house to view a couple of sleeping brush heads before retracing our steps through the park for a longer look around.  A stroll around town then at 5.00pm we join our Tamaki evening tour where we are listed as Mr & Mrs Footman.  $58 (£19) for transport, Hangi feast and cultural experience lasting 3 1/2 hours.  Coach driver Kuhi starts the entertainment on the coach which he calls our Waka.  We have to choose our "chief" and American Bill volunteers.  We are then versed in Maori protocol for entering a marae.  On arrival we gather for the challenge (Te wero) when warriors try to intimidate us with gestures and spear like weapon (Taiaha)  We have been warned not to laugh, smile or poke out our tongues.  A peace offering (Teka) is placed on the ground to be received by our chief Bill.  Next we enter the village (marae) to the accompaniment of a welcome call (Karanga).  In replica houses the people of the land (Tangata Whenua) demonstrate different items such as poi twirling, hand games, weaponry display and reciting chants. Into the big house (Wharenui) where only men may sit in the front row.  This is because if fighting were to occur between the home people and the visitors, the men would be the protectors.  The men make all the welcome speeches (Whaikorero) and the pressing of the noses (hongi) is performed by our chiefs and the Tangata Whenua to seal the friendship.  The Rangi-a-Tea Cultural group of 6 men and 6 women then perform a variety of Waiata, Haka and Song and Dance to tell the stores of their race.  Into the food house (Wharekai) for our earth oven (Hangi) meal.  Rocks are heated white hot with native timber then put into a pit.  Baskets of food are put on the stones then covered with wet cloths followed by earth and left for 3 to 4 hours.   This gives an unusual smokey taste to the potatoes, kumara (sweet potato), carrots, stuffing, smoked fish, mussels, chicken, pork and lamb.  Dessert is steamed ginger sponge with caramel sauce, custard and cream – delicious. Our meal ends with a closing ceremony (poroporoaki) before we return to our coach.  Kuhi has memorised everyone’s name and which country they come from.  He calls out the name of a country then expects a representative to go to the front of the coach to sing.  All goes well with USA and Israel but when it gets to England no one responds.  He then calls out the name of two English ladies but they refuse to move. He threatens to stop the coach and when they still stay put he stops the coach at the side of the road.   Nothing happens so he drives on but says they will be the last to be dropped off as punishment!  Meanwhile in the back row we are crouched down in our seats.   He goes through all the countries then as we reach town he says "here’s one for England" and starts singing "She’ll be coming round the mountain when she comes" whilst driving round and round a roundabout!  What a laugh and an excellent evening of entertainment.  Ovenight at a P.O.P. stop in town.
ROTORUA, POP

Friday 31 March  A nice hot day.  On the outskirts of Rotorua we visit the church at Ohinemutu "the place of the young woman who was killed" named after Ihenga in memory of his daughter.  The historic Maori St Faith’s Anglican Church by the lakefront has a beautiful interior decorated with Maori carvings, woven tukutuku panels, painted scrollwork and stained glass windows.  Christ wearing a Maori claok is etched on a window so that he appears to be walking on the waters of Lake Rotorua which with a bit of imagination could resemble the Sea of Galilee.  South of Rotorua on the road to Taupo is Waiotapu thermal wonderland.  As we pay our $13 (£4.30) we are told that the famous Lady Knox geyser performs at 10.15 and is 5 minutes drive up the road.  This leaves us time to do the short 30 minute track.  It’s a colourful park with every tint and hue displayed in pools, lakes, craters, steam vents, mineral terraces and even the tracks we walk on.  Artist’s Palette lives up to it’s name as an area of many coloured hot and cold pools.  Champagne Pool is unique with a fifth of a hectacre of bubbling, hissing water, with a beautiful ochre-coloured petrified edge.  We had difficulty parking the van and ask about a shuttle bus to the geyser.  There isn’t one but someone in earshot offers us a lift.  Stephanie is an American, married to a Kiwi but living in Australia.  She has just bought a car for $400 (£130) but is struggling with the manual gearbox.  We kangaroo hop with much laughter to the geyser.  Many years ago prisoners working in the forest found a small pool with hot water and decided to wash their clothes in it.  As soon as they had put soap into the water it became an enormous eruption.  The soap had broken down the surface viscosity and released the built up tension.  Today soap is poured in every day at 10.15am to allow tourists to view the spactacle.  Without the soap it would erupt every 2 or 3 days naturally.  We await with anticipation as bubbles emerge followed by a huge spurt which will last for about 1 hour.  Back to the park to retrace our steps then continue into the 75 minute walk which is great.  We see blue and green lakes, silica terraces, hot water falls and alum cliffs amongst numerous other amazing sights.  Absolutely stunning and very different to the area we visited yesterday.  Driving back towards the main road we stop to look at an area with serious bubbling mud pools.  Next we detour to the little known Kerosene Creek favoured by back packers as a free thermal pool.  We walk into the forest alongside a cold water stream.  This is joined by a hot stream which later tumbles over a waterfall.  We wait as the other 4 visitors leave then bathe in the pool beneath the fall. Care is needed near the waterfall where the temperature is higher and the sand beneath your feet is also hot. Drive via Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, Rotoehu and Rotoma to Whakatane.  As you may have guessed Roto in Maori means Lake.   Collect our mail and as usual some still hasn’t arrived.  Think snail mail would be an apt name as some has taken nearly 3 months to catch up with us.  Stop at Jim & Mavis’s P.O.P.  Once again we are taken on a Tiki tour and get fantastic views from the lookout.  We can see North and South along the coast and out to sea where White Island volcano is puffing away.  O’Hope Beach is an attractive area and Jim tells us about the town’s history.  He shows us his garden in supplies us with Fejolas (a small green fruit which you cut into and eat the middle) and choko’s (a vegetable which sounds a bit like a marrow).  They are an elderley couple and insist we join them in the house after tea.  It seems the P.O.P. system works well for both parties as we get a safe place to camp and often a Tiki tour and the owners get to meet different people.  
WHAKATANE, POP

 

Tuesday 1 February 2000   On Leith Valley road in Dunedin we spot the "Deerstalkers HQ" and next but one the "Beertalkers HQ"!  Our first camp site (called motor camps here) in New Zealand is Leith Valley Touring Park $19  (£6.30) a small site beside a stream with ducks and tiny ducklings.  It takes me 4 loads $1 (33p) to do the washing and I’m lucky to be able to dry it outside now the rain has stopped. They are still saying summer has yet to start here but that Dunedin has had the wettest January in 82 years.  Have a real good laugh watching "The Royles".  
DUNEDIN, LEITH VALLEY TOURING PARK
 
Tuesday 2 February  Walk up Baldwin Street the steepest street in the world with 1 in 2.66 gradient.  The road is surfaced with slabs of concrete as it is too steep to be tarmaced.  At the Evansdale cheese factory Steve buys a piece of 18 month old blue sheep cheese which stinks.  Continuing North we call at Shag Point for a ….lunch stop.  Moeraki boulders are strange rocks which grew like a pearl around a piece of bone or something.  They have been pushed up onto the beach and some are 4m across.  Looking inside the broken ones is quite interesting.  Arrive too early to see the yellow eyed penguins at Moeraki lighthouse so park for the afternoon.  The rarest penguins in the world have developed a colony here.  Someone saved two sick ones, nursed them to health then released them here to breed.  At 7.30pm we walk down to the hide and wait with 10 other spotters.   Just after 8.00pm one scrambles ashore then eventually waddles up the cliff.  By 9.00pm we have seen 3 more, one on a rock just in front of us.  Spotters Mark & Martin from Holland are looking for a place to free camp. We tell them of the Moeraki boulders car park where they join us for a drink.
MOERAKI BOULDERS CAR PARK

Thursday 3 February   Oamaru is a lovely town.  The local white stone is soft for carving but hardens when exposed to the air, perfect for making the magnificent buildings.  The weather improves dramatically as we turn inland to Mackenzie country.   Dams on Waitaki River have created  many lakes and the bright blue water looks lovely backed by snow capped mountains.  Lake Aviemore makes a good sunbathing stop and we even take a dip.  Near Omarama we detour paying $5 (£1.60) each to visit the Clay Cliffs.  The area is like the Badlands in America and you half expect cowboys or Indians to appear.  We walk into the valley of 2 million year old rocks created when gravel and silt were deposited by glacial rivers.  A most impressive and unexpected small area amidst normal hills.  In Twizel we park by Ohau 1 powerhouse with far reaching views of the valley surrounded by mountains.  The canals here are also bright blue and we can follow them right out to the lakes. 
TWIZEL, BY OHAU 1 POWERHOUSE

Friday 4 February  The road to Mount Cook winds along the edge of Lake Pukaki.  The weather has changed again and the dull cloudy start deteriorates to heavy rain and poor visibility.  The Hermitage is the most famous hotel in New Zealand – principally for its location and the fantastic views out to Mount Cook, but not today.  A warning light has come on in the van and we phone Chris who thinks it is the alternator which charges the leisure battery.  (History repeating itself?).  Ask around but we will have to return to Twizel for a repair.  Sit it out on the car park until the rain stops.  Start the Hooker Valley trail just before 2.00pm. Cross two swing bridges whilst being blasted by a gale then up the valley towards Mount Cook and below Mount Wakefield to emerge at the end of the Hooker Glacier and lake.  The glacier is even dirtier than the others and the lake very muddy.  Walking back we face Mounts Stephen and Annette.  Enjoy the 3 hour walk now that it is warm and sunny.  At the end of the Tasman Valley Road we walk to the blue lakes, now more like green ponds!  Climb higher to view the Tasman Glacier terminal again covered in gravel.  We read that beneath the 1 to 2 metres of gravel are between 200 and 600 metres of ice.  Broken chunks can be seen floating in the lake.  Between the clouds we finally see the top of Mount Cook – the highest in Australasia at 3755m.  Eat in the car park then drive to the Mount Cook lookout at the end of Lake Pukaki where we get a great view as the sun sets.  Park in a nearby rest area for an evening in candle light.
MOUNT COOK LOOKOUT

Saturday 5 February  Back in Twizel we catch the auto electrician opening up.  10 minutes and $10 (£3.30) later he has attached the loose wire with new clips and we are on our way.  Aoraki Naturally is a naturist homestay run by Kay and Brian on the banks of Irishmans Creek just south of Tekapo.  They have a camping area behind the house $18 (£6) and shortly after arriving we are in our "club" uniform enjoying the hot sun under clear blue skies.  The creek has been dammed to create a pool for swimming and it is fun to lie on your back and float downstream.  Steve goes in the canoe but soon falls out and decides to walk back with it.  Fortunately he was still upstream of the main road or he would have look pretty silly walking back crossing the main road stark naked carrying a canoe!  Kay & Brian have a dog called "Nud" and he plays football.  If you kick or throw the ball he chases after it and then dribbles it back.  He’s also pretty good at endlessly retrieving sticks thrown into the creek.  Read in the local paper that Zara Phillips has been seen in the Mackenzie area.  Brian tells us that she is in Tekapo and was in the pub last night. It sounds like she is dating the son of Graham Murray, the owner of the local Mount Cook Scenic flight company.   Brian lights the BBQ and we sit with Jan & Janet and Dutch couple Peter & Ineka.  Last August Peter & Ineka were in France and met Stuart & Sally Holding friends of ours from Queensbury.
AORAKI NATURALLY

Sunday 6 February  Dull, cloudy but warm start to the day.  Spots of rain around mid day then a brighter afternoon when we leap out and sunbathe.
AORAKI NATURALLY 2

Monday 7 February  Join Kay for a trip into Timaru the nearest town 1 1/2 hours drive away!  Complete Kay’s business between a guided sightseeing tour of the nice seaside town.  Back just after 6pm and invite Kay and Brian to join us for a meal.
AORAKI NATURALLY 3

Tuesday 8 February  Bright but breezy morning which becomes a calm hot day perfect for sunbathing.  Late afternoon Brian takes us out to Lake Alexandrina for a spot of swimming sunbathing and trout fishing (to no avail).  Jan joins us for tea – gurnard fish and chips.
AORAKI NATURALLY 4

Wednesday 9 February    A bit of all sorts on the weather front.  We help Kay & Brian plan a trip to Europe which leaves us reminiscing.  Patsy & Tom from Halesowen are staying here on half board and Kay invites us to join them all for the evening meal.  The sunset is fantastic with huge clouds looking like balls of fire.
AORAKI NATURALLY 5

Thursday 10 February  Take a long walk along the creek and almost to the canal road.  It’s great to have the freedom to roam around naked.  In New Zealand there is no law against being naked unless it is offensive or inappropriate!
AORAKI NATURALLY 6

Friday 11 February  A scorcher of a day with the temperature hitting 34C in the afternoon.  Spend lots of time by the creek and find it is still hot when we have our evening BBQ.
AORAKI NATURALLY 7

Saturday 12 February  Time to press on.  Having stayed longer than anticipated we agreed a weekly rate of $85 (£28). In Tekapo we stop to look at the picturesque Church of the Good Shepherd which is used in the foreground of many photos of the deep blue Tekapo Lake.  There is also a nice statue of a sheep dog nearby.  Heading east we pause to study the "Shoe fence".  It started off with someone hanging a pair of shoes over it and has grown to many hundreds of pairs, some inscribed.  Now known as the shoe cemetery Brian says he has seen someone pull up and go along the line to find a pair that fits.  Geraldine is much nicer than expected and we enjoy the Berry Farm which has samples of Barker’s products.  Steve heads for the jams and mustards and I go for the ice-cream syrups.  It’s another very hot day but the clouds prevent us sunbathing.  Rakaia Gorge is spectacular but difficult to get to the water.  Use our first P.O.P.  (park over property).  In New Zealand the Motorhome Club have a list of people willing to let you park on their property overnight free (small charge if they are offering use of showers or power).  On the outskirts of Christchurch (know as ChCh) Wendy & Lesley are listed.  They come in for a drink and tell us their parents are the motorhomers but that they enjoy having visitors. 
CHRISTCHURCH, POP

Sunday 13 February  "Pineglades" is the naturist club near ChCh and they are having an open day today.  As I.N.F. members it only costs us $3 (£1) each and that includes use of the sauna and spa.  The finals of the miniten championship are in progress for which the weather is perfect – cloudy and just about warm.  The people are not over friendly and at one point we stroll over to watch people playing boules.  Someone askes if we know the game and we reply that we do and enjoy playing it.  We are then told that there is another set of boules in the club house and and pointed to a different spot where we can play!  Partake in the sausage sizzle lunch (notice the male chefs are wearing aprons) but leave early afternoon after having a spa, sauna and quick plunge in the outdoor pool.  Ch Ch is the biggest city on the south island and 2nd only to Auckland.  Glad we are here on a Sunday when the traffic is not too bad.  Stroll around the lovely botanical gardens where it is easy to get lost on the many meandering footpaths.  Steve spots a statue that looks like someone’s bare bum stuck up in the air.  Closer inspection reveals what looks like a couple in the 69 position – however the plague reveals it to be wrestlers!  I’ll think twice next time Steve asks me if we want to pull over for a wrest – sorry rest.  Jeanny & Richard whom we met at N.S.C. have asked us to call and in no time we are parked up in the courtyard between their house and Jeanny’s Mum’s. Their twin daughters Stephanie and Rebecca were my ladies in waiting at the Queen’s garden party.  Rebecca is keen to see the video of Steve’s bungy jump. They live near the centre of the city so we are going to stay tomorrow night as well.
CHRISTCHURCH, JEANNY & RICHARDS

Monday 14 February   A cloudy and cool day which is good for tramping round the city.  The River Avon runs through the centre and it is great to stroll along the banks if you can manage to avoid the duck droppings.  Punting on the Avon is a popular pastime here and on a sunny day would have been a very romantic thing to do on Valentines Day.  In Victoria Square we are tempted by the $1 (33p) hot pies so stop for our first rest.  In Cathedral square we climb the 133 steps to get a view from the tower after strolling round the inside.  It’s a flat and very attractive city with many parks and gardens hence the nickname of the Garden City.  Old wooden trams trundle past in a tourist loop but we prefer to walk and get off the beaten track.  Nice statues by the information centre, pretty ironwork bridges over the Avon and an impressive bridge of remembrance lead us to the Arts Centre.  Old university building have now been converted into a big arts and craft area where markets and functions are also held.  Tonight we are coming back for the market square Valentines dance under the stars and the outdoor cinema which are part of the Festival of Romance. Nearby the magnificent city museum building is fronted by the peacock fountain where the jets keep changing places.  The museum is excellent and entry by donation.  In the reconstructed old street Steve tries his hand at riding a Penny Farthing bike.  Another multi museum with sections on transport, the Antarctic, Maori’s, geology, wildlife, paintings of India, Chinese writing implements and many others.  Walking back to Cathedral square we are side tracked at the Chung Wah 2 restaurant sign -smorgasbord $12 (£4).  It’s a nice place and the food includes soup, appetisers, mains, desert and coffee.  Excellent food and most excellent value.  In the square we have just missed the Wizard who arrives at 1pm each day to pontificate.  He’s still there and dressed up in his costume but not performing.  The Shuttle is a free city centre N to S bus and we hop on heading South then get off to walk back up Colombo Street with many shops.  Back on the bus and N to the casino where despite wearing trainers and combat pants we fit their dress code.  Walk back to Jeanny’s arriving at 4.30pm rather footsore but it is bliss to be able to relax and stretch out in a hot bath.  Jeanny drives us back to the Art’s centre for the evening entertainment.  The old tram carriages have been converted to restaurants and one is parked by the market square with couples enjoying a romantic meal.  After a short time it moves off to be replaced by another.  The jazz band are good and some of the younger people must have been to dance classes as they are really putting on a show.  Dress varies from an old lady in a chiffon gown and gold evening shoes to people in scruffy jeans, trainers and coats – no not us!   Unfortunately it is not a warm evening but it hasn’t deterred the crowds.   The film starts at 9.30pm so we pay our $2 (66p) and find a bench behind the lawn.  Most people must have been before as they turn up with food, drinks, picnic chairs, blankets, cushions, and even sleeping bags and pillows.  We half expect some of them to erect tents to set up camp for the night and wouldn’t be surprised if some of them kip here overnight.  Anyway the film is the "Wedding Singer" which we both enjoy huddled under our coats with love and Steve’s bottle of whiskey to keep us warm.  Catch a taxi from Cathedral square $8 (£2.65) arriving back just before midnight after a most enjoyable day.
CHRISTCHURCH, JEANNY & RICHARDS

Tuesday 15 February  Pop in for coffee with Pam whom we are most surprised to learn is 73 as she is vibrant like Mum and looks and acts much younger.  It’s cloudy when we leave so a visit to Palms Shopping centre seems appropriate.  At New Brighton we call in to the QE11 stadium which was used for the commonwealth games.  A swimming gala is in progress and the noise sounds very familiar.  Stop by New Brighton pier for coffee and watch a few surfers braving the weather.  A little further down the coast at Sumner we clamber around cave rock but can’t explore as the tide is coming in.  Over the headland with good views and down to Lyttelton harbour the main port for ChCh.  The "Timeball" here is an old building where at 1pm Greenwich time was signalled by a huge ball dropping down a rod on the tower to allow ships to calculate their longitude.  Here and in Dunedin most old buildings are built from a silvery grey stone with white corner stones which look pretty good.  Head round the Banks Peninsula in a clockwise direction.  You get some excellent views of pretty harbours but the roads are steep and winding.  Climbing out of Port Levy we encounter hundreds of sheep coming down a hill towards us.  Before we get chance to back up the front sheep come to a stand still and the ones behind begin to pile into them which looks quite funny.  Reverse to a junction allowing them to turn in front of us.  Chat to the farmer and he tells us there were around 700.  Although many people assured us this route was OK to do in a camper we come to a sign saying not suitable for trailers or campervans.  Short of going all the way back to Lyttelton there is nothing we can do but proceed slowly.  Don’t know what all the fuss is about, we have at least  6 inches between us and the sheer mountainside and the road isn’t crumbling away too much!  Spot what we think is a kestrel on a fence and wait until if majestically takes off.  Our destination is Akaroa where the French arrived in the 1830’s.  The harbour was created when the volcano erupted and the summit road provides good views when we are below cloud level!  The town is a disappointment to us.  A few French street names and a petrol station with "essence" but really it is just another pretty harbour town and in our opinion not worth the journey. Heading back around the South coast we stop at a P.O.P. in Cooptown.  Notice in the visitors book that our friends Margaret & Les Brook from Saltaire visited here in March 1998. 
COOPTOWN POP

Wednesday 16 February  Rain starts in the early hours which shelves our plan to re visit "Pineglades".  In Little River we detour to "Birdlands" and notice it is $8pp (£2.65) admission or $10.50pp (£3.50) for a powered camping site which includes admission.  Opt to camp which should give us chance to walk around the area if and when the rain eases off.   We are surrounded by ducks, peacocks and other birds as only a few of the birds are in cages.  Duck dropping diversion tactics are deployed again.   It’s late afternoon before the rain eases and we walk up the hill and around the site.  A pleasant place but in need of a lot of maintenance.  A Matai tree has been dedicated as a memorial to Princess Diana and the boardwalks feature names of people who have made donations to the reserve.
LITTLE RIVER, BIRDLANDS

Thursday 17 February  It’s from the ChCh International Antarctic centre that people fly to Antarctica.  The Americans have a large base here and there is also a visitor centre $32 (£10) with a Hagglund Ride.  A quick look around the visitor centre before our 11.30 ride.  The Haaglunds were designed by the Swedes as amphibious all terain vehicles.  We are shown the store room where the Americans are kitted out with special clothing.  There are snot gloves which are huge mitten with fur backs.  You wipe your nose on the fur and then it turns into ice which you flick off.  On expedition people wear the same clothes for 6 weeks but don’t smell (much) as they never sweat.  Stop to take some photos as the tour party leaves and when we reach the door we find we are locked in.  Despite hammering on the door and shouting no one comes.  As people walk by I shout out to them that we are locked in but they either don’t hear me or don’t realise that the door is talking to them.  Steve hears a noise and finds someone working in the warehouse who lets us out.  Our tour party are just coming back from viewing the United States Antarctic Departure Terminal and the guide is mortified when she realises where we have been.  The exciting part of the ride is when we go over an adventure course to show the vehicles capabilities.  We ride up steep banks and ride round the inside of craters and through a 3 metre deep pool.  Return to the main centre where we are offered complimentary audio guides.  I have a great time playing in the snow and sledging in the Snow & Ice experience room.  Enjoy the whole place and leave many hours later to find it is still cold damp and drizzly.   Drive on and park near Hanmer Springs ready for our visit to the Thermal reserve tomorrow.
NR HANMER SPRINGS

Friday 18 February  More rain but we brave the thermal pools and are surprisingly not alone.  As we are going to get wet anyway what could be better on a rainy day.  7 open air thermal pools, 3 sulphur pools, 25m freshwater pool and an activity pool for which you pay $8  (£2.50).  You can then pay extra for private pools, saunas, slides and beauty treatments.  The hottest sulphur pool is 42C but I spend most of the time in a 35C pool chatting to long term travellers Richard and Lyn an English couple our age.  I get so engrossed that I don’t even notice that Steve has got out, dressed, gone back to the van for the camera and that over 1 hour has passed!  Carry on up the coast to Kaikoura to visit Lloyd whom we met last year on the Oceanic Odyssey cruise with his wife Val.  Sadly Val has since died.  His sister in law Phyl is staying and in no time we are parked up on the drive and enjoying a meal of crayfish (lobster) which Lloyd himself caught.  He tells us that "our" ship is now called Clipper Odyssey and will be here in Kaikoura on Sunday – what a coincidence.

Saturday 19 February  Lloyd takes us for a "Tiki" (orientation) tour around Kaikoura and shows us many points of interest.  In the afternoon we walk to the "Whale way" station for our whale watching cruise $95 (£30).  After watching a video we are taken to South Bay to board "Makawhiu" which is on a trailer behind a tractor.  We reverse into the water and are soon underway.  We’re looking for the giant sperm whales and pull up so Jason can listen for them using sonar.  He locates one and we speed off in the general direction but arrive just as it dives.  Enroute to the next one we spot some unusual birds and also an albatross.  We are all asked to keep a look out but there are dolphins and seals around which makes it difficult to pick out the whales.  The ruling is that is it doesn’t blow we don’t go.  Eventually a spout is spotted and we find a whale on the surface.  It’s difficult to appreciate the size as you can only ever see part of it.   Sperm whales live here as there is a deep shelf in the ocean where giant squid up to 50m long are found.  The whale prepares to dive and we pose cameras at the ready to get a shot of the tail as it flukes.  See 2 more whales before returning to shore.  Lloyd & Phil are out for the evening but have given us a key and told us to make ourselves at home and make full use of the facilities.  For the second time in a week I wallow in the bath whilst Steve takes command of the remote control to watch Sky.
KAIKOURA

Sunday 20 February  A beautiful hot day and by 8.00 we are at South Bay to watch the zodiacs come ashore from the Odyssey.  The Mayor has come out to greet the passengers and Lloyd also introduces us to him.  Chat to some crew and Mike Taylor who was Staff Captain for us is now the Master.  He is sleeping at the moment but they suggest we pop back at 11.30 to chat to him.  Lloyd drives back whilst we walk over the peninsula cliff top which gives us great views of the bays.  Pick up the van to drive back to South Bay.  Speak to Mike on the radio and he invites us over for lunch.  There have been quite a few changes and the crew are no longer Indonesian but now Philippino.  The buffet area is smaller and the buffet itself has a lot less choices.  The lounge dance floor has been replaced with a video screen and they now show nature movies in the evenings.  At the moment Noble Caledonian are chartering it for 3 weeks to tour around New Zealand.  Frank who was our Captain now does a 12 week share with Mike and the ship is going to be in Sydney for 3 weeks for the Olympics and Frank will be Captain.  Mike suggest we catch up with him then which would be great.  Return to Lloyds and get loads of washing done and dried between mowing the lawn and sunbathing.  Lloyd & Phyl are out again so we have the place to ourselves.  It’s amazing how friendly people are.  Try to book our ferry crossing to the North Island but the Edinburgh Tattoo is on and they are booked out until at least mid March.  Finally get on earlier than we had hoped for with a 5.30am sailing Tuesday 29th.  $308 (£100) return for us and the motorhome which is about what we paid for our channel crossings.   Watch movies until midnight.
KAIKOURA 2

Monday 21 February  Cloudy warm day.  Walk through town to drop Steve off for his Shark diving trip $110 (£35).  We phoned to book it yesterday ( Telephone number 0800 2 C JAWS) and he leaves at 11.30am.  You are kitted out in a wet suit and given an air line before being locked in a cage and lowered into the ocean.  They then feed the sharks which swim right by the cage!  Can’t understand why I don’t want to do it.  It’s even free if you swim outside the cage.  Steve returns at 4.30 pm having had a great time.  He saw 4 blue sharks varying in length from  1 1/2 – 2 1/2 metres.  They poked their noses through the cage and Steve once made the mistake when he lost his balance of grabbing hold of the outside cage bars instead of the rail inside.  Lunch was crayfish and other fish which were caught and immediately cooked.  They even caught one of the sharks by mistake but it broke free.  A trip he would certainly recommend.  We take Lloyd out in the evening to Donegal House an Irish pub just outside the town.  A beautiful setting with a lake in the garden and big white statues.  Steve & I share a seafood platter at $15 (£5) and it is so big we end up leaving loads of the chips but manage to eat all the shell mussels, battered mussels, squid and groper. 
KAIKOURA 3

Tuesday 22 February  Steve helps Lloyd retrieve the empty cray pots before we leave.  Coffee stop by a seal colony but Steve comes back feeling sick as he has seen a dead one with it’s head chopped off and smelling awful.  Blenheim is a nice town even in the drizzle.  Pizza Hut are doing an all you can eat Pizza, Pasta, Salad and Desert lunch for $8.95 (£3) so we while away an hour or so there.  In Picton we collect the ferry tickets before heading to Havelock on the Queen Charlotte scenic drive.  We are now in Marlborough Sounds region and our journey along the coast is spectacular with Sounds and Bays around every one of over a hundred bends which we navigate.  Ed & Druscilla run the Havelock Outdoor Centre which operates naturist cruises and they also run a naturist homestay with space for motorhomes.  Call at the office to provisionally arrrange a trip for Thursday and then follow Ed home. Join them for a few drinks (or in Steve’s case many drinks).  They are the same age as us with children also the same age.  English Druscilla came to New Zealand with her parents but they didn’t settle.  By that time she had met Ed but because she was only 16 she had to fight to stay here.  She had to go to court to prove she was capable of staying here along with her twin sisiter.  She married Ed and both she and her sister are still here but don’t communicate with their parents which is sad.
HAVELOCK

Wednesday 23 February  Do a double take as we wake up to a clear blue sky with a big round yellow thing sending heat down.  Spend a relaxing day sunbathing and take a walk down through the woods to the river.  It’s a great spot which we explore downstream to the gorge and then upstream to the bridge.  The area is famous for gold mining and many swimming holes have been created in the river where miners blasted rocks away.  A nice BBQ cooked on their terrace overlooking the river is followed by Scrabble.  The trip is provisionally on for tomorrow and Walter and Nissa from N.S.C. are joining us.
HAVELOCK 2

Thursday 24 February  Typical – a cloudy start to the day but it soon brightens up and it’s all aboard M.V. MAVIS for our naturist day trip cruise on the Marlborough Sounds $45 (£15).  Coffee and a slice are served then the first stop is the mussel farm where Ed pulls up enough green mussels for lunch.  We later pull into a sheltered bay and whilst he cooks the mussels Steve & I go in for a very quick swim as the water is pretty cool.  The men scoff the mussels whilst Nissa & I eat our packed lunch  A hike at Nydia Bay and then time for the return trip.  Shortly after we go ashore I am violently sick (how can you be out on a boat all day and not sea sick but throw up the minute you hit land?).  The new local pub serves Guinness so Walter & Steve make a bee line for it whilst Nissa & I tag along.  I feel fine and have a coke and then coffee.  Ed picks us up in the mini bus for the short drive to their office where I do a Linford Christie to the loo to honk up again – cappucino style.  We all return to Ed & Druscilla’s house where unfortunately I miss out on some good conversation and a nice meal of Tacos as everytime I try to get out of bed I feel sick, have a bad head and keep going hot and cold.  It’s Paul Evans’s 50th Birthday today and Steve phones him up just to make sure there is life after 50! 
HAVELOCK 3

Friday 25 February  I’m still feel a bit odd (yes I know I always have been) when I get up.  Set off towards the sun club calling in at Richmond to shop.  Claire’s packet has arrived at the club and it’s great to delve into the contents and especially to watch the video.  It perks me up no end.  It’s a hot day and we make the most of it and enjoy hopping in and out of the swimming pool.  Peter & Marcia join us for a drink in the evening.  Sadly there have been problems at the club and Peter & Marcia have feel compelled to leave and move on Tuesday.
NELSON SUN CLUB

Saturday 26 February     Another nice day so for once we are in the right place at the right time.  It’s Walter’s 51st Birthday on Monday and Nissa is having a dinner party for him tonight.  We are invited along with Kay & John and June & Wilf.  Nissa is Indian and she greets us in her sari.  The meal is all traditional Indian food and excellent.  The only blip on the evening is that this group of 6 are the main ones responsible for Peter & Marcia leaving.  The conversation becomes quite bitchy from time to time but we have made it clear that we don’t wish to be involved.  We leave early to give them chance to talk amongst themselves.  It’s made us realise a few things – one is that it would not be a good idea for us ever to live permanently in a naturist club and secondly how lucky we are when travelling to only meet people briefly and to enjoy the nice side of them.
NELSON SUN CLUB 2

Sunday 27 February  Mixed weather so I cook a roast dinner and as Peter & Marcia are in the midst of packing we invite them to join us for lunch.  Steve does rather well and comes second in the handicap golf tournament and wins a ball which he promptly loses on the 2nd hole next time round!  Leave late afternoon to drive back to Nelson to park at Chris & Marion’s.  The van is booked in for a certificate of fitness tomorrow (like our M.O.T.) which has to be done every 6 months.  We also need to buy a kilometre pass.  In New Zealand diesel is much cheaper than petrol but you then have to buy a km pass which is related to the size and weight of the vehicle.  For a 4 ton motorhome it costs $130 (£43).  This means that our 5,000km tour of the South Island has cost us about $500 (£165) – or 10c (3p) per km. 
NELSON

Monday 28 February  By 10.00 the van is certified and we have said our final farewells to Chris & Marion as they leave for England in May and we won’t see them again.  Detour on the scenic wine route from Havelock to Picton.  There are many wineries here with huge mansion type houses for meals as well as tastings.  From Picton we drive over the headland to Waikowa and park up by the harbour for a rest (sorry a snooze) as we have been up since just after 7.00am.  It’s a hot sunny day and we soon return to Picton to park by the seafront.  It’s a lovely little town with a nice main street running down to the memorial arch leading into gardens and down to the beach.  There are two paddling pools, children’s play area, track for a minature railway and lots of seats and lawns for lazing around.  The remains of the Edwin Fox boat from the 1850’s are quite impressive as you can see inside through the broken timbers. Glad we are going on a modern ship though.  The last ferry leaves at 9.30pm when we drive to the port and park up in line.  Leave our ticket for the 5.30am ferry on the windscreen incase the alarm doesn’t wake us.
PICTON DOCKS

Tuesday 29 February  Sleep intermitently between the trains shunting nearby.  4.00am a knock on the door wakes us before the alarm and we are processed and eventually find our way onto the ferry.  Nowhere near as slick an operation as Dover and very badly signposted.  The Arahura is an old Danish ferry and it will take us 3 hours to get to Wellington.  Arrive on the NORTH ISLAND at 8.30am and easily negotiate the rush hour traffic to travel along the quay to park near the Te Papa museum.  $6 (£2) seems very reasonable for all day parking in a capital city.   Catch up on some sleep as the museum doesn’t open until 10.00am.  Te Papa is brilliant and amazingly free for most of the exhibits.  Spread over 5 levels we start on 2 in the Time Warp where we pay $15 (£5) each for a combination ticket to ride on Blast Back and Future Rush which turn out to be very tame. The earthquake exhibition is thought provoking as Wellington is built on a fault line and has an earthquake at least once a week (almost all very small).  On level 4 Golden Days is an animated show in an old junk shop.  In the Maori section the Mana Whenua (house) and Te Marae (meeting place) are most impressive.  Enjoy the rest of this level and nip up to level 5 to view the Tiger Moth plane before leaving for lunch.  Back to visit Bush City a reconsturcted outdoor area with caves, fossils etc then inside to gawp at the skeleton of a huge pygmy blue whale. Escape late afternoon and spot a cinema just down the street.  Tonight they are showing Two Hands followed by Tea with Mussolini.  There is also a film and T.V. exhibition with the main highlight being New Zealand’s famous soap Shortland Street.  Back to the van for a bite to eat before returning to the cinema at 5.15pm.  Reduced price of $7 (££2.30) on Tuesday’s which is a bonus.  Two Hands is an Australian film and quite good with one hillarious moment when a bank robber trips over the bank counter and knocks himself out.  Sneak straight into Tea with Mussolini which reminds us of our trip in Italy as we recognise Florence and San Gimignano.  Strange that in San Gimignano we didn’t read about the old ladies who saved the towers from being bombed as it is based on a true story.  Move the van to a better spot on the Wilson car park immediately behind the Te Papa museum where we have a great view of Wellington harbour and city by night.
WELLINGTON, WILSON CAR PARK BEHIND TE PAPA MUSEUM
  
 

Summary for 1999
4 countries visited – England, Australia, Indonesia and New Zealand
Distance travelled in a motorhome 27484 km – 17079 miles
Saturday 1st January 2000  Welcome to the new Millennium which has started here 13 hours ahead of GMT  Back at the club house hot sausage rolls are waiting.  The numbers start to dwindle and we end up playing Canasta with Jeanny and John until 3.00am.  Watch some of the world celebrations on TV then drift off to sleep.  The planned early morning hill climb to watch the sunrise is definitely cancelled as rain starts.  Re group at the club house at 9.00am for breakfast.  The charge for last night also includes the strawberries and croissants for breakfast and we take along our own bubbly.  On T.V. it’s strange watching the rest of the world move into the Millennium. We are particularly impressed with Paris and London at which point I become tearful thinking about everyone.  Manage to get through to England to speak to a few people but lines are busy and connection poor.  Golf is rained off and the afternoon Queen’s garden party at 3.00pm is moved inside.  I have been asked to play the Queen and the ladies are expected to wear hat and gloves and the men black tie which Steve has almost forgotten how to do.  The Royal car collects me along with my two ladies in waiting, twins Jenny and Rebecca.  Afternoon tea with cucumber sandwiches is served on the best china.  I have to hand out the awards on the New Years honours list.  Roger had an accident the other day on the golf course and tripped over a club then landed on the flag which cut his stomach and down his willy.  For this he is awarded the R.D.T. – Roger’s Dodgy Todger.  They laugh when I return from the toilet with my skirt tucked up in my knickers.  I leave the party but return appropriately undressed to become the Queen of Nude Zealand.  Catch up on some sleep late afternoon then join others at Peter & Marcia’s to watch the video of the afternoon party.
NELSON SUN CLUB 8

Sunday 2 January  Heavy rain all day.  If this is a New Zealand summer thank goodness we didn’t come in the winter!  Spend a lazy day intermittently sleeping, reading, watching T.V. and doing a few jobs. 
NELSON SUN CLUB 9

Monday 3 January  A brighter start to the day with Steve getting a 35 on the golf course followed by 39 against my 45.   Back into Nelson for the fridge repair tomorrow.  Another Canasta evening with Marion & Chris.
NELSON

Tuesday 4 January  The repair cannot be done until tomorrow so we stroll into town and up South Street which has all the lovely old original houses.  After lunch we visit Founders Historic Park $5 (£1.70) where many old buildings have been re-sited.  I have great fun in the children’s 3D maze which ends on a flying fox.  Visit Ruth whom we met at N.S.C.  They live on the hillside and have a fantastic view over the boulder bank a natural formation which protects the harbour.  Stop on the way back at the Miyazu Japanese gardens created on the site of the old refuse tip.  A 19 year old ex convict was given the project as part of his parole and he did such a good job that the scheme was expanded and the Japanese have now copied the plan and created a mirror image in Japan.  Test out the local deep fried scallops for tea.  The film festival is on in town and tonight they are showing "Eyes wide shut" $9.50 (£3.20) at the local Suter theatre. We enjoy it and find it more straightforward than expected.
NELSON 2

Wednesday 5 January  More rain.  Call at the "fridge" place at 8.00am but he wants the fridge taking out of the van and leaving with him.  At the tip recycling shop we pick up a sun lounger for $5 (£1.70).  It’s unbelievable the stuff they have here and we know many people who would have a field day amongst the computers, gadgets and general bric a brac.  Collect the fridge and finally leave Nelson at mid day.  Spot a sign "at the roundabout indicate or crash" which is pretty hard hitting like their Christmas drink drive advert "Drive bloody carefully this Christmas".  Yes the Kiwi’s don’t mince words although they do pronounce some rather differently with "e’" being said like "i" so Ben becomes Bin and "a" often as an "o" or "er" so Wanaka is Wonoker and even worse "Wh" if "fu" so Whakatane sound like fuckertarnee!  Anyway first stop for lunch in Wakefield where I just had to buy some postcards having come from there myself.  Next we pass a sign to "Spooners Top Road" and begin to feel quite at home.  St Arnaud on Lake Rotoiti is similar to a swiss alpine village with the chalets.  There are ski fields nearby for the winter and in summer the lake is great for water sports.  The rains has stopped so we tramp around the peninsula which is pretty boring as we are in forest and can’t see much.  Park at Kawatiri old railway station for tea then press on to Lake Rotoroa also in the Nelson Lakes National Park for overnight.  One advantage of it being light until after 9.00pm.
KAWATIRI

Thursday 6 January  Spot a leaflet in the hut advertising white water rafting here.  Phone and arrange to be picked up at Gowan Bridge for the full day trip $100 (£33).  At the Lake we are kitted out in wetsuits, kagouls and helmets looking rather like the Telly Tubbies.  Start with a briefing and practice.  Commands such as duck, all fall left, everybody down are soon learnt but many people have problems with left and right.  Into the Gowan River with 9 in our raft and 8 in another.   A grade 2 River with Grade 5 parts it involves lots of hard work rowing through the faoming white water.  11km long it is the fastest white water river in Australasia and we reach Gowan Bridge in time for a BBQ lunch.  The Gowan joins the Buller River here which we continue into for the next 14km.  More white water and opportunities for me and another girl to be pushed in before everyone leaps overboard to enjoy floating through the rapids.  "Boxy" our guide takes great delight in deliberatly beaching us and wrapping the boat around rocks.  At one point we are wedged against a rock with the raft completely flooded, one guy fallen out and Boxy nearly getting left behind when he pushes us in.  Paddle upstream into a waterfall to surf in the raft with the water flooding through like a jacuzzi.   Water fights and races with the other raft complete the fun.  Arrive exhilarated on the banks of the river by the Owen River Tavern.  Time for a beer before returning to Gowan Bridge. What great fun on a nice sunny day.  Driving towards Westport we pull of the road just south of Murchison (the centre of the 1927 earthquake) to a lovely spot in the forest on the side of the Buller River.  Walk down to the river and find a nice sandy beach where we can bathe just upstream from waterfalls which lead into the gorge. 
BULLER RIVER

Friday 7 January  A dry warm but cloudy day as we set off towards Westport on the West coast.  On the minor roads bridge crossings are all single track.  Pass the longest foot suspension bridge in New Zealand which Steve is non too keen to cross.  At Inangahua Junction we visit the information centre to learn about their 1968 earthquake.  Enjoy lunch by Westport’s North Beach watching some locals in the water.  Park at Pete & Jennie Crawley’s whom we met at N.S.C.  The local show is on tomorrow and we help them selecting produce from the garden to enter the competitions.  5 month Emily seems quite happy to have me looking after her and I get to keep my hand in as a Grandma.  Eat a meal with them and visitor Leah.  They are a religious family so we all join hands and pray before eating.
WESTPORT

Saturday 8 January  A lovely sunny day and we stroll into town.  One shop has reduced clothing from up to $35 (£9) to $5 (£1.70) and I leave with a bag full.  The A&P (agricultural and pastoral) show $2 (70p) at the race course consists of a fun fair, produce, flower, craft and pet competitions, vintage car and motorbike displays, a house truck arena and woodcutting competitions.  Pete & Jennie are delighted to win  first prize for their pom-pom Dahlia, plums, lemons and a photographic entry.  They are not keen gardeners but bought the house from a lady who was.  All their prize winning goods just happened but everyone else is keen to ask them what compost they use etc!  The housetrucks are quite amazing being more like gypsy style wooden caravans attached to lorries and very ornate inside.  You can pay and have a look around so I take the video into one.  They have a bedroom upstairs which leads out onto a sun balcony complete with BBQ.  The wood chopping competition is fun and they are setting up a challenge for entry in to the Guiness Book of Records.  Manage to get back just before a heavy downpour.  Chill Pasta makes another appearance when I cook for us all. 
WESTPORT

Sunday 9 January  Happy 40th Birthday Netty Spooner and welcome to the middle ages!  Clear blue skies and lots of sun.  Up the coast to Denniston incline where the old mining trucks followed a steep slope up from the coast to the coal face on the hill.  Nearby are Ironbridge and Coalbrookdale which remind us of Telford.  Walk around the historical area then return to the coast for some time on Waimangaroa Beach.  Back through Westport, showering at Pete’s then on to Cape Foulwind and a walk to the seal colony at Tauranga Bay.  Last stop for the day is Constant Bay, the port for Charleston ex gold mining town.  A great free camping spot with a dark sand beach mingled with alluvial gold sparkling in the sun.  One of the many walks highlights the views and numerous craggy inlets.  House trucks from the show are also here.
CONSTANT BAY

Monday 10 January   A beautiful day and too nice to leave this lovely spot where we can stroll to the sea for a dip or take in more rock hopping walks.  At night we are serenaded by one of the campers playing tom tom drums.
CONSTANT BAY 2

Tuesday 11 January   Down the coast to Punakaiki famous for the unusual shape "Pancake Rocks".  In the same area we explore inside the dark Punakaiki Cavern and then follow the Truman track to a beach with a waterfall and cave.  Lunch by the Punakaiki River before pressing on and finding a lovely beach down a track.  The back of the beach is pebbly but in the sea there is sand.  We are visited by a Weka which is a bush duck and we read that they are prone to steal your food or anything that sparkles.  A couple of vehicles roll up at dusk with shark fishermen laying their nets for the night in hope of catching some of the 1 1/2 metres ones.  Watch our first sunset over the Tasman Sea.
BEACH SOUTH OF PUNAKAIKI

Wednesday 12 January  Another good day so we spend the morning on the beach and in the sea in the knowledge that the fishermen didn’t catch any shark last night (maybe the sharks are waiting for us).   Leave at 2.00pm continuing down the coast with nice scenery and the blue sky in competition with the sea set off by numerous rocky outcrops.  Greymouth is a nice little town with a recent increase in the population following the building of a flood barrier to protect it.  Just out of town we reach the Taramakau bridge which is single lane traffic combined with the rail track.  We succesfully negotiate it and then come upon a roundabout with the railroad going through the centre.  Kumara Junction is another good beach spot but this time the sandy beach is  backed by lots of driftwood. 
KUMARA JUNCTION BEACH

Thursday 13 January   A warm but cloudy day so we press on into Hokitika.  Complete the town historical walk which takes us past numerous jade factories where they process the stone found in this area.  Nearby Hokitika Gorge has the most amazing blue water and would be a wonderful spot to stop if only the sandflies didn’t think so also.  Anywhere there is running water the sandflies hover and seem more profuse and bite more viciously than mosquitoes.  The bites takes a long time to heal up and stop itching but at least there is no danger from them.  Ross goldmining town is where the 99oz nugget "Honourable Roddy" was found in 1907.  The beach has another good parking spot between a field of cows with a mountain view beyond and the beach on the other side.
ROSS BEACJ

Friday 14 January  A lie in until 10.00 results in us finally hitting the road at 11.00am.  The road is now edged with dense tropical rainforest.  Return to the coast at Hari Hari to do the coastal pack track 3 hour walk.  Walking through the forest we stumble upon a stoat preening itself and are also stunned by the noise the cicadas make.  Emerge on to the beach with many baches (holiday homes).  The beach here is heaving with driftwood which comes from the forests and is transported in the wildly flowing rivers after the heavy rains which they get in this region.  Climb the "Doughboy" for a tremendous 360 degree view and a rest on the seats after the 240 steps up.  Back over the mud flats and past the whitebaiters huts to the car park.  Lake Wahapo makes a scenic overnight stop but we are plagued by sandflies and mosquitoes to the extent that we hardly sleep.  We don’t know where they are getting in but we keep hearing one buzz and having sprayed or flattened it we get about half an hours sleep before the next one. 
LAKE WAHAPO

Saturday 15 January  Inland to the Southern Alps region and Franz Joseph alpine village by the glacier.  Steve has a bad headache and isn’t too keen to do the helicopter flight so I go it alone.  $150 (£50) gets you a 30 minute flight over both the Franz and the Fox glaciers with a snow landing on one.  Waiting for departure I chat to the couple next to me and it turns out they are from Wakefield but the lady was born in Keighley.  Reel off lots of familiar names but nothing clicks.  The flight is excellent and we set off over the forest to the Fox Valley before flying up the glacier.  Although dirty looking from all the grey shingle spilling onto it I still find it impressive.  We were spoilt by the pristine Svartisen Glacier in Norway and when we land in the snow I realise it is the first snow I have seen since then which was June 1998.  Take off and fly over the mountain then down the Franz Joseph Glacier.  Although it receeded for many years it has been moving forward again since the 60’s.  Walk to St James Anglican church as the alter is backed by a big clear window which frames a great view of the glacial valley.  Steve’s a little better so we drive up the glacier road then walk first to Sentinel Rock for a view and then get closer on the Glacier View walk.  Down the valley Lake Matheson is famous as a mirror lake. Steve gives up shortly into the walk but I complete the 1 1/2 hour circuit which is nice but the reflections are spoilt somewhat by the low clouds.  On to the Fox Glacier for the Glacier Valley Walk which is great.  We walk below rock landslides and over a glacial river to get right up to the ice face.  The ice is blue (between the grey rocky bits) and the river flows from a cave opening.  Excellent and well worth the hike.  Back in the car park we spot a Kea bird which is a native parrot with an orange underside to it’s wings.  Find a nice overnight spot in the valley with a grandstand view of the Fox River.
FOX VALLEY

Sunday 16 January  Quick drive up the other side of the glacial valley for a photo.  Lake Paringa makes a nice coffee stop before we reach Haast where the road heads inland.  At the visitor centre we pick up Tim & Jules who are hitchiking to Wanaka.  Explain we do a lot of stopping and may not go that far today but they are happy to join us for part of the trip.  Landscape gardeners from Auckland they ask us to visit when we go there.  Lunch stop by the river then over the Haast pass where we feel very sorry for the red faced cyclists which we just about have enough speed to pass.  Thunder Creek Falls at 99′ are lovely with a pool at the bottom which would be inviting on a warmer day.  Fantail falls also warrent a stop before we reach Makarora.  There is a Wilkin jet boat trip leaving at 3.30pm so we book it.  Tim & Jules find out there is a bus to Wanaka in about 10 minutes time so everything works out well.  The 1 hour jet boat $49 (£16) takes you up the Makarora and Wilkin Rivers at great speed.  The jet boats have a draft of 8cm and can turn in their own length having no propellers on the outside but a V8 engine which sucks water.  Two boats go out and we head towards river banks then swerve at the last minute giving us a good soaking.  Bump up some rapids and do lots of Hamiltons (360 degree turns).  Brilliant fun and quite exhillarating with scenic views to add to the pleasure.  Our drive takes us to beautiful Lake Wanaka with the sun making the water a fabulous blue topped off with scenic mountains surrounding it.  Free camp right on the edge.
LAKE WANAKA

Monday 17 January  A windy night with the van rocking about a bit.  Mainly sunny day and we scramble down the side of a waterfall to a sheltered gravel beach on the lakeside.  Leave after dinner and head into Wanaka.  First stop the famous "Puzzling World" which I have really been looking forward to.  Outside is the "Leaning Tower of Wanaka" which balances at 45 degrees. It  has a clock which goes backwards and was started at midnight this year so is taking time back into the 20th century! $7 (£2.30) gets you into the giant 3D maze, crooked house, hall of following  faces and puzzle room.  Posters on the walls show seemingly impossible things such as never ending staircases and rooms which appear inside and outside at the same time.  The hologram hall is excellent.  Enter the cooked house and Steve has to back out as he feels quite ill.  It’s fascinating to see a stair chair going upstairs on it’s own, snooker balls rolling up the table and to stand on a ladder and lean forwards without falling off.  The hall of following faces is spooky with 4 layers of faces which follow you as you walk around the room.  The maze is incredible with four different coloured corners to be reached over 1.5km of paths on 2 levels.  Steve gives up after the first corner and leaves me for another hour or so to complete the course.  Return to the van where Steve is happily dozing and gives me free rein in the puzzle room.  I’m like a kid with a new toy hopping from table to table to try out the different challenges.  Can’t believe it’s 6 o’clock when Steve comes to drag me out.  Wanaka is a lovely lakeside town which reminds us of Austria.  Tragically last November the lake flooded and the main street was under 1 metre of water.  The only legacy is that the water is still undrinkable but everything else has been quickly restored.  Enjoy fish and chips on the lakeside before heading back 4km out of town to Albert Town DOC (Department of Conservation) camp site $4 (£1.30) p.p.p.n.  Settle  into a nice spot beside the Clutha River.
CLUTHA RIVER

Tuesday 18 January  A hot day with clear blue skies and perfect for lazing besides the stream.  I build myself a pool using the rocks and then find a natural deep sandy one downstream which is perfect for a swim.  Into town late afternoon and tonight we splash out on a Chinese take away $8 each (£2.70) eaten by the Lake once again.  Paradiso cinema $9 (£3) is showing "The Haunting" but we have come to see the cinema itself as much as the film.  You enter through a cafe where the tables and toilets are decorated with old cinema posters.  The cinema seats are old armchairs and sofas and also an old car which you can sit inside to view the movie.  The owner comes in to tells us a bit about the film and forthcoming films, he points out a box full of cushions to use and says we may have to wait a moment for the start as a lad is still waiting outside for his girlfriend to turn up!  The film is good even though you can tell when the old projectors are changed over.  At the intermission the owner says the movie will start again when everyone is ready and no rush with the drinks etc!  What a brilliant place where we enjoy stretching out on a sofa and feel even more at home than in the motorhome.  Drive out to Wanaka airport for the night as we want to enquire about tandem Skydiving.
WANAKA AIRPORT

Wednesday 19 January  Steve goes to the Skydiving offices and returns to tell me we are booked to jump at 9.45 and the price is down from $225 (£75) to $195 (£65) by booking here.  I now start to read up and find out that what we are going to be doing is jumping in tandem with an instructor out of a plane 9000 feet above the ground.  You free fall at 200 kph for 30 seconds before opening the parachute at 6000 feet.  In other words a parachute jump.  We are shown an instruction video and introduced to Grant who will be my personal instructor and Phil who is Steve’s.  Kitted out in jumpsuits and harness we are led out to the small aircraft along with another girl.  The views are spectacular as we fly over Lakes Wanaka and Howea and spot the top of Mount Aspiring and Mount Cook covered in snow.  9000 feet approaches and with our hats and goggles in place the door is opened.  I’m going first and Grant nudges me forwards so I am actually hanging out of the plane.  He tells me to take up the "Big Banana" position which involves me tucking my feet back under the plane, gripping my straps and pressing my elbows and body backwards leaning my head back against his shoulder.  Next instruction is "Let’s fly" at which point a big rush of cold wind hits me as we tumble forwards.  We roll around for a few seconds and then level out stomachs towards the ground.  The wind rushes past and it seems to be ages before the parachute jerks us upright.  At this point I am told to relax and enjoy the ride.  I get my camera out in time to catch Steve’s parachute opening as he approaches us.  It is now a very slow and quiet descent until Grant starts to do some stunts.  Spiralling and Sasheying follow until he tells me to prepare for landing as we near the airport.  Feet held forward and upwards we gently land on our bottoms and slide for a couple of feet.  Absolutely unbelievable, amazing, exhilarating, adrenalin pumping, can’t believe we did it stuff.   Back to town and I feel extremely light headed as I am still so hyped up.  Head out towards Queenstown stopping for lunch by Lake Dunstan.  Call at one of the many fruit factories in the area where we buy our produce and watch the production line at the same time.  Cromwell is a nice town dominated by a fruit statue like Carman Miranda’s hat and a pretty shopping mall which has a stream with small waterefalls running through it.  In the 80’s a dam was built to create Lake Duncan and much of the old town was lost under water.  Cromwell Old Town has some of the original old buildings and others than were taken down before the flooding and reconstructed. In Kawerau Gorge we walk over a narrow bridge to the area of an old Gold mining town.  At the Gibston rest area sign we are amazed when we go down a track into what looks like someone’s garden.  A man is watering the lawns and says that although it is the council rest area his neighbour takes care of the area but is on holiday so he is just helping out.  By the side of a stream there are flower beds, picnic tables, BBQ, toilets and a proper lawn.  A small sign asks you to keep it tidy and donations are welcome – no problem.
GIBSTON REST AREA

Thursday 20 January  Wake at 10.00 to clouds followed by a few spots of rain.  Enjoy a cooked brunch then laze around reading and doing the diary etc.  Some brights spells in the afternoon.
GIBSTON REST AREA 2

Friday 21 January  Happy Birthday Mum.  Set off towards Queenstown and notice many places where the road was washed away during the November rains and is still being put right.  Kawarau Bridge is where A.J. Hackett did the first bungy jump and we stop to watch the crazy people throwing themselves 142 feet off the bridge.  Steve pays his $110 (£37) for the priviledge.  I stand poised with the video camera and feel quite nervous watching as he has his ancles bound.  He hops to the edge of the platform before the countdown begins.  He’s away with more of a fall than a dive but the elastic soons tips him up and his fingers just touch the water.  He begins to spin and that is when he starts yelling!  Eventually the dingy reaches him and he grabs the pole to be pulled on board.  He claims his certificate and free T-shirt then watches it replayed on the showroom video.  Back on the road we detour to Arrowtown an old gold mining town where the main street is still as it used to be.  There is an area which used to be the Chinese settlement and remains of the humble dwellings are still in evidence.  Queenstown is the adventure sport capital with great appeal to the young back-packers.  We preffered the more sedate Wanaka.  Call at the doctors for some Polio drops as it is 10 years since our last ones.  Find out that New Zealand has full reciprocal medical agreement with U.K. citizens which means we won’t need to re new our travel insurance at the end of the month.  The Sky Line Gondola $13 (£4.30) takes us up to Bob’s peak for some splendid views over Lake Wakatipu, the town and surrounding mountains.  Just make it back into the van before the heavens open up. Copthorne Hotel do an early bird buffet $15 (£5) and Steve manages to get through about as many main courses as I do deserts.  By the time we leave the rain has stopped and we drive along the lake shore to free camp at Wilson Bay near Closeburn.  Heavy rain starts in the night.
WILSON BAY NR CLOSEBURN

Saturday 22 January  Heading towards Te Anau we pull over at Fairlight rest area for coffee.  Our timing is good as the old steam train the Kingston Flyer is just pulling in to the station.  Continue into an area called the Tussocks after the grassy clumps surrounding us.  The Scots originaly settled in this area and the Scottish accent is evident.  Te Anau on Lake Te Anau is a very pleasant place especially as it is 25C.  Gather lots of information before driving towards Milford Sound.  See many good parking places but we always have a vehicle close behind us.  Manage to turn around but get caught up in the procession of coaches in the opposite direction.  When you slow down and indicate to let them pass they ignore you, if you indicate to go right they are so close that you daredn’t make the turn and when you finally pull over they give you the "V"’s.  This seems to be typical of the intolerence in New Zealand of motorhomes and slower drivers.  About turn and stop by the lakeside.  More heavy rain through the night.
ROAD TO MILFORD SOUND

Sunday 23 January  The torrential rain shows no sign of letting up.  Fortunately the guided walk we had booked along part of the Milford Tack is cancelled.  As we cross the great Divide en route to Milford Sound the scenery changes dramatically.  Because of the heavy rain the sheer rocky mountains are teeming with water creating hundreds of waterfalls.  It’s absolutely breath taking.  The Homer Tunnel took 17 years to build and allows the road to pass through the mountains to reach the sound.  The tunnel falls steeply downwards and we are fortunate not to meet anything coming towards us as it is quite narrow.  The rain is so bad that we drive under a waterfall whilst in the tunnel.  Emerge to even more dramatic scenery and what must be thousands of waterfalls standing out as white lines agains the polished grey stone mountains.  Walk to "The Chasm" where the raging white water has worked holes through the rocks.  Return 10 minutes later soaked through.  Milford Sound consists of a backpackers lodge, hotel, cafe and visitor centre combined with tour operators desks.  Check out the boat times but we will sit it out to see if the weather improves as you can’t even see the other side of the fiord. Walking back to the car we spot a rare fiordland crested penguin sheltering under a bush.  They are moulting at the moment and can’t go in the water and it looks so sad with half it’s wet bedragled feathers poking out.  Rain stops mid afternoon so we walk to Bowen Falls dropping 160m from a hanging valley and pushing sprays of water into the fiord.  When we walk towards it we get absolutely drenched but it is great fun.   Get back to the van just before the rains starts again.   Chat to neighbouring motorhomers Mike & Marion and decide to go for the 10.30am cruise tomorrow and stay overnight on the car park.  They joins us for cards in the evening.
MILFORD SOUND

Monday 24 January    A brighter morning with the rain having stopped a few hours ago. Take the Red Boat cruise $59 (£20) which includes a visit to the underwater observatory.  Lady of the Sound passes many nice falls and rock formations en route to the Tasman Sea. Mitre Peak at 5,560 feet is one of the highest mountains in the world to rise directly from the ocean floor.  Originally called Milford Haven it was changed to Milford Sound which is strange as it was formed by a glacier which makes it a fiord.   The observatory is fantastic and unique with a floating pontoon going 8m underwater.  Viewing windows allow you to see coral formations which are suspended as hanging gardens.  Due to the area’s high rainfall (7 -9 metres a year) the fiord has a layer of freshwater floating on top of the saltwater allowing deep sea animals to thrive just a few metres below the surface.  Back on land our return journey is very different as most of the waterfalls dissapear within 1 hour of the rain stopping.  Notice an area of rock landslide onto the road which is a problem in summer.  In winter they have the snow avalanches to contend with.  The Homer Alpine nature walk takes us through an area with many alpine plants and flowers.  On the car park the Kea (the worlds only mountain parrot) is playing to the crowds and posing for photo’s.  One sits on the roof of our van and looks dangerously close to hopping in at one stage.  They are naughty birds and will pick the rubber from around the windows and steal anything they can.  Further along we walk over a very wobbly low sided swing bridge towards Marian Lake to see some waterfalls this time not steep but fast and furious.  Gunns camps was where the road crews used to stay and the huts are now used as accomodation for travellers.  Owner Murray Gunn is a bit of a card with lots of wise cracks.  He has tins of er’s and um’s and as Steve goes to enter the museum he calls out "Stop don’t go through that door – open it instead".  Not content with the water falls we have seen we drive further and then walk to Humboldt Falls which are very narrow but extremely high.  Boyd Creek is our final stop for the night and yes you’ve guessed – there is a walk to some waterfalls which are very pretty in a glade like setting.
BOYD CREEK

Tuesday 25 January     Pause in Te Anau to do the nature walk en route to Manapouri.  Marion (who’s van it is) has a friend here so we call in on Don & Joy who also have a B&B.  She offers use of her washing machine and computer and it is brilliant to see the first pictures of Natasha courtesy of Paul.  Don tells us of a good spot to free camp nearby at Safety Bay.
SAFETY BAY

Wednesday 26 January    The Doubtful Sound trip $160 (£53) leaves at 11.30am and we cruise the crystal clear waters of beautiful island-studded Lake Manapouri. Explore some interesting bays then disembark at the West Arm of the lake.  Travel by coach down a 2km spiral tunnel to the Manapouri Power Station machine hall deep beneath the mountain.  This is the biggest hydro power station in New Zealand.  The coach then takes us over the scenic Wilmot Pass.  The forest is initially Beech and they get 4m annual rainfall around the lake.  From the highest point of the pass heading towards Doubtful sound the trees change to fir and they get 9m rainfall – the highest in the world.  There are lots of white scars on the mountainside from tree avalanches.  The mountains are rock and everything that grows only has an initial base in the moss.  Once one tree starts to fall everything in the same carpet of moss goes with it.  Join the Commander Peak at Deep Cove for our 3 hour cruise on the sound.  The only other access to Doubtful Sound is via the Tasman Sea so the beautiful scenery is much the same as when the Spanish came 200 years ago.  Blanket Bay Hotel (for the fishermen and on a pontoon) is the last thing you expect to see in this wilderness. Yesterday Joy & Don told us they lived here for about 16 years but Joy only stuck it for the first few.  Fur seals abound on the Nee Islets where we about turn to explore crooked arm on the way back.  Spot 3 dolphins who come quite near the ship  Spot another pod of dolphins nearer Deep Cove and one swims along in our wake which is wonderful to see.  Coach and another boat finally get us back just before 8.00pm. The motorcaravan book leads us to a good spot on the Waiau riverbank en route to Invercargill.
WAIAU RIVER

Thursday 27 January  David’s 21st Birthday, hope we can get to speak to him later as we believe he is in Keighley.  Stop to look at the 100 year old Clifden suspension bridge which looks like a minature version of the Clifton one.  Pass lots of sheep in the fields and also cows, geese and deer.  At Aparima we manage to find the Southern Sun & Health Club and having tooted our horn Doreen appears in a car.  She is a member and lives nearby.  The southern most nudist club in the world it is run down and has few members.   For $10 (£3.30) we get the place to ourselves with a powered site, basic but hot showers and use of the cold but fairly clean swimming pool.  My hair has been driving me nuts so I grab the clippers and proceed to give myself a 3/8" number 3 cut all over.  What a shock to find that I am now quite grey (soon to be put right with a colour).  Steve is non commital on the style but admits it looks better than when it was a mess before!  How come it looked so good on Demi Moore and Sigourney Weaver?  Walk to Ray & Doreens and manage to speak to David on the phone.
INVERCARGILL, SOUTHERN SUN & HEALTH CLUB

Friday 28 January  Hot day so we sunbathe until late afternoon.  As we are leaving Doreen raids her garden and provides us with eggs, lettuce, onions, potatoes, carrots and flowers.  Thornbury rest area proves a nice stop on the banks of the Aparima River.
INVERCARGILL, SOUTHERN SUN & HEALTH CLUB 2

Saturday 29 January  Invercargill is quite a big town and the southern most one on mainland New Zealand.  There are many nice old buildings and we start by visiting the Southland museum at the tourist office.  Entry by donation it has a Subantarctic section, roaring forties gallery, art gallery, history and technology rooms and tuatara housse.  Tuatara are rare New Zealand reptiles living up to 150 years old and look like lizards.  By the time we emerge the heavens have opened up so we grab the brolly to walk the streets.  The Zookeepers Cafe is an interesting place for lunch.  "Tart of the day" would have appealed to Pete Scott!  Ten pin bowling $10 (£3.30) for 2 games with Steve getting 153, 176 and me 105, 155.  Bluff is the port area of Invercargill and busy in season with oyster and whitebait fishing.  Fred & Myrtle have decorated their house with paua (abalone) shells and for a donation you can visit.  Fred is 96 and they have been married for 71 years.  He sits in the lounge and talks at the visitors as he is deaf as a post.  The view from the lookout would probably be good on a clear day but we go for it anyway.  Rejoin the southern scenic route to take us round the coast in the Catlins area.  Fortrose bay makes a nice stop but it rains all night.
CATLINS – FORTROSE BAY

Sunday 30 January   Bright morning and we begin the many detours at Waipapa point lighthouse – scene of the worst shipping disaster in New Zealand in 1881.  Walk through heavily sheep soiled fields to Slope Point the southern most point in mainland New Zealand marked by nothing but a sign post where we pose for the obligatory photo.  Porpoise Bay is fantastic with the rare Hector’s dolphins frolicking in the bay amonst people clad in wet suits. The water is freezing but temptation takes hold and we force ourselves into the water.  Steve has the snorkel and goggles on as two dolphins swim within inches of him.  They swim all around us and surf on the waves, it’s fantastic.  Curio bay has a petrified forrest 180 million years old and you can make out the tree stumps and logs at low tide which is quite amazing.  Niagara Falls are a joke having been named for fun by an american.  They are the smallest falls we have seen so far!  It starts to rain but we plod on up the muddy track to park $5 (£1.65) for Cathedral Caves.  Walk for over half an hour to the beach and then along it to the caves.  The tide is still going out and we keep getting splashed as we turn into the high arched cave entrance.  It is aptly named and at the back of the cave you go around a corner and out into an adjoining one which is equally magnificent.  We want to look into the next cove but each time Steve tries to make it round the headland an enormous wave crashes in and he gets even wetter.  Give up and return soaked to the skin but grateful for the warmth of the camper and a change of clothes.  Settle at Tautuku Beach for the night.
CATLINS, TAUTUKI BEACH

Monday 31 January  Heavy rain all night and as our coats are still wet through we abandon thoughts of the other scenic detours.  The road is flooded at the MacLennan River and we wait until we see a truck come through.  We make it but the cars will have to wait for the level to drop with the tide.  Flooding in the area is terrible with many fields and gardens submerged.  Dunedin is where the first Scots settled and has some nice grey stone buildings.  Pick up a package from Claire with more of our Christmas cards and letters from friends and a video of "The Royales" from Netty.  Otago is another donation entry museum but not as good as the one in Invercargill so we only spend an hour there.  The rain has stopped to be replaced by strong winds.  The Otago peninsula is a famous wildlife haven.  Our drive takes us right along the shore of the Dunedin harbour with great views.  On Pilot Beach we walk amonst enormous fur seals and hundreds of birds.  There is a Royal Albatross colony here and we see some flying in the very strong winds.  Overnight on Pukehiki church car park.  It’s very cold and although the free standing gas heater looks a little un safe we are cold enough to use it.
OTAGO PENINSULA, PUHEHIKI CHURCH CAR PARK
 

 Steve & Glen Swatman-Tel 01630 655618. E-mail swatman2@hotmail.com
"Meadowview"74 Walkmill Road. Market Drayton. Shropshire TF9 1JZ. England.

* MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM DOWN UNDER*

Yes it’s that time once again and time does seem to fly faster as you get older.  We’re both fit & well and loving our life on the road.
December 1998  I had a brilliant birthday on Vera Playa beach in Spain. Laid in bed watching the sunrise then sipped champagne in the bath, had an all day party with about 20 people and enjoyed a beautiful sunset surpassed by the full moon reflected in the ocean as we stood round a campfire.  Confirmed the motorhome exchange in Australia and changed our plans returning to England for Christmas which was a big surprise for Claire.  Daniel enjoyed himself and it was good to be with friends and family.
January 1999  Flight to Perth booked for 29th of January.  Mum had angioplasty heart surgery but it didn’t work so she is now on the by pass waiting list.  Claire put their house on the market hoping to move to the Midlands.  "Charlie" is left in the good care of our friend Peter. 
February   We are borrowing "Dew Drop Inn" until December.  Fred and Maureen Dew are a lovely couple and set us up for our trip with an introduction to Perth and books and maps for our big tour.  Week 1 Steve jumped into the deep end of a swimming pool not realising there was a wide ledge at the side.  The hospital confirmed no major damage and strapped his ankle leaving me to drive.  South of Western Australia was brilliant.  Nice beaches and great places to free camp. £1 = $2.50 and many things in Australia have a dollar price equal to the pound.  Very friendly people and excellent first impressions.
March  Albany had great rocks formations, Wave Rock inland a huge multi coloured one, Esperance great beaches.  Kalgoorlie in the Goldfields has lots of mining history and here the cyclones start to catch up with us with a week of almost continuous wind and rain.  Cyclone Vance followed us on the big trip across the Nullarbor Plain into South Australia. We were one of the last cars to travel over before they closed the road.  
April  Followed the coast of the Eyre peninsula.  Through the Clare and Barossa Valleys to Adelaide where we met my brother in law’s family staying for 2 weeks visiting sights in the area. 
May  Coast south of Adelaide then up the Murray River to Renmark.   Claire moved to Market Drayton (address above).  Nuriootpa annual balloon was great with balloons tethered and lit up at night time. Clare Valley Gourmet weekend involved driving from vineyard to vineyard sampling food and wine.  Made the 18km walk/climb to St Mary Peak at Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges.  At Coober Pedy we enjoyed the 660km mail run on dirt track in the outback.  Confirmed a 6 month motorhome exchange in Nelson New Zealand from December.  
June  Alice Springs was not the flat desert we imagined.  Took a sunrise balloon flight with champagne breakfast.  Drove the West and East Macdonnell Ranges with many gorges and swimming holes.  Sandra arrived from England joining us at Ayers Rock for a 2 week tour up to Darwin.  A race against time with 3000km covered and lots of places visited.  Exciting news of Claire expecting a baby on December 14th. 
July  Time flew and we sadly dropped Sandra off and drove to a caravan park 80km South of Darwin.  David is now in Germany working on the roads (Auf Wiedersehen Pet springs to mind).  I went into Darwin to see friends off on a cruise and somehow ended up getting us a deal and phoning Steve to join us to set sail 2 hours later!   Oceanic Odyssey was fantastic and we spent 2 weeks visiting 12 Indonesian Spice Islands and being well and truly pampered.  
August  PCD (post cruise depression) set in but we hit the road and visited Kakadu taking a scenic flight over "Crocodile Dundee" country.   Headed West exploring lots of gorges and trying to loose our cruise bellies.  No rain for 3 months and a steady temperature around 30C.  Enjoyed 10 days in Broome during the Shinju Matsuri festival.
September  An exciting month exploring the North West coast of WA before heading into Chichester, Millstream and Karijini National Parks.  Did some long walks in magnificent gorges with lots of swimming holes.  Cape Range National Park near Exmouth was brilliant with good snorkelling by the Ningaloo Reef.  Saw whales at sea and turtles nesting on shore. Confirm another motorhome exchange from Sydney for 6 months from June 2000.     
October  Spectacular blowholes near Carnarvon. Receive our Olympic ticket allocation-Athletics, Badminton and closing ceremony. Steve hand fed the dolphins at Monkey Mia.  Kalbarri had excellent scenery in the national park.  Flight to New Zealand booked leaving Perth on 8th Dec returning to Sydney on 2nd June. Mum went in for heart surgery and the operation was successful.  David was working in Spain and heading back to England for Christmas planning to go to America for 2 years.
November   Pinnacles Desert in Namburg national park was great.  We drove round twice past thousands of different size, shape and coloured rocks.  Returned to Perth area with time to visit new found friends. 25,000km of this vast country covered.   We love the natural scenery but the friendly people have also made a lasting impression.

Would love to hear your news – (Our address until late December: N.S.C. PO Box 33. Upper Moutere. Nelson. New Zealand.) or better still let us know if you would like to visit.
Our best wishes for your health and happiness in the new millenium from

Wednesday 1 December 1999  The first day of Summer in Australia and the worst weather so far with clouds blocking the sun most of the time!  Do a bit of cleaning up but mainly relax and watch some Australian videos.
PERTH, SUNSEEKERS SUN CLUB 3

Thursday 2 December   Another cloudy day with Perth forecast for the coolest weather in Australia at 25C.  Make a determined effort to clean "Dew Drop Inn".  Steve borrows a ladder to clean the outside from top to bottom and I start emptying and cleaning out cupboards.  This leaves us both shattered – not being used to physical work!  Phone call from Claire late at night to say she is going into hospital with high blood pressure and may be induced.
PERTH, SUNSEEKERS SUN CLUB 4

Friday 3 December  Brighter day so a quick clean of the carpets and fridge then out to enjoy the sun.  Do quite a lot of swimming but take it in turns to go to the pool so one of us can be by the phone just in case we get news of Claire.
PERTH, SUNSEEKERS SUN CLUB 5

Saturday 4 December  Very hot day so we linger at the club until 10.30.  Collect our flight tickets en route to Dudley & Angela’s.  Enjoy a swim in their pool before the street party starts.  There are 3 cul de sac’s here and each year everyone gathers on someone’s front lawn for a BBQ.  It is a great chance to meet the neighbours including a few new ones.  Santa arrives with presents for the younger children and we all enjoy ourselves.  Phone Daz and hear that Claire is staying in hospital and they may induce her on Monday.  It is a scorching day but by early evening clouds roll in and we get a few spots of rain.
PERTH, HILLARYS 

Sunday 5 December  Open my birthday cards (thank you all) and display them on the dash board.  Prize for the rudest goes to Mum just ahead of the Scotts!  A short stroll to the beach for an early morning swim, that’s 3 years on the trot  – Crete, Spain and now Australia.   Angela, Dudley, Emma & Samuel give me a card and some chocolates when we get back. Hear news that yesterday reached 38.5C the second hottest temperature this year.  Back to Mulberry Farm to meet Lesley and John for the luncheon and cruise $27.50 (£11).  The phone rings and we dive for it in the hope of news from Claire and get Gerry & Anne phoning to wish me Happy Birthday. Card and present from John & Lesley – I am doing well this year.  Following our starters we walk down to the jetty for a 1/2 cruise up the Swan River.  They ask if anyone has a birthday and Lesley and John kindly?!? point me out and everyone sings Happy Birthday.  Back for the rest of the meal which is almost the same as last Saturdays excellent food.  There is a pianist and singer and Happy Birthday is sung for a second time followed by Santa paying a visit.  Over to John & Lesley’s warehouse for a bit of shopping en route to their house where the pool is greatly appreciated as it is another hot day.  Follow this up with an hour sat together in the big hot spa tub sipping drinks.  Their house is magnificent and we feel like we are in a resort.  Pop into the van and the phone rings again.  My adopted Mum & Dad – Keith & Diana – are phoning to wish me Happy Birthday. We met near Darwin, Keith from Sheffield and Diana from Wolverhampton.  I was born on the same day as their now dead son hence me being adopted.  Watch "Liar Liar" (don’t rate it) with John and Lesley and chat about our lifestyle as they are in a position to and would like to do the same.
PERTH, WINTHROP

Monday 6 December  Join Lesley & John for breakfast before heading towards Perth centre.   Lesley has put me on to a jeweller who may be able to do some work on my engagement ring.  After 25 years it is wearing very thin but I don’t want to replace it.  Meet Paul at his home where he sells jewellery at wholesale prices, makes and repairs it.  He says he can virtually remake my ring using the original diamond and all the remaining gold.  Back to Burswood Casino for the heritage walk around the gardens scattered with bronze historical figures.  Over the river to Perth to do the 3 hour city walk.  Everything is well spaced out and we are thankful for the cooling breeze whistling through the streets.  See quite a few nice old buildings, London arcade which looks like a narrow street in York, one nice and one neglected church, a busy pedestrian shopping area, pretty parks and a few modern sky scrapers. Drive back along sunset coast.
PERTH, HILLARYS

Tuesday 7 December  Visit Swanbourne for our last spell on the nudist beach.  Back mid afternoon to start on the last lot of washing and cleaning up.  Claire now back at home in waiting.  Fred’s son Warren and wife Elana call in the evening and having visited Fred & Maureen in England and Ireland they have lots to tell us.  Fred’s daughter Jo also arrives having flown over from Sydney.  They are all gathered to welcome Fred & Maureen back on Friday.
PERTH, HILLARYS

Wednesday 8 December  A very difficult job packing as we seem to have acquired a lot of extra things.  Collect my ring from Paul who has done a fantastic job on it.  It looks even better than it did when new with much more gold in it and a nicer setting.  The work $500 (£200) also cost more than the original ring but looks worth it.  Last minute filling up of fuel and gas and clearing out the van.  Hear on the news that the runner Pat Farmer (whom we came across many times in the North of the country) has arrived in Canberra to finish his run around Australia in a record of just short of 200 days.  He has averaged almost 100km day and is now doing a "victory lap" by running to Sydney! 
Final summary for our Australia trip:-
25859km   16068 miles   distance covered in the motorhome
3435.8 litres   755.87 gallons  diesel used
$2770.52   £1130   spent on fuel
7.52 km a lt.   21.39 miles a gallon average 
307      nights on tour
58 nights 25 different  caravan parks
33 nights 4 different  naturists clubs
202 nights    free camping
14 nights    on the cruise
Jo takes us out to the airport for our 8.00pm flight.  Having received back the money we spent on Fred’s van we have a surplus of Australian dollars so hit the duty free shop to get Steve a new razor (with a free electric toothbrush) and some booze.  Our Air New Zealand flight leaves on time and the film is Lake Placid.
FLIGHT PERTH TO NELSON

Thursday 9 December  New Zealand is 5 hours ahead of Perth and 13 hours ahead of GMT as they are now using daylight saving time.  The flight should take 6 1/2 hours and the time flies by (excuse the pun) with us landing 1/2 hour early at 7.00am in Auckland NEW ZEALAND.  A quiet airport but with lots of officials present and 2 different types of dog to sniff around the baggage.  Courtesy bus to the domestic terminal where we are booked on the 10.00am flight to Nelson.  I notice an earlier one at 8.40am and manage to get us on that.  Phone Marion who says it will be no problem to meet us earlier.  Walk out to the 37 seat plane which is half empty.  Auckland looks nice and as we fly over the coast we take in scenery reminiscent of England but with more mountains.  Nelson looks bigger than we anticipated and we land at 10.10am to pleasantly warm weather.  Marion arrives shortly after to take us back to "Sunflower Cottage" which she runs with husband Chris as a bed and breakfast.  Just a short walk from town it is a lovely place which they are in the process of renovating and enlarging.  The motorhome is not quite ready so we have to "put up" with using a lovely room with king size bed, en-suite and own kitchen.  Marion & Chris are 58 and came from England in 1950/51 and spent time in Australia before settling in New Zealand.  They want to borrow "Charlie" so they can visit relatives in England.  Steve gives in to jet lag so I take the opportunity to walk into town and do a recce.  Goods seem to have a dollar price about the same as Australia which with just over NZ£3 = £1 will make things a further 20% cheaper to us.  Cadbury’s chocolate is available here and I succumb to 2 x 250gm bars on offer for $5 (£1.70).  Lots of different varieties here and I settle on Licorice and Double Exposure. Diesel is a bargain at around 60c (20P) litre but in addition you have to buy a tax for kilometres covered and this costs around $180 (£60) for 5,000km.  Nelson looks much more like an English town than the Australian ones and at Sunflower Cottage we have views of the mountains to the front and a back garden leading down to the River.  In the evening we are joined by Jackie and Tony also originally from England and we eat curry then play cards.  We have not played Canasta before but soon get the hang of the basics.  Jackie goes Ten Pin Bowling and ask us to join her for the regular game tomorrow.
NELSON

Friday 10 December  Get a good nights sleep waking for the first time at 7.00am.  Steve lingers in bed wallowing in the comfortable and spacious bed.  He has already spent more time in bed than out having had a 4 hour snooze yesterday afternoon.  Transfer most of our things into the motorhome and find we have plenty of cupboard space.  Although 3′ shorter than ours it is a similar design with settee opposite a single dinette then the kitchen and bathroom at the back.  Since agreeing to swap with us they have put in new windows and a new larger fridge. They have also installed a flushing toilet with holding tank so at last I shall be able to use the loo without Steve scowling at me.  There is a TV/Video which will enable us to do our video editing along the way but surprisingly no radio or cassette in the cab.  Marion has made new curtains and bought new bedding so although a 1985 vehicle it looks nice inside.  The cooker has developed a gas leak and the repair man decides to take it away and bring it back next week.  Jackie calls to take us to afternoon bowling.  It’s over 50’s but guests are welcome and we play 2 games $8 (£2.70) followed by tea and biscuits.  They are a good crowd and although we don’t bowl too well on the rather old lanes (Steve 144 & 108 and me 123 & 145) we enjoy the company.  Play Canasta with Chris and Marion in the evening.
NELSON 2

Saturday 11 December  A very cloudy start to the day.  Drive into town to start stocking up the van.  When we come out of the supermarket it is pouring down but not cold.  Call at the Irish pub for a $5 (£1.65) lunch time special with beer on offer at 2 for $6 (£2).  Looks like our money is going to go a long way here.  Back to Sunflower Cottage where I play about filling the cupboards and put our Christmas decorations up.  Marion is out for the day so we spend the late afternoon and evening wallowing in bed and watching TV whilst listening to the rain.
NELSON 3

Sunday 12 December   Head out to Upper Moutere to visit Nelson Sun Club.  It’s a great feeling to be back on the road again even though we will return to Nelson next week.  Steve struggles a bit with the gears as reverse is where 1st normally is and then 1st is where 2nd would be.  There is no power steering so it will take some getting used to.  The clouds bring rain as we arrive at the club but as we have come to meet the people we will be spending Christmas with it doesn’t matter too much.  Peter and Marcia replied to my initial e-mail enquiry and have been in contact with friendly letters ever since.  Marcia spots us coming up the drive and walks down to great us with mail.  It’s a lovely club with plenty of space for campers on powered sites at $15 (£5).  There is a golf course, swimming pool, hot tub, flying fox, tennis court and good ablution and kitchen facilities.  It brightens up late afternoon and we sit out then wallow in the hot tub.
NELSON SUN CLUB

Monday 13 December  Steady rain to start the day.  Walter & Nissa live here and we have been asked to call on them by our mutual friends Keith & Diana.  Having come out from England 10 years ago they settled in Christchurch but moved here to live at the Sun Club a couple of years ago.  They also play Canasta and we arrange to meet for a game this evening.  We think corned beef here is the same as salted beef in England and I use the kitchen in the club house to cook our joint.  The whole thing cost $4 (£1.33) and gives us a good feed for our roast dinner with heaps left over for sandwiches etc. Enjoy our card evening until midnight.
NELSON SUN CLUB 2

Tuesday 14 December  Marion phones to say the man wants to fit the oven at 2.00pm today so back to Nelson.   Take Marion & Chris out for a meal in the evening to the Boatshed a rustic seafood restaurant hanging over the water.  We then go to Tony & Jackie’s for coffee.  There’s a superb view from their hill top spot looking down the valley and out over the ocean.  Marion and Chris will be away when we return their van and have asked us to leave it with Tony.  They will be using Charlie from 23rd May until 31st July.
NELSON

Wednesday 15 December  Back into town for a final serious shop with a determined effort to pick up the odd things we have kept putting off.  There are a number of things we need which Marion doesn’t have such as Scrabble, Backgammon, Hot water bottle.  Finally leave town at mid day heading West along the coast.  Mapua is a clothing optional resort where we had thought of spending Christmas.  Call to check it out and realise that we have made the right decision as it is very commercialised and the vast majority of people are clothed.  Takaka Hill peaks at just over 900m and we very slowly wind our way round the hair pin bends.  The views our great but Steve misses out as he concentrates on the driving.  Down the other side and back to the coast.  Our drive in Kahurangi National Park takes us on dirt track down the scenic Westhaven/Whanganui inlet.  We camp where the Paturau River flows into the Tasman Sea at the bottom of the cliffs.  It’s breezy but a lovely spot for our first night free camping in New Zealand.  This seems to be a country of many contrasts and we have already seen English towns and green countryside, Welsh sheep, Austrian Alps, Norwegian Fjords and from Greece the gorges of Crete with lots of palm trees.
WHANGANUI INLET, PATURAU RIVER

Thursday 16 December  I awake around 5.00am having just had a thought that Claire has had a baby girl.  Manage to get back to sleep but when we both wake later I tell Steve about it and he says he dreamt the same thing.  No phones out here to check.  Follow the road to the end at Anatori River.  A beautiful spot again where the river flows into the sea.  We park in a grassy field on the river bank and are welcomed by a very friendly horse who pokes his head into the van.   I didn’t mind Skippy coming in the van but a horse is a different ball game so I quickly shut the door and the horse moves round to peer at us through the window.  Steve spots an even better spot a little further on and we move there and avoid the horse.  It’s a nice warm day so we set up to enjoy a spot of sunbathing.  The river is really clear and Steve finds an area with a nice plunge pool.  Wade through the river to take a walk along the beach backed by smooth caves and get back just before we are cut off by high tide.
ANATORI RIVER

Friday 17 December  The road back is rough and narrow and as we negotiate a blind corner a BP tanker comes straight towards us.  Steve swerves to the left but the road drops away and as we slither past the tanker he tries to get us back on course whilst braking hard.  We skid on the gravel and slur across the track to the other side where the road drops off into the water.  We grind to a halt straight across the road with the front wheels inches from the edge.  The tanker backs up to offer help but we manage to reverse out and pull over to assess the damage.  Nothing hit on the outside and nothing broken inside but the custard on the trifle has done a good job pebble dashing the fridge.  Yes it’s Tubby custard everywhere again!  Cupboards straightened out we set off again even slower than before knowing that the mail run bus has still to come through.  Stop on the inlet opposite the opening to test out the echo effect which is excellent.  Detour to Pakawau to phone Claire but the answerphone kicks in.  Phone Netty and hear that Claire had a girl Natasha Leigh 7lb 4oz at 2.53pm on the 15th.  Both doing well.  Make a quick calculation and realise that with us being 13 hours ahead that was 3.53am on the 16th and would coincide with our premonition.  We are delighted to have a grand daughter and only hope it wont be too long before we meet her.  At Wharariki we park and walk for 20 minutes over the dunes to reach the beach.  A fabulous spot with bold cliff lines, high arches, caves, rock bridges and massive dunes.  It’s low tide and we walk along the waters edge and stumble upon a big fur seal.   Already close Steve tries to get closer for a photo but it starts to move towards him flapping and honking.  Back off and carry on along the beach seeing even more seals on one of the rocky islands.  Explore lots of caves and enjoy the changing rock shapes as we stroll along.  Next stop Farewell Spit visitor centre to view the 35km sandspit.  Lots of unusual birds here and we spot a baby heron amongst others we can’t identify.  Pick up a German hitch-hiker as we head back towards Takaka.  Get quite a few travel ideas before dropping him when we turn off to Pupu Springs.  The water in the springs area is said to be the cleanest in the world and the springs pump up 14,000 litres (40 bath tubs full) a second.  The deep blue water looks wonderful and they have provided a mirrored periscope to view through.  On the Anatoki River we visit Bencarri Farm $8 (£2.70) primarily to see the eels.  There are many endangered and rare domestic farm animals here and you are invited to go into most of the pens to stroke them.  Some animals roam freely and a goat hops up onto a table to polish off the remains of a meal!  It’s very quiet and the normal feeding times are not being adhered to so we are given some meat and a stick to do it ourselves.  A short stroll upstream takes us to the feeding area and as Steve crouches down with the food loads of long black eels appear from nowhere.  They gobble the food from the stick and he even gets to stroke them and says they feel very silky.  Begrudgingly I feed them just so he can take a photo and say that I have done it but I don’t enjoy it and have no intention of stroking them.   Abel Tasman National Park is our last port of call for the day.  Head up the coast towards Totaranui and park to walk to Wainui Falls.  We tramp (in New Zealand you tramp whereas in Australia you bush walk and in England you ramble) through jungle with nikau palms, strangling rata trees and riots of ferns.  (Quote from a brochure!)   You have to cross quite a long wobbly rope bridge.  Steve doesn’t like at all and says he feels more scared doing that than when we nearly hit the tanker this morning.   The high falls are spectacular and alone we sit and take in our surroundings.  Walking back Steve decides the water looks tempting and tests the temperature for a dip.  He no sooner puts his hand in than an eel appears which makes the decision very easy.  Just when I thought we had got rid of crocodiles and other things to put me off swimming.  At least when we are walking we don’t need to worry about spiders and snakes.
TOTARANUI PARK, WAINUI FALLS  

Saturday 18 December  A drizzly start to the day but it dries up as we head back over Takaka Hill.  Stop in Motueka for fuel and a motorhome pulls up with GB stickers on.  Charles & Alwyn came from Whitchurch but now live in Devon.  In England they travel on their 69′ houseboat in the summer and live in their house in winter.  They exchanged use of their boat last summer for use of a motorhome now.  They mention they would like to do an exchange and borrow a motorhome in England.  We say that our van will be available from next August and also that we will be "homeless" in the summer of 2001.  They would like to borrow Charlie from next August and offer their house in Devon for a few months when they use their houseboat and also use of their house in 2001.  If it comes off it will be another chance encounter with good results.  Back to Nelson Sun Club where we just manage to fit in 9 holes of golf before the rain starts.  Steve returns to the van to find a sparrow sitting on the carpet, we are beginning to feel like Doctor Doolittle!  Join Marcia & Peter for an evening of canasta which once again goes through until midnight.
NELSON SUN CLUB

Sunday 19 December  Nice sunny day.  Chat to Stuart & Elaine from Dorset.  Steve has a sporting day playing both golf and miniten.  Depart at 5.00pm and call to visit Don & Coral in  Richmond.  We met Don’s sister Sharyn with Patrick on the recumbent trikes in Australia.  Don & Coral are well travelled and we have a good chat.
RICHMOND

Monday 20 December   Away at 6.30am to pick up Malcolm & Barbara at Nelson airport.  We first met when they were backpacking round Turkey in October 1997.  They live in London but are back in New Zealand for the first time in 3 1/2 years.  Their plane lands early and they are waiting when we arrive.  Drive West to Riwaka resurgence to see where the River appears under a cave.  Out to the Abel Tasman National Park with a stop at the nice sandy beach at Kaiteriteri.  Reasonably quiet now we are told that after Christmas it will be heaving as it is the peak holiday season here.  Park at the Aqua Taxi base in Marahau as we are using them tomorrow.  It’s a lovely day and we sit out on the grass.  Malcolm & Barbara help us to plan our route around the North Island.  No  problem sharing the van as they have had a motorhome.
ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, MARAHAU

Tuesday 21 December  The Aqua Taxi $35 (£12) picks us up at 9.00am for our ride up the coast to Totaranui and then back down to be dropped at Bark Bay allowing us to walk back out of the park.  A tractor appears towing a speed boat on a trailer and we all climb on board and don our life jackets.  You feel pretty daft being towed along the road to the sea but it saves walking.  Backing down the boat ramp we are soon on the move first to view "split apple rock".  Heading up the coat we pass dozens of small secluded beaches and others which are big.  All have golden coloured sand and beautiful turquoise waters.  We get close to the fur seals on Tonga island and some seem to enjoy putting on a display for us in the water.  Land at Bark Bay at 11.30am to begin our 20km walk South to Marahau.  We climb up the hill at the back of the beach and walk through lush green forest.  There are many bridges to cross including one rope bridge but it is much more secure than the one the other day.   7.7km later we arrive at Torrent Bay and stop for a bite to eat.   It’s almost low tide so we can walk over the mud flats to get to Anchorage Bay saving us an hour climbing over the hill.  There are still some wet patches and as Malcolm is wearing sandals he piggy backs Barbara and I over to save us taking off our boots.  Steve has to make his own way.  Anchorage is a large Bay and over 100 yachts are expected to be here next week.  At the corner of the Bay we sunbathe between some rock caves and notice names of ships carved into the stone.  We leave at the other end of the bay and begin a long slow climb upwards but are rewarded with magnificent views.  After an hour we drop down and leave the track to check out Stillwater Bay.  Another nice beach so we settle down to relax and eat.  We are getting a bit weary and must look it as a man we have been chatting to offers us a boat ride.  He is waiting for the high tide to get back to Marahau but says he can take us a couple of bays closer.  We are dropped off at Coquille Bay and walk around to Tin Bay to pick up the main track.  Arrive back around 6.00pm feeling pretty pleased with ourselves.  Camp out at Motueka in a beach side car park by the saltwater pool.  Because of the high tides here the sea goes a long way out so a pool has been built by the shore and this retains water at low tide.  We hear Christmas carols and spot a lorry driving round with carol singers.
MOTUEKA

Wednesday 22 December  Wake up to find a large old bus type motorhome parked by us.  We are just getting ready to leave when we notice an old lady come out of it and head for the toilets in what looks like a flowery night dress and a floral shower type cap.  Shortly after the bus starts moving and as it heads up the road the lady emerges from the toilet block.  She chases after it but it picks up speed and the driver obviously doesn’t know she isn’t in it!  By now we are all rolling around laughing as it looks so comical.  We realise her predicament so drive up to offer her a lift.  She says her husband is 80 and f-ing deaf and too f-ing old to be driving a bus like that!  Catch up with him at the petrol station but amazingly he doesn’t bat an eyelid when she emerges from our van.  Perhaps he does it on a regular basis.  It’s a lovely day and perfect for Nelson Sun Club where Malcolm and Barbara get an introduction to naturism.  We all play golf, swim and sit in the spa.  Malcolm & Steve enter the twilight golf handicap competition and we join them after at the club sausage sizzle.  Follow this up with rides on the children’s flying fox.  You sit across a T bar and slide down the line but when you get to the end you are brought to an abrupt halt which can be painful.  Stroll down the driveway at night to be amazed by the glow worms which appear as lots of lights at the side of the brook.  Also spot a few hedgehogs.
NELSON SUN CLUB

Thursday 23 December  Malcolm & Barbara took a double room in the house last night $25 (£8) so we have a late breakfast before Malcolm & Steve head off round the golf course.  Barbara helps me complete the rest of our tour plan.  Steve then plays miniten but Malcolm stays inside as he has burnt in a few spots (sausage sizzle time again?).  Back to Nelson for our last pre Christmas shop.  It doesn’t feel like Christmas at all as there are no decorations in town and not even a Christmas tree.  Reckon we’ve got more decorations in our van than there are in the whole of Nelson.   Do the touristy bit and check out the church before driving to the town beach at Tahunanui for tea.  Malcolm used to live in Nelson and we meet up with some of his relatives before driving to the airport.  Spend the night on Marion & Chris’s driveway as we have a few van problems to sort tomorrow.
NELSON

Friday 24 December   Chris manages to repair the shower problems and water leak but will need someone else to look at the fridge problem.  When on gas the fridge is not cold inside but it is very hot outside and actually burnt the curtain.  Call at a vineyard out of town where you can buy spirits and liqueurs on tap.  Fill up 500ml water bottles with Irish Cream and Kahlua.  Return to the Club for our relaxing week on site.  Early evening everyone congregates round the Christmas tree to sing carols.  Heavy rain through the night.
NELSON SUN CLUB

Saturday 25 December   Merry Christmas.  It seems strange that it is only Christmas eve evening in England.   Wake to a warm but cloudy morning.  I have been asked to prepare the carrot Caesar salad and the sultanas have been soaking in orange juice overnight.  Steve grates the carrot whilst I chop the spring onion and cut Christmas tree shapes out of carrot.  Christmas dinner is the only time of year when you must get dressed as many of the permanent residents here have relatives joining us.  Dinner starts at 12.30 with 42 converging on the club house.  The seafood platter and pate starters are passed around before we are seated.  The food is excellent and plentiful and Santa calls with a sack of presents.  We were all asked to buy a $5 gift to donate.  I receive a mini flower arrangement and Steve a mini fan.  The meal lasts until nearly 3.00pm when a round of golf commences.  I take the time out to catch up on the diary.  Up to Wilf & Junes for a drink and just as we are walking back to the van Steve gets collared for another round of golf.  Afterwards Peter, Marcia and son Stuart join us for a drink.
NELSON SUN CLUB 2

Sunday 26 December  Seems strange phoning England this morning to say "Merry Christmas".  It’s a very hot day and we make the most of it.
NELSON SUN CLUB 3

Monday 27 December  A miserable rainy morning so much for the forecast of 3 very hot days!  Marcia arranges a cards afternoon in the club house.
NELSON SUN CLUB 4

Tuesday 28 December  A dull start to the day but brighter later.  One of the club members is flying over to take aerial photographs in the afternoon and I suggest we lie down naked on the lawn to spell out N.S.C. (Nelson Sun Club). It takes some time organising and we have two false alarms before the plane arrives and we take up position. 
NELSON SUN CLUB 5

Wednesday 29 December  A beautiful hot day (not forecast) and chance to catch up on the washing.  The weather and weather forecasting here are about as good as in England and they are also having an unusually bad summer.  Alex & Marie roll up next to us in their caravan and a tent is pitched besides them in preparation for New Years Eve.  Photographers from the Nelson Mail come to visit and want a photo of a game of miniten with the backs of lots of people watching.  Steve & Marcia play the game whilst we all sit on benches.  Our Christmas packet finally arrives from Claire just in time for us to add the Christmas cards to our display.  Daniel has certainly altered in the photos and we almost fight over who is to read what first.  Steve enters the regular Wednesday twilight golf handicap tournament followed by the sausage sizzle.
NELSON SUN CLUB 6

Thursday 30 December  A cloudy but very warm day and definately better than the shocking weather being reported in Europe.  John & Mary join us for 2 games of Canasta mid day.  Enjoy hopping between the hot spa and the pool.  Fit in a round of golf with Steve getting 45 and me 43.  I manage to get the ball on the green with 1 or 2 shots but can’t putt.  Steve can putt but can’t drive straight.  Perhaps we should try going round as a joint team to see what score we get.  Peter & Marcia join us for Canasta in the evening.  Reckon we are becoming addicts.
NELSON SUN CLUB 7

Friday 31 December    Another cloudy day.  We are just not used to this having spent so long in 30C in Australia.  How would we ever cope in an English winter?   I prepare curried potatoes and garlic bread for this evenings buffet.  The "Nelson Mail" has been a sell out with the club photo on the front page.  Our moment of fame on the last day of the century!  The evening celebrations begin at 8.00pm with the BBQ $5 (£1.70), ham steaks, sausages and salmon with salad.  Heather has made 4 sponge cakes and covered them with cream and the delicious Boysenberries which are popular here.  I suggested that she cut one out to look like a 2 so the whole thing now reads 2000.   Charades, dancing and line games follow leading up to the konga which ends in the lounge at midnight.  We gather by the TV and do Auld Lang Syne then run down to the pool discarding clothes en route.  I am about 5th into the pool but manage to be the first person of the century into the hot spa tub.  I am then joined by a record 16 people in the 5 person tub.
NELSON SUN CLUB 8  
Summary for 1999
4 countries visited – England, Australia, Indonesia and New Zealand
Distance travelled in a motorhome 27484 km – 17079 miles

Monday 1 November 1999  Driving out to Lake Indoon the radio announces predicted temperatures of 30C today for Geraldton region adding that it is already 31C.  Lake Indoon is a pretty lake used for water sports.  $20 (£8) week, $7 (£2.80) night.  No one else is here so we set up camp near the toilet/shower block and find ourselves a nice spot on the sandy beach.  A workman calls in for his lunch break and assures us that although there are Amoebic Meningitis warning signs there is no problem.  There were heavy rains recently and the lake is flowing.  He tells us of a water ski display at the weekend so we may stay longer.  The water is pleasantly warm and if we could just get rid of the flies it would be a top spot.  Noisy birds at night.  The Kookaburra seems to set all the others off in relay! 
LAKE INDOON

Tuesday 2 November  On the beach before 9.00am as it is so hot.    Exercise by making a few swims out to the buoys about 50m off shore.  3 more vans park up. 
LAKE INDOON 2

Wednesday 3 November   The 3 vans leave and then Gwen and Roly turn up followed closely by Gerry & Anne setting up camp further round the shore.  Gerry & Anne call for a chat in the afternoon then Roly & Gwen join us for Rummykub in the evening.
LAKE INDOON 3

Thursday 4 November  Up at 7.00am, on the beach and in the water by 7.30am. Peace is shattered early afternoon when an agricultural college mini bus rolls up.  Term has just finished and the students are here for two days water ski-ing fun.  We relocate to a quiet spot further round the lake.  Gerry & Anne teach us bush rummy in the afternoon and come back in the evening to chat.  They are just a bit older than us and it is nice to chat to people of our age.
LAKE INDOON 4

Friday 5 November  Woken at 6.00am by the speed boats.  Lie in bed watching the parrots on the nearby tree.  Get up when the ranger calls just before 8.00am.  We all get together for a boules tournament late afternoon. Chilli Pasta for 6 and a game of Scattergories to follow.
LAKE INDOON 5
 
Saturday 6 November  Breezy day with a few clouds.  A few boats arrive and bomb around the lake.  Gerry & Anne join us for cards in the evening and before we know it is after 12.00.
LAKE INDOON 6

Sunday 7 November  Clear blue sky and a calm lake for the skiers.  Lake Indoon Fun Day includes beach volley ball and fun games but the turn out is poor.  We have a ringside view in front of the van and watch some water ski stunts including a pyramid formation.  Spend more time with Gerry & Anne in the evening and learn how to eat a Tim Tam (Penguin type) biscuit Aussie style.  You use it as a straw in your coffee.  First take a small bite out of a corner then another out of the diagonal corner.  Use the biscuit to suck up the coffee and the minute the coffee gets to your mouth you gobble the biscuit whole.  Disgusting but yummy. 
LAKE INDOON 7

Monday 8 November  Hit the road heading South down the coast.  Breakfast in Greenhead at Point Louise with a good view of the coast.  Dynamite Bay is almost a complete circle.  Fill up on water and head to Jurien Bay.  A nice holiday resort with a good beach but very exposed to the wind.  Reach Cervantes and having made a quick detour to Lake Thetis and Hansen Bay lookout it’s mid day.  The fisherman’s basket is great value at $8 (£3.20).  We share one and enjoy 1 long crab stick, 3 fish, 2 prawns, 2 calamari, 2 scallops and chips.   Into Nambung National Park with a stop at Hangover Bay.  Take a siesta before checking out the beach where someone has made a Telly Tubby in the sand.  Just inland is the Pinnacles Desert and it’s brilliant.  We drive a 3.5km loop through the desert between thousands of small jutting out rocks.  The different sizes, shapes and colours make a wonderful sight, so good that we go around the loop a second time.   Phone Mum and find out that she is making very good progress but still a bit sore.  Claire is getting weary and wants the birth to hurry up – reckon she might change her mind once she is getting up in the night!  Park just outside town at the Tuart Reserve.
The water we put in is awful and smells and tastes like T.C.P. but we believe it is the Australian chlorine which everyone complains about.
NR PINNACLES, TUART RESERVE

Tuesday 9 November  We are now in the Midlands region which is mainly a wheat growing area.  Turn inland to Moora where the Shire caravan park $15 (£6) has free washing machines and dryers.  I spend a manic day washing everything washable in the van ready for it’s return.
MOORA, SHIRE CARAVAN PARK
 
Wednesday 10 November  Early start with the first stop the monastic town of New Norcia.  Quite a few big impressive buildings which used to be colleges.  Toodyay has an interesting tourist office in Connors Mill but little else of interest to us.  A quiet stop for a siesta and lunch at Northam cemetery.  Northam is the biggest inland town and has the longest suspension footbridge in Australia crossing the Avon River.  A homesick Brit. brought some white swans over and they still breed on the river banks.  Drive the historical waking trail but compared to Europe nothing is very old and the buildings are far apart.  Pick up a 12kg (27lb) sack of oranges $8 (£3.20) at a roadside stall in Bindoon.   York is our favourite town in the area as the main street has a concentration of old buildings and looks a bit like Disney.  Gwambygine Park is a good overnight stop with toilets, water, BBQ’s and walking trails but also the obligatory flies.  Juice making begins and I use about 1/3 sack to make 2 litres. 
GWAMBYGINE PARK

Thursday 11 November   Beverley is next and we drive through admiring the 2 Art Deco buildings and 2 planes in the main street.  (Much prefer the English versions of York & Beverley).  Start to drive the historical trail in Narrogin and pull up quickly when we spot a garden full of strange scarecrow characters with teddy bear heads.  Ray sees us with the camera and comes out to welcome us.  He’s a bit eccentric but tells us some funny tales.  We see lots of old cottages with pretty rose gardens and a fairly interesting main street but for us Australia is more about the outback, natural scenery and people.  Arrive in Collie late afternoon where we have come to visit Colin & Dot.  They part own Eden Park Par 3 golf course and we first met them in June when Sandra was travelling with us.  Colin had an accident some years ago and now they work the golf course in the summer and travel in the winter.  A daughter and son have 1/4 shares and look after it when they are away.  It’s a lovely spot on the banks of the Collie River.  Daughter in law Maralyn calls round. She came from Sedgley near Wolverhampton but has lived here for 17 years. Lots of reminiscing follows.
COLLIE

Friday 12 November  Steve helps Colin by looking after the shop whilst Dot & I go shopping.  Return to find them both taking a "smoko" (tea break) having had no customers.  Have a go around the 9 hole course which for some reason they claim to be par 3!   It’s a pretty riverside course with lots of wildflowers including Kangaroo Paw.  Dot’s friend Bernice joins us all for an excellent Chinese at the local restaurant.  I drive back as everyone is rather merry – Steve gets a shock when he tries to walk through the patio doors which are closed!
COLLIE 2

Saturday 13 November  Colin takes us for a drive around.  Harris Dam was created when the water at Wellington Dam became salty.  Minnimup Pool near town would make a great camping spot were we not already fixed up.  At Wellington Dam we spot Lee & Gayleen whom we previously met near Kings Canyon and in Darwin.  It’s amazing how often we bump into people despite the size of the country.  The quarry created when the dam wall was built is now used as an outdoor theatre and today people are rock climbing the sides.  Downstream we see white water rafting and it whets our appetite for our planned adventures in New Zealand.  Call in to Honeymoon Pool and Potters Gorge which are also great camping spots.  Steve thoroughly enjoys being chauffeured.  Late afternoon daughter Karen calls round and her children Jordan and Jack spend time in the van with us.  Enjoy a BBQ in the evening.
COLLIE 3

Sunday 14 November  Karen’s husband Graham takes us out to Premier open cast coal mine where he works.  The machinery is enormous and we both ride in a Euclid R260 240 ton trucks which can carry loads up to 300 tons.  The tyres alone are higher than Steve and we climb 3 flights of stairs to reach the balcony area where the cab is.  Visit the computer control centre where every vehicle is monitored.  Sit in a P&H 2800 electric rope shovel where only 4 scoops are needed to fill a Euclid truck.   News from England that David is now in Luxembourg and everyone is well.  Return and find a picture pushed under the door from Jack and Jordan which makes us think about Daniel.  Colin BBQ’s some steak in the evening.  They have a wood burner on the patio which also acts as a BBQ and heats the water too.  They have no mains water here and pump river water for washing and collect rain water for drinking which tastes heaps better than the chlorinated stuff. 
COLLIE 4

Monday 15 November  Steve makes another attempt to get round the golf course and is much quicker without me.  Dot drops us in town and we spend a few hours sorting out our European Christmas cards and diary letter.  Call at their son Andrew’s in the afternoon to look at his video studio.  Shame we hadn’t been here a couple of weeks ago to do a better job of editing our tape.  My turn to cook for us all and the now "world famous" Chilli Pasta is on the menu again.
COLLIE 5

Tuesday 16 November  Back to the coast at Australind and up the Old Coast Road to Mandurah.  Quite a shock to come upon such a big town.  The housing is spread over a huge area, one part highly salubrious with houses having their own moorings on man made canals.  Very much like Port Grimaud in the South of France.  Don and Joyce Skirrow live here and they phoned us up earlier in the year when they read our swap letter.  They come from Yorkshire and although not in a position to swap they ask us to visit for a chat.  In their mid 70’s they are real characters and now travel with a 4WD basic campervan.  Enjoy local fish and chips and an evening of travel talk.  
MANDURAH

Wednesday 17 November  Leave after breakfast accompanied by light rain.  As we reach Rockingham the rain has stopped and the sun is fighting it’s way through the clouds.  Check out Warnbro nudist beach which has lovely fine sand, clean sea and possibilities for us to free camp in the car park.  The beach runs all around the coast to Point Peron where we stop for lunch.  The war lookout is here and gives us a superb view all around and over Garden Island with the Navy base.  Rockingham centre is most attractive with an esplanade which has BBQ’s, toilets, showers, playgrounds and picnic benches.  A real holiday feel to the place.  End up at the huge shopping mall before heading to Waikiki area to visit Geoff & Mavis Marsh an English couple from Cheshire whom we first met when driving through the centre.  Mavis’s Uncle Ron is visiting from England.  In his 80’s he goes out each morning for a swim followed by a walk until late afternoon.  Stay for a BBQ in the evening and spend the night on their drive.
ROCKINGHAM, GEOFF & MAVIS’S

Thursday 18 November   Breakfast is prepared for us yet again – we are being spoilt at the moment.  Mavis says they would like to do a swap with us in the future but as they only have a basic caravan it would not suit our needs.  If  we visit Western Australia again we would want a 4WD to enable us to explore the alternative roads.  She also says that if we want to rent their home at any stage for a nominal fee it would suit them as they don’t like to leave it empty when they go away.  Out to Warnbro beach where we stay on the beach until early afternoon when it starts to cloud over and the "Fremantle Doctor" wind starts up.  Ten pin bowling is fun $19.80 (£8.00) – Steve gets 159, 193, 166 and I score 113,158, 126.  Back to Warnbro car park for overnight.
ROCKINGHAM 2, WARNBRO BEACH

Friday 19 November  Gerry & Anne are now camped with friends at Armadale but phone us to see if they could join us for their first visit to a nudist beach.  Enjoy sunbathing and power walking the 900m  beach before lunch.  Afternoon boules completes the exercise programme and a seagull joins in by trying to take the jack mistaking it for food!  Fred’s daughter Angela phones and we hear that Fred and Maureen are now having a week in Singapore and not arriving back until 10th December.  Sadly this means we won’t get chance to meet them again.
ROCKINGHAM 3, WARNBRO BEACH 2

Saturday 20 November  Hear a few squealing car noises in the night but fortunately no one comes onto the car park.  During breakfast a car arrives and a man asks us if we saw anything last night as his wife’s car was stolen and joy riders had crashed it in the next street.  On the beach before 9.00am and again the dolphins swim past as we are walking along.  Leave the beach at 12.30 to head into town for the Rockingham Spring Festival.  A lot of new housing development here.  In Australia you buy the plot of land and then buy a package designed house from another company.   On the estates plots are relatively small and nearly everyone builds a bungalow taking up almost all the land.  Apparently Australians are not bothered about having big gardens as there are so many recreation areas with BBQ’s which they can use.  Occasionally we spot a magnificent 2 story designer house in amongst the run of the mill ones.  Here plots near the beach start at $35,000 (£14,000) and a nice 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom bungalow would be around $60,000 (£24,000) – very cheap by our standards.  Anyway I’m loosing the plot so back to the Festival.  Lots of stands on the oval and a sky diving display.  We both do stress and health checks with excellent results.  Everyone congregates on the esplanade for the evening fireworks.  The place is heaving with families using the free BBQ’s, bringing their own picnic or take away.  The naval band plays jazz music and at 8.00pm the fireworks start.  Reckon we would be safer parked somewhere else tonight and I suggest the car park by the Police station but instead we drive out to Point Peron and park by the Naval Club for the night.  It is well lit and there are just a couple of cars left when we settle to bed.
ROCKINGHAM 4, POINT PERON NR NAVAL CLUB

Sunday 21 November  Wake to find the car park full of cars with trailers.  They have already launched their boats and it is only 7.00am.  Pick up a newspaper and find that there were riots in Rockingham last night with 200 youths storming the Police station!  Back to the beach until mid afternoon.  Stay up late watching "Twister" and listening the wind building up around the van!
ROCKINGHAM 5, WARNBRO BEACH

Monday 22 November  Another morning on the beach joined later by Gerry & Anne.  Lunch in the van then round to Safety Bay for a shower and to sit on the grass.  The beach becomes intolerable when the wind starts as the sand is very fine and the wind swirls it around.  Pick up 2 large pizzas at Dominoes $10 (£4) on the way back to Warnbro car park.  Chat and play cards until late.  Gerry and Anne leave me a birthday card and a packet of Tim Tams plus a big bar of Cadbury’s chocolate – they’ve soon got to know me!
ROCKINGHAM 6, WARNBRO BEACH

Tuesday 23 November  Call at the petrol station for gas and find an Internet coin operated machine.  Mum writes to tell us that Fred & Maureen have been to see her and she has shown them our photos.  Heading North towards Perth we check out Cable Water Ski park but the swimming pool and slides are poor.  Adventure World is nearby and for $25 (£10) we have unlimited use of the rides and water park.  Not up to Alton Towers standard but good value for money and perfect on a hot day.  Almost no queues and we go on lots of dry rides before checking out the water park area.  Tunnel of Terror is great with two people sharing a tube for a dark ride.  There is also a mini zoo and as the only people for the 1.30pm Koala bear feeding we get invited into the compound to take close up pictures.  Leave at 4.30pm and realise we are close to Lesley & John’s so decide to call on them rather than phone up.  Although Lesley has a friend staying for tea they insist we join them for a BBQ.  I seem to be suffering badly with hay fever, my eyes are streaming and my head throbbing.  Park in the Morris Buzacott Reserve but don’t sleep well.  A Security Car calls round but doesn’t disturb us.
PERTH, MORRIS BUZACOTT RESERVE

Wednesday 24 November    I wake up tired and cranky which is not helped by the battery problem re surfacing.   Heated debate about what to do and we finally head to the nearest caravan park at Jandakot.  No good as there is no pool and only one very shady site left.  Out to a couple more sites on the coast and eventually to Woodman Point caravan park $18  (£7.20).  Start by cleaning the outside of the van as we are calling at Fred’s daughter on Sunday and although we intend giving the van a thorough clean before returning it we want it to look reasonable when we go round.  Temperatures of 36C are predicted today and Steve takes his first swim in the pool by 10.00am whilst I slave away doing the washing.  Each time we speak we rub each other up the wrong way so we resort to silence.  I swim mid afternoon and hear that the temperature was 35C at noon, now the wind is appreciated.
PERTH, WOODMAN POINT CARAVAN PARK

Thursday 25 November  Drive into Perth for my 10.30 hair appointment at Setting Trends owned by  John & Lesley’s daughters Kelli & Rebecca.  Riverton is a suburb and the salon in a small shopping centre.  Rebecca does a good job producing a style that doesn’t need blow drying, doesn’t need much attention and doesn’t need a regular trim and no I didn’t end up with my head shaved but a sort of short layered bob.  Next we planned to visit Lesley at the warehouse but when we phone she is at home sick.  Sit in the van revising our plans and saying we would love to see Patrick and Sharyn.  I say that we should find an Internet cafe to send them a message.  I suddenly begin to shout and scream and Steve thinks there has been a road accident.  In reality I have just spotted Patrick going past on the recumbent trike!  Just how small a world and how much of a coincidence can that be?  Sharyn follows and once we are over the shock we retire to the van for lunch.  They have family living near here and were out for a ride.  Nice to have fellow travellers to chat to as most of our talk wouldn’t appeal to "normal" people.  Arrange to meet over the weekend.  Can’t decide what to do now and this just causes arguments.  Not a problem when we are on the road with no deadlines.  It all revolves around us having to be in certain places all over Perth at certain times and knowing where to go in the interim. Guess we have got used to being free spirits.  Out to Midland to check out the car wreckers as we need a door catch to replace the one ripped off in the wind – no luck.  Park in nearby John Forrest national park where the ranger says we can stay overnight.  Can’t understand why I have had almost continuous headaches and sinus problems for over 2 years but I can confirm that when I get uptight they are much worse!  Steve says I should see someone about it but that is much easier said than done – another cue for a row!
PERTH, MIDLAND, JOHN FORREST NATIONAL PARK

Friday 26 November  Arrive at Sunseekers Club at 8.30am and we are stripped off and in the swing of things by 8.35am.  Geoff & Wendy have been travelling for 2 years and shipped their motorhome from New Zealand.  They lend us lots of books and offer us advice.  Having arranged to meet Sharyn and Patrick tomorrow night for a dinner dance we now also get offers to go to a party at friends of Bob & Noreen and another invite to join everyone for a meal at the club!  I chat to Fred & Pat and Banjo & Gwen whom we last met in Broome whilst Steve has made himself scarce!  Enjoy watching "Sound of Music" on TV in the evening as we visited Salzburg in May 98 and recognise many scenes.
PERTH, SUNSEEKERS CLUB

Saturday 27 November   A perfect hot day for being here and it’s hard to dress to leave in the evening.  Driving out to Caversham we pass dozens of magnificent Jacaranda trees full of lilac blossom which looks almost luminous in the dusk.  Mulberry Farm is quite posh and the car park full when we arrive.  Originally a vineyard on the Swan River they have now diversified into a restaurant and cruises and it is a very popular spot for weddings.  Sharyn & Patrick are waiting for us and we all pass comment on how well we scrub up and how different we look dressed up smart!  $60 (£24) for an umpteen course smorgasbord, all wine, beer and soft drinks followed by a band to dance to.  Companies are here on their Christmas outing and it reminds of very much of pre Christmas do’s in England.  Everything is first class and we all unwind and have a great time.  We look out onto the lawns leading down to the river where the summer house and trees are floodlit and some tress have fairy lights in them.  The Christmas tree and decorations are inside and Father Christmas even comes round.  The party ends at midnight and we overnight on the car park.
PERTH, SWAN RIVER, MULBERRY FARM

Sunday 28 November  Wake up as the car park is filling with guests for the Sunday breakfast.  Drive back to the coast to meet Fred’s daughter Angela and family.  Arrive early and walk along Hillarys beach which by 10.00 on this glorious morning is heaving.  Walk back behind the dunes where a grassy area is also busy with people cooking on the BBQ’s.  Sorrento Quay is also packed out with people browsing in the boutiques or having breakfast and coffee.  It’s good to see Angela, husband Dudley and children Emma and Samuel again.  Angela and the children went to visit Fred and Maureen in Spain in September so we get to hear a bit about the trip.  Time for the final settling up on van expenses which all goes very smoothly.  Like us Fred has also been jinxed with battery problems.  He took Charlie back to Peter for most of the work and other small jobs and we will be billed when we get back.  They have also had a brilliant time but comment that at times the van has seemed a bit too big – reckon it is not difficult to find the narrow streets especially in France.  Angela says they are now thinking of doing a swap in USA so they must be as pleased as us with the concept.  Back to Perth city centre where we are booked on the paddle steamer "Decoy" afternoon jazz cruise on which our friend Banjo plays.  $15 (£6) seems very reasonable for a 3 hour relaxing cruise towards Fremantle.  The trio come round and play in front of you and Banjo gets the band playing the "Grandma" song for me.  We really feel like tourists on holiday at the moment!  Just getting back in the van when a cyclist comes up to us and says he recognises the van.  He was parked next to us on 19th September at the lakes near Tom Price.  Drive the short way round to Burswood Casino and Hotel.  Owned by the Japanese it is American style and very luxurious.   The casino is like Vegas but lacking in some of the atmosphere despite being very busy.  The hotel is wonderful and we enjoy a ride in the "Guest only" very fast glass elevators.  Hope to come back in the week when it is a bit quieter and they have some special package deals for the casino.  Park en route to Midland at Garvey Park which is a picnic spot on the banks of the Swan River.
PERTH, GARVEY PARK

Monday 29 November    Walk around admiring the area we are parked in by the Ascot Rowing Club.  A man is parked in a car and recognises us.  Last Wednesday we chatted to him on Warnbro Beach.  He works near here at the airport and having started at 4.00am he came out here for a rest.  Australia may be one of the biggest and least densely populated places but it is a great place for bumping into people.  Call into Midland for shopping then meet Gerry & Anne to take them out to Sunseekers Club.  Another hot start to the day with clouds closing in late afternoon.  Geoff & Wendy show us a video "Nude Zealand" in which they are featured and also some of the people and places we plane to visit.  Gerry & Anne stay for tea and we are so much enjoying ourselves that we suddenly look out and see that every where is dark.  We need a key to let Gerry & Anne out and Steve rushes out to find someone with a light on!  Actually it is only 9.30pm but as I mentioned before Australians seem to like to go to bed and get up early. 
PERTH, SUNSEEKERS CLUB

Tuesday 30 November  Intermittent cloudy day with very hot spells in between.  Perfect for sunbathing but not long enough to burn and gaps in which to do a few odd jobs.  Borrow the club video player to watch a Lonely Planet tape on South East Australia.  Crack up laughing when Ian Wright shows how Aussies use Tim Tam biscuits like a straw.  Also watch the partly filled home video tape and again are disappointed that we don’t have the facility to edit it and tidy it up but at the end of the day it will always be a good memory for us of our trip down under.  Hover on the fast forward button anyone who watches it!
PERTH, SUNSEEKERS CLUB 2